Broad head tuning help

[archp625]

Need help!!!

I just received some 125 grain Sevr 2.0 heads. I weighed the Sevr’s and my field points, to make sure they are both 125 grain. I shot a 3 shot group with my field points and looked good at 30 yards. Shot a Sevr 2.0 in practice mode and 4” high. So I adjusted my rest a little lower. Re did & re did & re did until my QAD pretty much hits the shelf. Best I could get was 4”. To me this isn’t good enough.

What are my next steps?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I would move the rest (and nocking point location if necessary) to get the arrow running level through the Berger hole. Then adjust cam timing so both draw stops are hitting at the same time. Then compare broadheads vs. field points again and make adjustments per the charts below.

Also put the arrows with broadheads on a spinner to check for wobble.

 

[KyleR1985]

If you’re seeing a difference in impact between field points and mechanical heads, I think you’ve got some general tuning to do.

I can’t say I’ve ever tuned my bow, and didn’t have mechanicals hitting with field points out to 60 yards with no adjustment.

It’s the point of the heads.

that said - get bow in spec, timed, rest set at rec center shot, nock level or slightly nock high with arrow in Berger hole.

I like to bareshaft through paper at 5 yards from there. Get something close to a good tear. Turn nocks to get all arrows tearing the least and the same direction if any. Fletch em. Shoot broadheads and field points at 30 to confirm I’m close, then step back to 60. Any minor adjustment needed in tune will show up easily here. Most times it’s a tiny rest adjustment to bring them together.

 

[Beendare]

C&P of my process;


Heres a flow chart of what I do;





1) Make sure you aren't under spined...or even close to under spined. This is the #1 reason many guys can't get their setup to shoot BH's to the same POI as FP's.



2) Form Flaws; many guys have alignment issues that cause erratic shooting or inconsistent results. Example; Even a tiny grip adjustment can make my arrows go from shooting a bullet hole in paper to a 1" tear. Check you're alignment.



3) confirm you are shooting perfectly straight arrows. Just spinning them on a table isn't enough- use a jig to confirm perfect straightness and perfect BH seating. A couple one thousandths off in 1 1/2" of your BH on the steering end of your arrow makes a big difference and it isn't always visible when spinning.



BOW WISE



4) Confirm on a draw board your cams are tuned right- rolling over perfect [some bows like one cam slightly advanced for a better tune, many don't]



5) Set your rest to factory spec center shot...and confirm you don't have any fletching contact to throw the arrow off



NOTE; When a BH tipped arrow won't group with FP's that tells you that the arrow isn't coming out of the bow perfectly straight- the BH is causing it to plane a tiny bit [even Mech heads will do this] Many times its an under spined condition exacerbating this...or improper arrow assembly- see #3 above



Once the above is accomplished;



I paper test FP's for a bullet hole at 3,6,12 yards...moving my rest IN TINY 1/32" adjustments the opposite of where the point is on the tear. If you are not getting consistent tears [even when not adjusted for a bullet hole- then look in the mirror- grin- its probably form related. Tiny grip adjustments...or videoing your shooting help diagnose the issue.





Once I have a bullet hole with FP's....thats the 1/2 way point of tuning for a bowhunter



I move on to BH tuning.....shooting groups of BH's and FP's at longer range 40,50 yds or more.



When BH tuning....I chase the FP with my rest. So if my BH's are left of my FP's, I move the rest a 32nd to the right.



I'VE NEVER HAD TO MOVE MY REST MORE THAN 1/16" ONCE ITS PAPER TUNED TO GET BH'S TO FLY PERFECT.





This is a critical statement^. If you are chasing your FP's and the rest is getting further and further away from factory recommended center shot- STOP. Assuming you did everything above correctly to this point...then here is what happened; You overshot with your paper tune adjustment. Continuing to move in the FP direction is the wrong way.



What many don't realize; Paper tuning only gets you close and SOMETIMES YOU OVER SHOOT with your adjustments. I've had it happen to me, when I move my rest to chase my FP arrows....and keep moving and moving...and its still doesn't tune. The reason for that is I over shot it when paper tuning. When I go back to my initial setting and move it the OPPOSITE of chasing my FP's- BAM, my BH's group with my FP's. Key is tiny adjustments....and if you go past that 1/6" inch or so from factory....you more than likely need to go the other way.



I've never had a bow I couldn't BH tune....or multiple large fixed heads of the same weight that won't fly in multiple compound bows. Anyone saying it cannot be done -plain and simple- has not followed the guide above.



An over spined arrow works fine in a compound bow [one spine size over] whereas under spined or borderline arrows are much more critical. If you have to use a tiny low profile BH to get your bow to tune; your arrow spine or form is suspect.



Personally, it gives me confidence to know that every BH arrow flies perfect and will hit where I’m aiming if I do my job. For that reason I use a system consisting of a strong Cut on Contact resharpen-able BH that I can shoot and check each one making sure it flies perfect [no guesswork] …then I touch it up razor sharp and in my quiver. I can’t do that with some replaceable blade or mech heads. NEWS FLASH- you cannot just screw a BH on and assume it flies like your FP's unless you go through the steps. I'm shooting multiple 150gr BH's in my compound and recurve- all shoot to the same POI as my FP's at 50 yds. Reason it works; I'm shooting an overspined arrow [one size up] thats avg weight [500gr] so its not a critical setup like some of the fast and light setups out there.

 

[archp625]

Wow is all I can say. Thanks everyone for the feedback. Much appreciated. I took my bow to the shop this morning and they gave me 2 hours of their time to get things right. Cams were out of sync and rest needed to be adjusted. They let me shoot through paper to make sure everything was good. Then I shot some arrows with both heads. All is good now.

I’m thinking my strings settled after 9 months of shooting.

 

[KyleR1985]

Thanks for the feedback! Always good to hear what fixed problems.

Too many fellers come on here for help, get it, and never tell the next guy what worked!

 

[archp625]

Thanks for the feedback! Always good to hear what fixed problems.

Too many fellers come on here for help, get it, and never tell the next guy what worked!

Agree. This place has helped me a ton. I just got back into archery last year from a 10 year hiatus. Lots to learn. It’s amazing I was able to shoot a few whitetails in college with the lack of knowledge I had. I guess I was lucky Mike Carter lives in my back yard.

 

[Beendare]

Good news.

Now mark the cams and note every measurement while that bow is tuned so that you can reference it in the future and bring back to spec.

 

[archp625]

Good news.

Now mark the cams and note every measurement while that bow is tuned so that you can reference it in the future and bring back to spec.

Great idea. Appreciate all the help and will do.

 

[Sizthediz]

For grip flaws try adding a little pressure to the grip . This is a little test I did so I can self diagnosed what "my" problem is when I'm not shoot bullet holes. I add pressure with each of these and documented the tear. Hope it helps