Broadhead tuning

[Bcoonce117]

At 60 I’m high and right. 8” high and 8” right. Do you guys move your sights and just be sighted for broadheads only? Or would I move my rest down a little and left a little and shoot to check

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I would try to tune the bow to get broadheads and field points hitting together. There are several different things you could adjust on the bow to accomplish this, but some require a bow press. If you choose to tune by moving the rest, conventional wisdom for fixing a high/right broadhead would be to lower the rest and move it to the right.

 

[Bcoonce117]

I would try to tune the bow to get broadheads and field points hitting together. There are several different things you could adjust on the bow to accomplish this, but some require a bow press. If you choose to tune by moving the rest, conventional wisdom for fixing a high/right broadhead would be to lower the rest and move it to the right.
View attachment 439126
View attachment 439127

As far as paper tuning, I was getting a perfect bullet hole. I paper tuned with field points though.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

As far as paper tuning, I was getting a perfect bullet hole. I paper tuned with field points though.

Paper tuning is okay as an initial step, but broadheads hitting with field points is your ultimate goal. It's not uncommon to get bullet holes through paper then still need to make adjustments when you move on to bareshaft and/or broadhead tuning.

 

[Bcoonce117]

Paper tuning is okay as an initial step, but broadheads hitting with field points is your ultimate goal. It's not uncommon to get bullet holes through paper then still need to make adjustments when you move on to bareshaft and/or broadhead tuning.

ok also I didn’t realize that to make my arrow go left I still move my rest right, I thought you were supposed to move it the direction you want the arrow to go. From my understanding it doesn’t take much adjustment

 

[nettereo16]

ok also I didn’t realize that to make my arrow go left I still move my rest right, I thought you were supposed to move it the direction you want the arrow to go. From my understanding it doesn’t take much adjustment

Yeah, I always get confused by this one as well. But go off the gold tip chart and move the rest TINY increments. It works !

 

[Bcoonce117]

Yeah, I always get confused by this one as well. But go off the gold tip chart and move the rest TINY increments. It works !

Copy. Going to do that today. My rest has the micro click adjustments or whatever it’s called…. so should be pretty simple I’m hoping at least lol

 

[5MilesBack]

Small adjustments show up quickly at 60 yards. That's why I BH tune at 60. It shouldn't take much to get the two together. Also check your fletching.......what you're using (make sure you have enough drag for the BH's you're using, and for contact.

 

[BigSky]

There's some good information already. Moving your sights is a band aid because it does not correct for errant flight.

 

[Patriot2]

I was 5-6" right at 50 yds with broadheads. Using a dual micrometer I moved the rest left 0.005 ( 5 one-thousandths) of an inch and they were hitting just like the field points. "Move the broadhead, or bare shaft, TO the field point" my bow technician says. It works. He also said ALWAYS correct up/down first, side-to-side last. I don't have micro-adjust so the dial micrometer was kind of a necessity.

 

[MattB]

As far as paper tuning, I was getting a perfect bullet hole. I paper tuned with field points though.

Paper tuning is a good place to start but not the end of the process.

 

[Bcoonce117]

Small adjustments show up quickly at 60 yards. That's why I BH tune at 60. It shouldn't take much to get the two together. Also check your fletching.......what you're using (make sure you have enough drag for the BH's you're using, and for contact.

Using aae max stealth 4 fletch. And only reason I asked about moving sight is because that’s what the bow shop told me to do. But I hear read about broadhead tuning already. Figured I’d come here and see who was right lol

 

[KBC]

Aren’t you supposed to follow the BH with the rest? A high and right BH indicates a low and left tear.

 

[Buffalomtn]

Aren’t you supposed to follow the BH with the rest? A high and right BH indicates a low and left tear.

If BH hit high, lower rest. If BH hits left, move rest left. Most recommend getting the vertical correct first, then fix right/left

 

[SlimTim]

What am I missing?

BH hits high, lower rest. Makes sense.

BH hits left (or right), move rest left (or right)? Won't this make the problem worse as the arrow is pointing further left (or right) as it is shot?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

BH hits left (or right), move rest left (or right)? Won't this make the problem worse as the arrow is pointing further left (or right) as it is shot?

The recommended rest windage adjustments for left-right tuning always seemed counterintuitive to me as well until I watched a video in the Bow Shop Bible app that shows what's going on in slow motion. I attempted to explain what the video shows here, but the video itself is worth a million words (and the price of the app).

 

[Coveyleader]

I was shooting great, tuned a bit more today, and ended up being an "All Dayer" jesus. I should have just left it! Shooting ok now, BHs soon but I'm hoping not much to move, bare shafts and fletched breaking knocks now, but man, sight picture is a bit different.

Good luck, and follow that Tim G. chart above and you should be good.

Edit...... Had to shoot one BH, looks good! Hang in there follow the chart above you'll get there.

 

[KBC]

I’ve found I skip a lot of work if I get a decent hole in paper with a bare shaft I just go straight to broad head tuning. If you bareshaft tune you have to go through the whole process and then usually have to make some more changes when you go to broad heads.

Why not just go through the process once with broadheads? You’re never going to shoot a bareshaft at anything but a target.

 

[Coveyleader]

I’ve found I skip a lot of work if I get a decent hole in paper with a bare shaft I just go straight to broad head tuning. If you bareshaft tune you have to go through the whole process and then usually have to make some more changes when you go to broad heads.

Why not just go through the process once with broadheads? You’re never going to shoot a bareshaft at anything but a target.

No doubt I agree. I'd say the only drawback if there is one, is you're could be shooting alot of BHs tearing up the target.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Why not just go through the process once with broadheads? You’re never going to shoot a bareshaft at anything but a target.

I think some folks prefer bareshaft tuning because it can be done with a bag target and/or because broadheads chew up foam targets more quickly. But I don't disagree...broadhead tuning needs to be the final step and there's no harm in skipping the other tuning methods.