Bonding a picatinny rail to an action

[nm.otter]

Wiha.

 

[Walker6]

Much obliged.

 

[BigMiss]

Resurrecting this thread to ask a question about bonding rails.
I pulled the rail off my Bergara to bond it. Of course, the front 6-48 screw sheared off and I couldn't get it out with an extractor. Had a local garage smith drill and tap the holes for 8-40. I've scuffed up the top of my cerakoted action and the bottom of the rail, and I've got BSI IC-2000 as a bonding agent. I am hesitant/nervous about the fast bond time and being able to get all of the screws in, then removed one by one to clean the glue off them. Should I just set the glued rail on, and send it with nail-polished screws? Or should I attempt to dry screw it and remove them to re-clean and nail polish? It is a 20-45 second glue. I've had terrible luck with crappy rail screws stripping or shearing below torque values, so I am hesitant to also introduce a "permanent" glue into this process. Thoughts?

 

[rbutcher1234]

Honestly, send it. Why would you need to ever pull the rail off? The barrel can be changed with it still on.

 

[grfox92]

Resurrecting this thread to ask a question about bonding rails.
I pulled the rail off my Bergara to bond it. Of course, the front 6-48 screw sheared off and I couldn't get it out with an extractor. Had a local garage smith drill and tap the holes for 8-40. I've scuffed up the top of my cerakoted action and the bottom of the rail, and I've got BSI IC-2000 as a bonding agent. I am hesitant/nervous about the fast bond time and being able to get all of the screws in, then removed one by one to clean the glue off them. Should I just set the glued rail on, and send it with nail-polished screws? Or should I attempt to dry screw it and remove them to re-clean and nail polish? It is a 20-45 second glue. I've had terrible luck with crappy rail screws stripping or shearing below torque values, so I am hesitant to also introduce a "permanent" glue into this process. Thoughts?

I would just use an adhesive with a longer flash time.

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[mtnbound]

Resurrecting this thread to ask a question about bonding rails.
I pulled the rail off my Bergara to bond it. Of course, the front 6-48 screw sheared off and I couldn't get it out with an extractor. Had a local garage smith drill and tap the holes for 8-40. I've scuffed up the top of my cerakoted action and the bottom of the rail, and I've got BSI IC-2000 as a bonding agent. I am hesitant/nervous about the fast bond time and being able to get all of the screws in, then removed one by one to clean the glue off them. Should I just set the glued rail on, and send it with nail-polished screws? Or should I attempt to dry screw it and remove them to re-clean and nail polish? It is a 20-45 second glue. I've had terrible luck with crappy rail screws stripping or shearing below torque values, so I am hesitant to also introduce a "permanent" glue into this process. Thoughts?

I would use Loctite 380 because it has a slower set time.

 

[BigMiss]

Does it actually have a slower set time though? This is from the TDS for 380.

 

[BRTreedogs]

Resurrecting this thread to ask a question about bonding rails.
I pulled the rail off my Bergara to bond it. Of course, the front 6-48 screw sheared off and I couldn't get it out with an extractor. Had a local garage smith drill and tap the holes for 8-40. I've scuffed up the top of my cerakoted action and the bottom of the rail, and I've got BSI IC-2000 as a bonding agent. I am hesitant/nervous about the fast bond time and being able to get all of the screws in, then removed one by one to clean the glue off them. Should I just set the glued rail on, and send it with nail-polished screws? Or should I attempt to dry screw it and remove them to re-clean and nail polish? It is a 20-45 second glue. I've had terrible luck with crappy rail screws stripping or shearing below torque values, so I am hesitant to also introduce a "permanent" glue into this process. Thoughts?

JB Weld

 

[Schutzprecision]

Resurrecting this thread to ask a question about bonding rails.
I pulled the rail off my Bergara to bond it. Of course, the front 6-48 screw sheared off and I couldn't get it out with an extractor. Had a local garage smith drill and tap the holes for 8-40. I've scuffed up the top of my cerakoted action and the bottom of the rail, and I've got BSI IC-2000 as a bonding agent. I am hesitant/nervous about the fast bond time and being able to get all of the screws in, then removed one by one to clean the glue off them. Should I just set the glued rail on, and send it with nail-polished screws? Or should I attempt to dry screw it and remove them to re-clean and nail polish? It is a 20-45 second glue. I've had terrible luck with crappy rail screws stripping or shearing below torque values, so I am hesitant to also introduce a "permanent" glue into this process. Thoughts?

I had scenario similar to yours recently. Scuffed up the top of my cerakoted action, degreased everything, applied 380 to base and blue loctite to screws and installed. The 4th screw head snapped off as I was torquing them down. I removed the screws and tapped the base with a brass hammer to knock it off. The 380 was already starting to set up. I cleaned everything up with acetone and replaced the screws. I reinstalled with 380 on the base and blue loctite on screws and torqued down. If it ever has to come off a little localized heat should allow it to be removed.

 

[Marbles]

JB Weld

This is the way.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Jb weld. Golf club shafting epoxy is also very strong and has a good open/working time

 

[SloppyJ]

I moved my son's tikka 223 into a MDT chassis for some more adjustability for him. The unforeseen consequences were that no one makes scope rings that are high enough for a the 1" tube on his trijicon. I JB welded a Area 419 pic rail on top of his action using JB weld earlier this week in order to use normal pic style rings. I got the 419 rail because it's pinned. The pin probably doesn't matter if you epoxy it on but it made me feel better.

I used JB weld because I was out of the marine tex epoxy that I typically use to bed rifles with. It seemed to do just fine and I don't anticipate that we will have any issues out of it. Don't overthink it. Something to bond the rail to the action is all that's needed. The loctite is nice but not a requirement. Just for cleanup alone, I wouldn't want something that sets up super quick. I was able to use alcohol and probably 50 qtips to clean mine all up. I did it incrementally as I tightened down the 4 screws that squished out the epoxy and I used painters tape to ensure that it didn't get too bad.

 

[BigMiss]

I got my replacement base screws today, so I finally tossed it on tonight. I'll admit, I was a bit stressed with the quick-bond glue. Got everything wiped with acetone, set my screws in order and pre-nail polished them. I did not bother to clean any potential glue splooge from the holes. I just sent er in there. If they strip out, I can have them tapped out again but there is zero reason for me to remove this rail now. 4 or 5 q-tips with acetone and the glue line wiped from the perimeter very nicely. I'd assume the parts were very stuck together by then as it took me over a minute, but the exposed glue was still very wet.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions folks!