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- #21
jonnyjard
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- Sep 3, 2023
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Draw length/weight?
Arrow length and spine?
Brand new VAP Victory .166 arrows, Spine aligned ,full length at 70#
Draw length/weight?
Arrow length and spine?
Brand new VAP Victory .166 arrows, Spine aligned ,full length at 70#
Victory VAP .166 sport 300 full length @ 70#Be curious to know your arrow set up.
Why full length?Victory VAP .166 sport 300 full length @ 70#
the arrow was brand new, never shot. it had a 100 grain practice tip on it, same thing i've been shooting the whole time.What is the condition of the arrow from the first time it derailed?
That arrow did have a point on it correct? I have almost done that a few times, shoot one by accident without a point. A little nock pinch with no point weight is gonna make an arrow do stupid things at the shot. I can't figure out how the back of the shaft could have smacked the rest that hard, which is what appears happened to me.
Could be arrow was damaged, then you shot it and it snapped.
Could be you are torquing the ever living shit out of the bow.
the arrow was brand new, never shot. it had a 100 grain practice tip on it, same thing i've been shooting the whole time.
the arrow was brand new, never shot. it had a 100 grain practice tip on it, same thing i've been shooting the whole time.
Long arms i guess.Why full length?
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they measured me at the shop and said i need full length. i'm going to hit up a different shop and start-over.Have you ever determined your draw length and had the bow set for that? Shooting full length arrows has me wondering... too long of a draw can cause you to torque the bow weird to get to full draw, etc.
The torquing seems to be the consensus here so i'm definitely going to focus on how im shooting after i get this all fixed and dig down into what i'm doing. But to rip the arrow rest apart and kill a brand new arrow had me questioning more than just what i'm doing.First, ditch the shop. Most of the kids working in a bow shop are no more qualified than the dorks at Cabela’s or Bass Pro…that goes for the “pro’s” and likely the owner as well. Tuning bows is not hard, it just takes a little invest of time and money but both are well spent and pay dividends in the future. Building arrows is also not hard and completely worth it.
I’m going to add yet another vote for a lot of torque. I’d also add that your draw length may be too long and you’re torquing the bow to get to full draw. Conversely, it may be too short and you’re struggling to get to your anchor point. The arrow exploding is strange to me because your arrows should be adequate for the weight of your bow. Assuming you don’t have some obnoxiously heavy insert. I’ve been an Elite guy for about 20 years. I love their bows but you do have to be cognizant of cam lean and shim the cams appropriately. If your cams were leaning (a lot) and you are torquing the bow, this could be why the string keeps coming off. It’s likely a combination of things and not just one thing in particular.
I was hoping for someone to comment on the bow, that had me pretty worked up after he was making the comments about it being cheap, and yeah compared to some of the stuff on the shelf, it was "cheaper" for sure. I've got a shop lined up now that's a little further away but i'll go get this all sorted out. Appreciate your insight on this. thank you!First, ditch the shop. Most of the kids working in a bow shop are no more qualified than the dorks at Cabela’s or Bass Pro…that goes for the “pro’s” and likely the owner as well. Tuning bows is not hard, it just takes a little invest of time and money but both are well spent and pay dividends in the future. Building arrows is also not hard and completely worth it.
I’m going to add yet another vote for a lot of torque. I’d also add that your draw length may be too long and you’re torquing the bow to get to full draw. Conversely, it may be too short and you’re struggling to get to your anchor point. The arrow exploding is strange to me because your arrows should be adequate for the weight of your bow. Assuming you don’t have some obnoxiously heavy insert. I’ve been an Elite guy for about 20 years. I love their bows but you do have to be cognizant of cam lean and shim the cams appropriately. If your cams were leaning (a lot) and you are torquing the bow, this could be why the string keeps coming off. It’s likely a combination of things and not just one thing in particular.
I would say that unless your draw length is over 30”, you do not need a full length arrow. My draw length is 28.5” and I cut my arrows to 27”, fully built from nock throat to the top of my insert, they measure 27.5” I have 2.5” of overhang, which puts my broadhead about 3/4” in front of my riser and well away from my hand. My bow has a 6.25” brace height. Not sure of the specs on your bow but I would say that a full length arrow is too long. More evidence that guys in your shop don’t know what they’re talking about. It’s easy to a “pro” these days.Long arms i guess.
they measured me at the shop and said i need full length. i'm going to hit up a different shop and start-over.
I don’t think any Elite bow is a bad bow. I haven’t bought a new bow since the Kure came out. Love it but I sold it to a buddy before I PCSd overseas. I’m still shooting a 2003 Elite Answer that I bought new in 2012 after my second deployment. I just fired off 4 dozen arrows and it shoots as good as it did the day I bought it. I have killed dozens of animals with it. Some people would probably laugh at it but I kill stuff with it.I was hoping for someone to comment on the bow, that had me pretty worked up after he was making the comments about it being cheap, and yeah compared to some of the stuff on the shelf, it was "cheaper" for sure. I've got a shop lined up now that's a little further away but i'll go get this all sorted out. Appreciate your insight on this. thank you!
The condition of the arrow from the previous incident.
I thought this was a second time.