Black Walnut trees growth and harvest tips

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Apr 8, 2014
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I recently purchased some land in the WI driftless area and was excited to find some black walnut trees. I want to develop a plan for managing and harvesting them. Right now i am in the process of locating and marking them, but would be interested in any advice for specialty loggers, marketing, size and quality goals, etc. so I don't inadvertently reduce their value.
 
If they've never been managed before, I'd start by looking closely for any signs of walnut blight and/or insect damage. FYI, I'm no arborist, but hung out on arboristsite.com a lot while we were burning wood exclusively to heat our home and they're basically the Rokslide of Trees. You might want to join and repost this there.
 
My understanding is that they are not as valuable as they were 50 years ago since tastes in furniture and etc. have changed. But they are still lovely trees to have around for the squirrels, shade, and the grazing that is possible underneath them. The fact that they inhibit the germination of other plants underneath them is potentially very useful. The yard around the cabin in which I was raised has turned into a walnut grove since we moved out of it a few years ago. It’s quite lovely now.

Caring for them makes a great deal of sense to me, since fashion is a circle.


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That’s really cool. It’s not uncommon to end up with a portable mill cutting them on your property, or maybe you pay for transport to a custom mill and back home and you’ll stack and dry them out of the weather for as long as it takes to get into equilibrium with the air moisture in your area. If you are just going to sell the logs to a mill, that’s just going to be at the going rate, which will be shockingly low.

There’s a lot of information on how logs are cut by sawmills to maximize every bit of value, but for the most part you’ll probably just slice it into slabs for the thickness of boards you’re after, dry it, and maybe resaw and thickness plane when dry so the eventual buyer can see the quality and grain direction. Completely rough sawn hardwood is heavily discounted unless it’s large slabs since it’s a crap shoot what it actually looks like for things like furniture.

A visit to a local hardwood supplier would be fun just to see how hardwood boards are marketed commercially. Normally it’s planed on two sides with rough cut or natural edge on the other two in random widths, and sold by the board feet. For making heavy dining tables or counter tops, wide boards at least 8/4” or 10/4” thick are ideal with a finished thickness after being planed of 6/4”or 8/4” and that thickness also makes nice legs when doubled up. Personally, I’d cut the entire tree 10/4” in 10’ lengths and approach local cabinet and furniture makers when dry. 10’ allows 9’ tables, with enough length for three legs. Maybe there is a local shortage of a certain popular thickness, so talking with local furniture guys may show more of a demand for thicker or thinner boards.

There are some good video channels that cut hardwood slabs from local logs. Matt doesn’t have a portable mill, but he has a ton of videos cutting and drying logs in small quantities, sometimes for other people. Other mills with hydraulic turning and clamping are better for beams and rectangular boards, but it’s a cool channel.

 
When I was buying 1,000 brdft of hardwood every month and working as a full time woodworker, chatting with a small custom sawmill operator, he did say it’s much less hassle to sell slabs, because if you cut small boards, people want to high grade the best ones and leave you with a lot of odds and ends that can’t be sold, or they don’t want to pay for oddball thicknesses so boards sit for years. With slabs the entire tree goes away.
 
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