Boot care

[Idahomnts]

New pair of zamberlan boots , jus wondering if I should condition them first or wear for a while then condition them. Also what products will void my warranty ?

 

[Bonedalien]

Following this one

 

[HardcoreHunter]

I just got a new pair of Crispis, and was wondering the same thing. Curious to hear the responses.

 

[Hunthigh1]

I like to use the obenauf's heavy duty LP on my leather boots. warm the boot up and massage into the leather. dry leather will accept several applications. No clue on warranty.

 

[elkguide]

For what you paid for a pair of very good boots, contact the company and ask them the warranty question.

 

[LASTINLINE]

if you decide to use the obenauf's heavy duty LP id use rubber gloves and a wax/ round type brush to apply. i have a helper hold a hair dryer to the boot areas as i apply. keeps the mess to a minumum. i love the smell of Obenaufs but getting it on your hands is a stinky mess.

 

[Jimbo V]

Any issues with obenaufs breaking down the glue on boots with rands?


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[realunlucky]

Jimbo I personally haven't seen it and I only use obenhaufs. I think Ross had rand separation on some boots he tested and the manufacturer blamed it on being treated by obenhaufs though.

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[Hunthigh1]

my boot has no rand but the toe cap adhesive is failing/failed. Its very unclear as to what the cause was. over use, high mileage, or obenaufs. They outrageous miles on them so i can't complain.

 

[Jason Snyder]

I would only use what the manufacturer recommends, otherwise you'll be SOL on warranty. Trust me, been there done that.

Freesole works good for rand/sole repair.


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[Frito]

I always condition my boots regardless of warranties. The only boot care products that have been known to damage leather are fat oils such as mink oil. I always let a couple of applications of Obenauf's Leather Oil to penetrate over several hours and then use the Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP as a last application. It will definitely change the color of the leather, especially nubuk or suede, but I actually like how it transforms them.

 

[realunlucky]

6 year old meindl treated heavily with obenhaufs.

18 month old hanwag been treated regularly with obenhaufs.
I haven't seen the rand glue separation others have. Not sure what the difference is but I've been happy with obenhaufs for waterproofing.

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[durangobrad]

I use sno seal on everything from my gloves to my boots.

SNO SEAL Wax - 8 oz. Jar

 

[austinphps]

I use the Nikwax, as it was being sold on Schnee's website, so I assume it is safe for the rubber rand on my Absarokas.

As far as treating your new boats right out of the box, I would say you don't need to do that, as most boots are conditioned already to a certain degree. I didn't condition mine and they have seen some mud/snow and I notice it repels off the boot just fine. I've had them for 1-2 months so far, and probably put 20+ miles in them, but before spring and things get real wet/muddy I will clean them up and condition them.

 

[jmez]

I've used Obenhauf's on my Hanwag's for four seasons and no rand separation/damage.

 

[Akicita]

I like to use the obenauf's heavy duty LP on my leather boots. warm the boot up and massage into the leather. dry leather will accept several applications. No clue on warranty.

Any issues with obenaufs breaking down the glue on boots with rands?
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I would caution about using any heat that would be warmer than any typical environmental ambient temperature the boot was designed for. Most all boot manufacturers use a heat sensitive bonding glue for the last, mid sole, sole and rand. Even heat from a hair dyer can compromise the integrity of the construction.

I am always reluctant to give any advice on leather conditioning as much as I am parenting advice on forums but here I go. . . I will tell you that all my Gore-Tex lined leather boots get a regular washing every week of use with natural Marseille soap and a thorough rinse. If they are suede uppers or a combo of suede and synthetic I will spray a light coat of a reputable DWR and let air dry. If they are tanned leather uppers I will wash regularly with Marseille soap and rinse. I then rub a light coat of a quality all natural bees wax conditioner or natural Bear lard containing no petroleum products and let air dry. After drying I buff with a soft cloth.

I prefer Grangers DWR for suede and synthetic and Hestra Glove Balm or natural Bear lard for tanned leather. The key is to wash regularly and do not dry with a heat source.

 

[Blockcaver]

Sno Seal for me. Set boots and Sno Seal in the hot sun, rub in as much as you can with a rag, let sit in the sun for a day. Repeat at last one more time, or maybe a third time if the boot leather was really dry. This takes care of my boots for a two week hunt. although I often carry a small doubled up ziplocks of it along on along trip......(see bowstring wax comment), for a toe touch up when it is wet and the grass is tall.

Note that Sno Seal (beeswax) is a fine bowstring wax too .

 

[Jimbo V]

Jimbo I personally haven't seen it and I only use obenhaufs. I think Ross had rand separation on some boots he tested and the manufacturer blamed it on being treated by obenhaufs though.

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Thanks for the feedback


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[Jimbo V]

6 year old meindl treated heavily with obenhaufs.

18 month old hanwag been treated regularly with obenhaufs.
I haven't seen the rand glue separation others have. Not sure what the difference is but I've been happy with obenhaufs for waterproofing.

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Man I miss those boots, had a pair of Alaska's and just couldn't get my left foot to fit, tried everything and they didn't work, exceptional boot!
Thanks for the feedback!

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[Frito]

I would caution about using any heat that would be warmer than any typical environmental ambient temperature the boot was designed for. Most all boot manufacturers use a heat sensitive bonding glue for the last, mid sole, sole and rand. Even heat from a hair dyer can compromise the integrity of the construction.

I am always reluctant to give any advice on leather conditioning as much as I am parenting advice on forums but here I go. . . I will tell you that all my Gore-Tex lined leather boots get a regular washing every week of use with natural Marseille soap and a thorough rinse. If they are suede uppers or a combo of suede and synthetic I will spray a light coat of a reputable DWR and let air dry. If they are tanned leather uppers I will wash regularly with Marseille soap and rinse. I then rub a light coat of a quality all natural bees wax conditioner or natural Bear lard containing no petroleum products and let air dry. After drying I buff with a soft cloth.

I prefer Grangers DWR for suede and synthetic and Hestra Glove Balm or natural Bear lard for tanned leather. The key is to wash regularly and do not dry with a heat source.

Very true. I have heard a few stories of boots soles and rands delaminating because people propped their feed up next to a camp fire with boots on.