Best method for determining yardages for Williams Precision

PhillyB

WKR
Joined
Apr 28, 2012
Messages
411
Location
Utah
What is the best method for determining the distance for hash marks on the Williams Precision rear sight (shown below)?

I have built sight tapes for my bow using archers advantage and can do it the old fashion way of shooting 50, 100, 150, etc, then marking... but I am sure there is a better and cheaper way to get me close, then fine tune the yardages.

This is my first time into something like this, so all suggestions are welcome.

Thanks.

1740778843066.png
 
You'll have to shoot it. And if you are shooting at distance you will need way more practice then it takes to build the drop data.
 
Thanks guys. I appreciate it. I thought this might be the case.

I have all the load data that I worked up for a custom scope turret and I was hoping somehow that could be used to support the process
 
Every gun and load is different. Only way is to shoot it at each yardage and mark the sight. I place a tape to the left of the lines and mark
Do you have a pic of your yardages for reference? I am curious what the gaps between yardages look like
 
If your goal is to genuinely be able to hit whatever you see out to 300 and in, there really is no replacement for just getting out there and shooting the gun in 50 yd increments all the way out. It's just as much about getting to know your gun, your load, and yourself as operator, as it is gathering data.

Especially when it comes to real-world conditions, and experiencing what that bullet will do in even a little wind. With muzzleloaders especially, apps and calculations just don't replace the experience the supercomputer between your ears gets in experiencing your groups open up at distance in a given wind situation. In my experience, it better informs on what you can or should attempt on a living animal, vs what the data says. Sobering you up to yourself, it could be said.
 
As others said above, it works best to just go shoot. It's possible to measure the sight radius and approximate the MOA equivalent of each click and line, but shooting it in is more effective.
I generally start with a fairly tall target with a really large, bright aiming point in the center. Guesstimate where each yardage will be to start, then adjust and shoot again until you have each adjustment validated. Going every 100 yards has worked for me.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top