BROADHEAD TUNING... STUMPED

[BowhuntingBrune3]

As the title says I have been trying to tune my Kudu 125 grain broadheads and they are kicking my butt. I am shooting a Matthews Chill X 29.5" draw 71 pounds, shooting a deep impact 300 spine cut to 28.5. I can get them to group out to 50 but that is it at 60 they are hitting low left, any suggestions? I like to have broadheads and field points to hit same poi out to 60 min. so I am almost there but I can't squeeze out 60 at all. Just took my bow to the shop and they said it was timed perfectly and were shooting bullet holes so I am at a loss.

 

[Ucsdryder]

How far low is it hitting? At some point you’ll start seeing it hit low from surface drag.

 

[5MilesBack]

Do you have any other BH's to try and see if they'll tune up at 60? I recently had my bare shafts left of fletched at 20 (about a 2" nock right), BH's were perfect at 20 and 40 but were 5-6" consistently right of FP's at 60. I ended up having to move my rest to the left to fix it all. Now BS's are good at 20 and BH's are all good out to 60.

 

[BowhuntingBrune3]

6" LOW 6" LEFT like a dummy i went all in on these broadheads after seeing the reviews and sold my slick tricks.

 

[Billy Goat]

Micro adjust rest?

How are you tuning?

I'd adjust your rest height or your nocking point. Bring your nocking point down or your rest up slightly to start. Then see where you are left and right. If your nocking point is dead center of your axles I'd bring your rest up a fuzz. See what happens to the left after you get them hitting the same vertical.

Bullet holes only go so far. Still need to fine tune.

 

[bsnedeker]

I would try nudging your rest to the right just a hair and see if that improves the R/L.

6" low seems like a lot if you are hitting dead on at 50, but surface drag on BH's will cause low impacts after about 50 yards. You could try adjusting your rest up a bit, but I'd worry more about the R/L than the U/D.

 

[Ucsdryder]

I would micro adjust rest and see what that does. Search “Broadhead tuning chart” and get to work.

 

[winter]

Shoot a bareshaft at 20 or 30. Move rest up until the bareshaft hits with your fletched.

 

[nphunter]

Raise your nocking point and move your rest to the left. Move the rest up first and get them even and then fix left and right. Your left could be from something like face pressure or grip pressure, it doesn't take much to get an arrow to miss 6" at that distance.

Personally I'd skip the bareshaft, your not going to be hunting with a bare shaft anyway.

 

[BowhuntingBrune3]

Thanks for all the replies everyone I'll dive into it some more tonight.

 

[raptor16]

Sounds like you just have a little bit of fine tuning to do to me. Odds are once you get them fixed up at 60 you'll still be pretty dang close at shorter range if not better.

 

[D.Rose]

They hit at 50 but that much low left at 60? I'm not 100% sure but theres a decent chance you don't have enough vane. When the arrow starts to slow down the broadhead will start to plane and do some odd stuff. I've had set ups that would shoot a bareshaft with a fletched arrow at 30 yards and still would not shoot some broadheads that I thought it should have. If you're hitting dead on 20-50 I don't think it's a tuning issue. Add another vane and go 4 fletch or fletch up an arrow with a some big 4 inch vanes and see what that does for you.

 

[renagde]

Could be underspined. You could try moving to 100 grain broadheads, or try getting a 250 grain arrow fletched up to see how that does. Or start cutting down your arrows.

 

[dkime]

6" LOW 6" LEFT like a dummy i went all in on these broadheads after seeing the reviews and sold my slick tricks.

Therein lies your mistake lol, In all seriousness, there has to be a trend at 50 as well, it may not be nearly as noticeable but 10yds is not enough for a 6" shift to suddenly occur. I always plot my impact points on an archery app on my phone to make my results completely objective. It doesn't matter if my broadhead impacts an inch right at 50yds, IF it is consistently impacting to that side then I know there is a problem that needs addressed. You're shooting at a distance where bareshaft tuning and paper tuning really aren't going to help you, make 1/32" rest adjustments and record the data. Hang a piece of rope up and do some vertical and horizontal line tuning and see if that gets you where you need to be.

 

[87TT]

I find that a lot of times it is me not the bow, arrow or broadhead. Sometimes I am just trying too hard. It only takes a little to throw your form off. I have found myself slightly pulling the string against my nose as I try to hold steady on a far target will cause me to hit consistently low. I also shoot Kudus. I learned not to mess with things on the bow until absolutely sure. As has been said, 6" in ten yards is too much.

 

[5MilesBack]

I prefer to BH tune at 60, then they're always good to go everywhere short of that as well.

 

[Gerard Marcaurele]

What grain insert are you running? Potentially you are slightly stiff on the spine. Going up 25 grains on the head weight if you’re still running standard inserts may still allow you to run 340 spine.

I ran 100 grain inserts and 100 grain heads out of a 71# 28.25” bow on 28.5” 300 spine arrows and they were just right.

Not saying that’s for sure the issue, but if you have any 340’s laying around give them a try and see if that left miss cleans up. As far as the low, I couldn’t get fixed blades from dropping out past 50 (they’d be 1” low or so). That’s just a product of drag.

 

[Beendare]

Tuning is pretty simple really;
When I first get a bow, I typically set it up on a draw board before I get to the FP paper tune or BH tuning stage, then I mark the cams. [this makes it easier to get back to perfect when you replace strings]
I set center shot at factory recommended setting.

I paper tune with FP's for a bullet hole.....then shoot FP's and BH's for groups at long range. If my BH's don't group exactly with my FP's.....then I chase the FP group with my rest in VERY tiny increments. [like 1/64" or 1/32" adjustments] Some bows its better to yoke tune...vs chasing FP's with your rest- same result but it maintains centershot.

IF that doesn't work [assuming the arrow is perfect; it isn't underspined or assembled incorrectly] ....its either your form is inconsistent or flawed......Or its something to do with the bow itself.

It could be many things if its the bow; fletch contact, cam timing, yokes, etc. [time to check on a draw board]

I start with the easy stuff and work back...so check for fletch contact first.

Final BH tuning after the above^......Its typically just a matter of no more than 1/16" rest adjust to get BH's cutting off the fletching of my FP's at 50 yds.

_____

 

[Zac]

If this is a tuning issue you have a nock high right tear. This means your bare shaft and your broadhead are going to impact low left. To fix this you would move the rest up.(easier than moving nocking point), and to the left. You always want to move the rest towards the point and away from the fletching. If you are using yokes, you can try putting a twist into the right side, or the fletching side.