Best Electric fence charger for ultralight backcountry setup

[Dunky]

I have used the bearwatch system linked above in several places in montana with pretty dry soil in the summer and consistently get 8kv on the tester with the 8 AA batteries or my Dark Energy Poseidon power bank with their adapter. Accidentally touched it once and got a significant shock that I felt exit through my knee that was on the ground. The AA batteries only last a day or two but you can do a power save mode that decreases the time between impulses. I just got the sureguard one recently to save a little more weight but haven't tested it yet.

 

[Preston]

I think I run the patriot pb12. It runs on 4 d batteries which are really the substantial weight component. The rest of the parts are super light. Batteries last and really long time as long as there isn't a short (like grass touching the wires).

Just make sure you run a hot/ground/hot wire pattern. Three wires work and 5 is better.

Question for you, do you use a grounding rod also, or just put the hot on the top and bottom wires and the ground on the center wire?

I've had two solar Gallagher and they both quit working after 5-6 months I think the first was a grounding problem bc once I watered the grounding rod it began working. And this 2nd one didn't get enough solar in the cloudy fall months. Open to any ideas.

I definitely like electric fences and our horses really respect them, some horses more than others.

 

[Legend]

Question for you, do you use a grounding rod also, or just put the hot on the top and bottom wires and the ground on the center wire?

I've had two solar Gallagher and they both quit working after 5-6 months I think the first was a grounding problem bc once I watered the grounding rod it began working. And this 2nd one didn't get enough solar in the cloudy fall months. Open to any ideas.

I definitely like electric fences and our horses really respect them, some horses more than others.

In order to have a USFS compliant bear fence around food (meat) you need a grounding rod. I can't remeber the details but it is a way bigger rod than you would carry in your backpack. And if you did manage to get it sounded in you would never be able to pull it.

My set up probably doesn't qualify for USFS. I run about a 5 foot piece of copper wire in a trench and finish it with a big galvanized nail in the ground. Bury the trench and if extra water is available I will soak it down and step it in.

Everywhere I have read says you need a grounding rod. But I am not sure it actually is necessary if you have a hot/ground/hot wire configuration.

 

[WyoHuntr]

For you or for the stock?

For you: the Sureguard that someone had pictured. Runs on 2-AA's that last a couple of days, better pop than an AN-20, super light even with extra batteries. I use it with the Bearwatch Systems Fence.

For stock: Gallagher S12. Weighs a couple of pounds, runs on solar, and packs a good pop. I cut my fiberglass poles in half and epoxied metal sleeves on to make more packable two-piece poles.

 

[Guswild]

Both energizer above take 4 D batteries.

I have seen companies claiming high joule output from AA batteries but I have a hard time believing that to be true. I can see if they are hooked up to a large 12v it would but when using AA I bet it is much less.

View attachment 838358View attachment 838359View attachment 838360

Thanks for these scale weights!!

 

[Guswild]

too many variables to say how much you can get on a reel. i would guess i have 150 ft on each reel. they get bulky after you use them a few times. probably the most efficient way to pack in is to use a new roll of wire and take empty reels in.

my horses run against a hot wire all year and don't test it for 2 days so i dont use insulators. i just string it through the bushes and trees. if i need to get a wire hot i tie hay string to trees then tie or run the wire through the hay string from tree to tree.

many equines will learn they can go under real quick and not get a hard jolt. string a low wire.

grounds in dry sandy soil are a problem. a little help with some -ahem- moisture can be necessary.

Ahem
This setup sounds about as simple as it gets! I like that. If you do end up needing to make it hot

too many variables to say how much you can get on a reel. i would guess i have 150 ft on each reel. they get bulky after you use them a few times. probably the most efficient way to pack in is to use a new roll of wire and take empty reels in.

my horses run against a hot wire all year and don't test it for 2 days so i dont use insulators. i just string it through the bushes and trees. if i need to get a wire hot i tie hay string to trees then tie or run the wire through the hay string from tree to tree.

many equines will learn they can go under real quick and not get a hard jolt. string a low wire.

grounds in dry sandy soil are a problem. a little help with some -ahem- moisture can be necessary.

ahem
This sounds about as simple and low cost as it gets. I like that. If you do end up needing to make your strand hot what charger do you use? What do you use for a grounding rod?

The Sureguard unit I linked uses 2 AA batteries. I've measured it with a fence tester and gotten consistent readings in the mid-7kV range; 9kV would be nice but 7kV is sufficient. This is the same controller that the Kodiak NWR loans out to people for use on Kodiak, for whatever that's worth.

My entire system weighs less than 36oz and includes the following:

- Sureguard controller (w/ 2 batteries installed and 2 spares)
- Beefy aluminum grounding rod
- Six (6) "fence posts" w/ insulators (made from carbon arrow shafts with take-down inserts)
- Enough polywire to enclose a 10'x10' area with 2 strands or a 15'x15' area with one strand
- Plastic winder for polywire
- stuff sack

The Sureguard unit I linked uses 2 AA batteries. I've measured it with a fence tester and gotten consistent readings in the mid-7kV range; 9kV would be nice but 7kV is sufficient. This is the same controller that the Kodiak NWR loans out to people for use on Kodiak, for whatever that's worth.

My entire system weighs less than 36oz and includes the following:

- Sureguard controller (w/ 2 batteries installed and 2 spares)
- Beefy aluminum grounding rod
- Six (6) "fence posts" w/ insulators (made from carbon arrow shafts with take-down inserts)
- Enough polywire to enclose a 10'x10' area with 2 strands or a 15'x15' area with one strand
- Plastic winder for polywire
- stuff sack

This system sounds perfect! At least for my needs. Any chance you have a picture of the kit? Especially interested in your “fence posts”. When you say beefy aluminum grounding rod what are the approximate dimensions?

 

[Guswild]

For you or for the stock?

For you: the Sureguard that someone had pictured. Runs on 2-AA's that last a couple of days, better pop than an AN-20, super light even with extra batteries. I use it with the Bearwatch Systems Fence.

For stock: Gallagher S12. Weighs a couple of pounds, runs on solar, and packs a good pop. I cut my fiberglass poles in half and epoxied metal sleeves on to make more packable two-piece poles.

Yup, for stock. Why S12 over the sureguard? Just for the better zap?

 

[Antares]

Ahem
This setup sounds about as simple as it gets! I like that. If you do end up needing to make it hot

ahem
This sounds about as simple and low cost as it gets. I like that. If you do end up needing to make your strand hot what charger do you use? What do you use for a grounding rod?



This system sounds perfect! At least for my needs. Any chance you have a picture of the kit? Especially interested in your “fence posts”. When you say beefy aluminum grounding rod what are the approximate dimensions?

2 lbs 5 oz as pictured. That's with 6 fence posts. You could get away with 4, but 6 is nice for dealing with uneven ground.

 

[WyoHuntr]

Yup, for stock. Why S12 over the sureguard? Just for the better zap?

Definitely for more pop. Sometimes it's hard to get a good ground. So a 30-40% shock from an S12 can still pop, but 30-40% from a smaller charger feels like a little static shock. I nut up and test the fence every time (super important). The grounding point can really make a difference for small chargers.

Plus, it's super easy with the solar. I don't have to guess days of batteries left, or pack extra D batteries.

 

[khart_6882]

Definitely for more pop. Sometimes it's hard to get a good ground. So a 30-40% shock from an S12 can still pop, but 30-40% from a smaller charger feels like a little static shock. I nut up and test the fence every time (super important). The grounding point can really make a difference for small chargers.

Plus, it's super easy with the solar. I don't have to guess days of batteries left, or pack extra D batteries.

Question about your solar charger, if you leave it in the sun for a week at your house then let’s say it spends 2 days in the dark (drive to trailhead, ride in the next day to where you want to set up camp) will it still have some juice in it right when you build your fence? Or does it need to absorb some sunlight for a while before it’ll have power again

 

[doverpack12]

I have an S12. It spends the winter each year in the dark. When I turn it on the next time it still has juice. I baked it good in the sun right when I first got it. About 90 with no shade for a few days.

 

[WyoHuntr]

Question about your solar charger, if you leave it in the sun for a week at your house then let’s say it spends 2 days in the dark (drive to trailhead, ride in the next day to where you want to set up camp) will it still have some juice in it right when you build your fence? Or does it need to absorb some sunlight for a while before it’ll have power again

The solar is charging an internal lithium battery. The battery will still be at full charge when you set it up.