The only way I know to do that is to first level the rifle and then the crosshairs and I was trying to find a way to check both levels at the same time since I don't have a level to clamp on the barrel.. if I level the crosshairs but the rifle is canted it doesn't seem like that would help anything.. but if you know of a better way I'm open to learn
Yeah, something inexpensive like a plain Jane Tikka t3 would never get widespread support in a place like this, especially topped with a scope that is only like $300.
This is the ticket. Quick, easy, foolproof.
This is what I do, but first I also level the action to the earth too.
Depends on where you mount your bubble level and how you true it up. Best case scenario, everything is leveled and plumb to each other.
I’ve tried this thing many times. IME, it only gets you close. Good enough for maybe short range and non dialing scopes. But there is certainly some margin for error verifying perfectly plumb. I prefer the projection method.
It gets your crosshair aligned with the bore by using your eye. You also use that same eye to center the bubble in the bubba level. I agree that the projection method is good to set your bubba level to. Only thing with bubba levels is, I have never found a single one that has an accuracy guarantee. So your 'close' argument is only as close as your eye anyway. The only levels that I know of with accuracy guarantee is Starrett and Stabila. So those chinese POS bubba levels are, exactly that....
Valid point. Call me ocd, but I will usually use 3 levels (one being an Starrett) for the initial stage of the process. That usually gives me 2 that “agree”, and then I set my reference level off those two.
