Best rest for my hard pushing form

[Blowdowner]

Hi Mathews Phase 4 33" ata. When at full draw i put constant pressure on the wall. I don't really settle in. I'm wondering if this has a negative effect on a cable driven QAD rest. It has started slapping the shelf and i noticed the white line for timing was all the way past the mark. Making the string longer has resulted in even worse slap maybe even arrow contact.

Isthere a brand or style of rest could handle this best.
Or do i really need to stop it and allow the letoff do what it's supposed to?

 

[Billy Goat]

What bow, or what stop system? Cable stops? Limb stops?

How is cable tied in?

 

[Blowdowner]

What bow, or what stop system? Cable stops? Limb stops?

How is cable tied in?

Edited the original to clarify thank you.

 

[Marshfly]

Let's start with retiming the rest. Make sure you have a little extra cord hanging out of the cable. I hope you aren't using the stupid football. Snug the cord up against the bottom of the cable serving. Pull it tight so it will pull through the cable as you draw the bow. Draw the bow. The rest/cable will self time. Tie an overhand knot in the cord directly behind the cable. Cut and burn. Do not play with cord length trying to time it. Let it self time.

I have installed a decent amount of QAD rests on Mathews bows and this method is 100% for me.


Now, some things you said lead me to believe that you are not holding pressure on the back wall of the bow but maybe I'm not understanding correctly. With all due respect, that's simply not the correct way to hold a bow at full draw. If I misunderstood then ignore this.
When timed as I detailed above and when you hold constant pressure on the back wall of a Mathews bow through the release, a QAD will work correctly. At least every one I've set up has.

I literally have 3 Mathews Switchweight mod bows with QAD rests sitting within 20 feet of me right now that were all setup this way and work flawlessly.

 

[Billy Goat]

Edited the original to clarify thank you.

I don't think you have enough cable tension.


The lines will normally pass each other. I find it really easy to just let the qad self time. Don't use the football, put it through your cable at the bottom of your roller guard serving. Draw the bow back. Where it pulls through to will be the correct tension. I don't try to put a knot in it to stop it at a certain point. Can put a knot on the end, or a little ways off if you are really worried about it. But too much tension from creep and a hard knot can damage them, not enough tension and they won't always drop correctly. Over a bunch if them, allowing them to set tension by drawing it has been perfect.

Try that.

 

[Marshfly]

Also, if you had the cord too short to begin with and shot like that, you probably broke the rest. Call QAD and they can fix it.

 

[Billy Goat]

If you are really pulling through the wall, try these.

Austin's Mathews NBS Draw Stops

Austin’s N.B.S stops are made from all aluminum and anodized black. These stops allow archers to increase holding weight, firm up the back wall, and hit in-between draw lengths on TRX and SW, SWX, and Title mods. The flat stops from Austin’s N.B.S stops give you precision when setting timing...

lancasterarchery.com

Have them on most of my Mathews, made them before they were available.


And, it's not uncommon yo need to micro adjust the timing on mathews. I generally use a little barbell of d-loop, or I think conquest makes something. But if you are having timing issues, that might be your solution.

 

[Marshfly]

If you are really pulling through the wall, try these.

Austin's Mathews NBS Draw Stops

Austin’s N.B.S stops are made from all aluminum and anodized black. These stops allow archers to increase holding weight, firm up the back wall, and hit in-between draw lengths on TRX and SW, SWX, and Title mods. The flat stops from Austin’s N.B.S stops give you precision when setting timing...

lancasterarchery.com

Have them on most of my Mathews, made them before they were available.

Those are cool. I bet that flat surface makes for less wear on the serving also.

 

[Billy Goat]

Those are cool. I bet that flat surface makes for less wear on the serving also.

And a hard wall.

I also shoot with a lot of tension, some bows I tend to induce cam lean, cause when I get pissed, I pull harder.

Haven't had issues once I started to use stops on the newer Mathew's cams.

 

[Blowdowner]

Let's start with retiming the rest. Make sure you have a little extra cord hanging out of the cable. I hope you aren't using the stupid football. Snug the cord up against the bottom of the cable serving. Pull it tight so it will pull through the cable as you draw the bow. Draw the bow. The rest/cable will self time. Tie an overhand knot in the cord directly behind the cable. Cut and burn. Do not play with cord length trying to time it. Let it self time.

I have installed a decent amount of QAD rests on Mathews bows and this method is 100% for me.


Now, some things you said lead me to believe that you are not holding pressure on the back wall of the bow but maybe I'm not understanding correctly. With all due respect, that's simply not the correct way to hold a bow at full draw. If I misunderstood then ignore this.
When timed as I detailed above and when you hold constant pressure on the back wall of a Mathews bow through the release, a QAD will work correctly. At least every one I've set up has.

I literally have 3 Mathews Switchweight mod bows with QAD rests sitting within 20 feet of me right now that were all setup this way and work flawlessly.

I adjusted the timing so the marks line up but i have not tried your way. I will.

I'm holding with more pressure than necessary. Straining against the wall a bit. My draw length is not short though. I'm just pressing forward.

 

[Blowdowner]

Also, if you had the cord too short to begin with and shot like that, you probably broke the rest. Call QAD and they can fix it.

You might be right

 

[Marshfly]

I adjusted the timing so the marks line up but i have not tried your way. I will.

I'm holding with more pressure than necessary. Straining against the wall a bit. My draw length is not short though. I'm just pressing forward.

That tiny little bit of flex you might get pulling hard isn't going to break the rest or cause it to malfunction. You have a setup error and maybe broken rest. You'll get it. The QAD works fine when setup as we both described above. I think people that have issues mostly are using some other method.