Iowaguy
FNG
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2019
- Messages
- 25
Thanks! I was worried about the fragile parts of the skull. It's a decent rack and dont want to mess it up!I would soak it for two weeks then change the water and soak for an additional 2 weeks. Pull the hide off the head after the first couple of days. You can continue this process until everything but bone is left.
Deer bones are fairly fragile and if you boil too long, you risk the sun damaged bones disintegrating.
Great advice! Thanks!As some said, begin by soaking. I wouldn't recommend boiling, or even simmering. Especially on a skull that's already been weathered. It simply leads to further boat degradation.
I'd soak in plain water and let bacteria do it's thing for a few days. Should clean right up.
THEN... get some dawn and put it in fresh water. Drop a $20 aquarium heater in there. Change water every 2-3 days until it pours clear. This very low heat (under 100 degrees) and degreaser will remove the fat from the bone. It is this fat that eventually leads to spotting and potentially yellowing.
Last step is to whiten. There are lots of products out there. Just don't use bleach. What I like doing is getting a gallon of pool shocker. It's like 80% H202, or something crazy. Be very careful, as a drop to the eye might mean permanent damage. Even a drop to the skin results in almost immediate peeling. Find a vessel that roughly fits the shape of the skull. Fill remaining voids with filled plastic water bottles, or marbles. Then fill mostly to the burrs. Don't let it hit the antler bases, as it will whiten them. Prior to putting skull in vessel, I wrap each pedicle with stirps of white t-shirt material. I also leave a section that covers the dome of the skull. All pieces then have long skirts that will hang down into the H202. These will wick the solvent up and around the entire skull without ever getting to the burs or antlers.
One gallon will probably do 15 whitetail.
For less to zero work, I just burry it. I just find an out of the way spot in our fenced in garden and leave it alone for a couple months and let the bugs do the work. It turns the skull an earthy brown color, (you can tape the antlers, helps with discoloration) hose it down when you pull it out. Leave it out in the sun and it will turn white again. Time vs expended energy. Its great if you have the time to do nothing
As some said, begin by soaking. I wouldn't recommend boiling, or even simmering. Especially on a skull that's already been weathered. It simply leads to further boat degradation.
I'd soak in plain water and let bacteria do it's thing for a few days. Should clean right up.
THEN... get some dawn and put it in fresh water. Drop a $20 aquarium heater in there. Change water every 2-3 days until it pours clear. This very low heat (under 100 degrees) and degreaser will remove the fat from the bone. It is this fat that eventually leads to spotting and potentially yellowing.
Last step is to whiten. There are lots of products out there. Just don't use bleach. What I like doing is getting a gallon of pool shocker. It's like 80% H202, or something crazy. Be very careful, as a drop to the eye might mean permanent damage. Even a drop to the skin results in almost immediate peeling. Find a vessel that roughly fits the shape of the skull. Fill remaining voids with filled plastic water bottles, or marbles. Then fill mostly to the burrs. Don't let it hit the antler bases, as it will whiten them. Prior to putting skull in vessel, I wrap each pedicle with stirps of white t-shirt material. I also leave a section that covers the dome of the skull. All pieces then have long skirts that will hang down into the H202. These will wick the solvent up and around the entire skull without ever getting to the burs or antlers.
One gallon will probably do 15 whitetail.
The aquarium heater for de-greasing was a real game changer for me. This is all great and proven advise for skull cleanup.
100%All depends on what kind of final product you're after.