I'm all ears if anyone has any other thoughts...
You say FP's are all on with a walk back, but have you tried a walk back and adjusted with the Slick Tricks?
What are both arrows looking like at 60 yards? 70? How far off are the BH arrows, and where is the impact in relation to the FP's?
What fletching are you using?
Throwing extra wings on the front of the arrow exemplifies and compounds everything, and will show you immediately if there's a problem with your setup......just as it's doing. And the further distance you shoot, the more it will show you that. That's why I start at 60 for tuning. You should still be able to tune adequately with an over-spined arrow. What rest are you using?
In your current situation you are far better off just shooting the mechanical heads and not worrying about this.
Arrow spine gets a lot of press. In 30+ years of shooting bows I have never had a tuning issue trace back to arrow spine. Arrows that are clearly too weak for your set up would be a problem. Stiff arrows should never be a problem. Groups with FP's tell you nothing about the tune of your bow. They also tell you nothing about your form. Fixed blade broadheads or bareshafts will tell you about both form and tune.
If your broadheads aren't flying correctly then you have a form/tune issue, likely both.
have you shot bare shafts? Im no pro tuner but checking bare shafts and getting them to fly straight out of the bow with fleched arrows has made broadhead flight a non issue.
Helical or offset on your vanes to impart spin to the arrow? Straight fletch parallel to the shaft can give really poor results with fixed blade heads in my experience.
Also, just go hunt hunt with your Spitfires if they shoot good. A bunch of really succesful BC bowhunters I know shoot everything with them......grizzlies, moose, black bears, stone sheep etc.
Note that Midway Shooters Supply had a good sale on Spitfires a few weeks ago. Really fast shipping too if you need it.
Good luck on the sheep hunt!
...... Groups with FP's tell you nothing about the tune of your bow. They also tell you nothing about your form. Fixed blade broadheads or bareshafts will tell you about both form and tune.
If your broadheads aren't flying correctly then you have a form/tune issue, likely both.
I agree on both. I shot the Hypodermics this morning and they fly well; and also believe that I should be able to tune being over splined. I've hunted all over the globe with my bow for the better part of 25 years and always shot super super heavy and definitely over splined arrows without any tuning issues. This is my first trip and newer bow in about 5-6 years, so maybe this set-up isn't as forgiving as I was accustomed to all these years. I'm not sure. I've taken my fair share of game with a bow well over 100 yards before I had to hang it up and get a real job - so I'm fairly confident in my form and tuning ability, but will admit when I don't know something - hence why I'm asking here and with my pro-shop friends. Just never seen anything quite like this. I have noticed that this Mathews is much more finicky with grip than any of my Hoyt's ever were, but I've coached myself to be very cognizant of that when shooting.
A couple other things........first I'd check the timing on your QAD to ensure you're not getting any fletching contact. You can use the high speed camera on an Iphone 6 or similar, or use lipstick on your vanes and check your rest prongs. I like the high speed camera. You can slow it down and actually see your rest in the down position before your fletching gets to it. It's pretty cool.
Second.....a couple years ago I had a bow perfectly bare shaft tuned and although arrows seemed fine at 20, 30, and 40 yards on target, my 3D scores were lower than they've ever been. And my long range groups were pitiful, worst ever. At a 3D shoot I started noticing a tail whip on some of the targets that had a good backdrop to see that sort of thing. I normally never see my arrows.
After that, I came home and did a broadhead tune at 60 yards. My Bh's were 12" right of FP's. I adjusted my rest until I had both smacking the bullseye. Immediately my shooting returned to "my normal", and this year my 3D scores are back up where they should be.
Also, do you have any lighted nocks laying around. I don't like their fit on my string (too tight) but I do like using them to watch my arrow flight down range and see what they're doing. The light shows very well any tail whip, porpoising, barrel rolling, etc.
Do tell.
Do tell what? Shot tons of caribou and quite a few antelope at 100+. At the time I was trying to complete my super slam with a bow, and get it done before I was 30. I'd taken most with both gun and bow. I'm just lacking 3 of the 4 sheep with my bow and a musk ox to have it done. I had to quit hunting when the recession hit - hence the real job. Been on several stone and bighorn hunts with no luck - so I'm hoping to get my bighorn on this trip!!
Do tell what? Shot tons of caribou and quite a few antelope at 100+. At the time I was trying to complete my super slam with a bow, and get it done before I was 30. I'd taken most with both gun and bow. I'm just lacking 3 of the 4 sheep with my bow and a musk ox to have it done. I had to quit hunting when the recession hit - hence the real job. Been on several stone and bighorn hunts with no luck - so I'm hoping to get my bighorn on this trip!!
Why not shoot the spitfire that goes where it is supposed too?
100 yard shots as a matter of routine? I don't doubt your ability but you make it sound like its just a matter of course.
Excellent archer or not, there's a lot that comes into play stretching it out that far on a live animal. I was simply interested in more elaboration on that statement. I am genuinely interested in the subject itself.