Broadhead for elk

jchal3

FNG
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Oct 31, 2015
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I'm a Kentucky boy who has never hunted out west. All of my experience comes from bowhunting whitetails. After this season it will be time to upgrade my broadheads. I have been shooting G5 Havocs. They fly well for me, and have left good blood trails for me, but they wont reset now for some reason. The blades hang loose even after replacing the retention rings. Anyway, there is talk of a Utah elk bowhunt next year, and I thought I would get some input on broadheads for elk before I bought any.

I know there may be a lot of fanboy answers, but the main thing I'm wanting to know is mechanical or fixed blade.

Thanks

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A stout fixed blade head from 1 to 1.25 cutting diameter in front of an arrow that is 450 to 550 grains total weight will serve you very well for elk.
 
Don't know about Utah but I hunt Idaho regularly and mechanicals aren't legal. Me personally, I only use mechanicals on turkeys. I prefer a fixed blade for elk. I've shot Slick Tricks and German Kinetics with success. I would use a good fixed blade that tunes and shoots well out of your bow.
 
Thank you....I was told not to worry too much about shooting distance..most shots are under 15yrds? Is that bs?.. how far are the shots usually. I'm currently very comfortable out to 40, but with a year to practice I'm sure I could stretch that

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Some are, but certainly not most. I'm not the archery elk guru here but the early advice i got was that I "needed to be comfortable out to 60", and I still think that is good advice for a beginner. Train for shots out well past that (80-110ish). Now I'm comfortable out to 80 in perfect conditions and that gives lots of options.

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Thanks, that's kind of what I figured but wanted to check. First step is gonna be finding some broadheads that will tune...

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Also, tons of great BH out there. You'll get a million answers on "the best" but they are all good.

Like posted above, I'd worry more over your total arrow weight than the BH. 440 is probably a good minimum weight. I'm now at 496 now.

(For the record, i was shooting the grave digger COC hybrids and was happy with them. Switched to a fixed head (Valkyrie) earlier this year for Idaho and haven't looked back. But again, just pick a BH you like with a good cutting diameter that flies well for you and go hunt.)

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Yep, the flight and cut diameter is what counts...wont be hard to get the arrow weight..I shoot Easton fmjs.

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My farthest shot was 38 yards on a stationary, calm, 6 point bull. I practice to 60 daily and a couple of times a week I shoot 80. I personally wouldn't take a shot over 40 on an animal but I feel confident on my abilities out to 60, which makes a 30 yard shot very comfortable and truly second nature.

I would also get very comfortable with a range finder. Western distances and the size of an elk, really mess up distance estimation for us whitetail hunters.
 
I've had great luck with Ramcats, both the single bevel and diamondbacks. I was skeptical at first and thought the guy at the shop was trying to get rid of some garbage he couldn't sell but I am now a believer. I am currently shooting diamondbacks because I can practice without retightening the allen bolts every shot and the blades don't sweep back like the single bevels. They shoot absolutely great and penetrate incredibly well. I would also say be prepared to shoot 40 yards at least, further is better, but be honest about your abilities. I shoot all year and my max is my 70 yard pins plus a couple yards on hold over. This year my bull was 72, two years ago 53, three years ago 43. The distance depends on where you hunt too. I hunt open country for the most part so my shots are probably a little longer on average than guys who call/hunt in thicker timber.
 
Ha good advice....makes total sense. Didn't think of that.

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This may be dumb, but do you guys take a second bow in case something happens to one of them. And if so, do you practice with them equally?

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Thanks, that's kind of what I figured but wanted to check. First step is gonna be finding some broadheads that will tune...

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Tune your bow not your broadhead. If your bow is properly tuned, it will shoot and head. I’m loving the Iron Will V100. Solid head, flies great and good customer service.
 
Of course Haha... maybe that's been my problem haha...

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I've used all sorts of broadheads over the years, but never have used an expandable so I have no valid input there. I value a "true" cut on contact broadhead more and more these days. They just work on elk.

For me, using a bow that doesn't have a ton of energy they have allowed me to shoot them at varying angles and I still get good penetration which is the name of the game on elk.

If you're shooting an arrow with decent weight, pretty fast, good energy, you can get away with Muzzy/Slick trick type heads without an issue.

My furthest shot on an elk is 33 yds and the majority have been sub 20 yds. This years cow and bull had a combined distance of less than 20 yds.

Lastly, just make sure you hit them good. They are the last animal you really want to "track". You have experience with Whitetails, so you know how tough they are on iffy shots. Elk are just as tough but bigger and live in rougher country. Don't give them a chance to show their toughness. Hit them solid, tight to the shoulder, and watch them fold.

It's the best feeling to simply walk over to them seconds after the shot.
 
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I keep it simple with Standard 100gr Slick Tricks. Even with my 62# and meager 26.5" draw length, they work great for deer and elk.
 
Thanks for all the input guys.

My bow setup us 68#s at a 28.5" draw.

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When travelling out of state, I do have a "back-up" bow with me. While it isn't the same bow, it is set up exactly the same. I can switch between them and not have to look and see which bow I have in my hand. I'm shooting a 60# bow set @28.5" draw. I prefer Easton ACC's or Axis Nanos. I shoot my arrows cut to 29". As has been said, if your bow is tuned well, it will shoot most any broadhead.

It's just so much fun getting ready for a dreamed about hunt!
 
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