Bergara accuracy - scope mounting issues

[The grunt]

I can't figure out why you are trying to level the action. Align the crosshair to center on the bore......

The only way I know to do that is to first level the rifle and then the crosshairs and I was trying to find a way to check both levels at the same time since I don't have a level to clamp on the barrel.. if I level the crosshairs but the rifle is canted it doesn't seem like that would help anything.. but if you know of a better way I'm open to learn

 

[huntsman22]

Here is just one example of a 'better way'...... reticle-tru.

Parabola LLC

parabola-llc.com

 

[The grunt]

Looks idiot proof which is pry what I need

 

[eric1115]

Reticle level to action doesn't matter very much. Reticle level to earth matters at long range, but within reason not very much at 100 yards.

 

[grfox92]

I'm blown away by the number of Begaras that won't shoot threads. I think there might be dozens at this point.

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[khart_6882]

Ok thanks all for the replies.. maybe I should just give up on it and try something else.. I think I'll put it back together and just see what it does I have scraped some paint from inside the stock earlier but mine doesn't have those mini pillars like was posted..
@ResearchinStuff I had my stock off and was leveling off of the bottom of the recoil lug then took the scope off to check the rings to see how they compared, I was just trying to find a spot to level the action and then set my scope.
I'll try to post it if I happen to get it shooting good.
It's interesting to me the difference in opinions on Leupolds. I know of some pretty serious backcountry hunters that use them a lot and for long distance (up to 800 yards in the field) and they claim to never have had one fail.. but I have noticed on rokslide before that they aren't very favored. Anyways I'm not wanting to open that can here it's just interesting.

If you didn’t have to sell everything you own to fund your rifle set up, it’ll get hate on rokslide.


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[ResearchinStuff]

That's just false. If your rifle set up is unreliable, inaccurate, and unsafe in inclement weather you get told about it here. Every other forum just blows smoke and pretends like all these options are equal in performance despite ample evidence that they're not. There is nothing fancy or expensive about tikka or swfa - they just work.

The most offensive guns are the semi custom options (CA, Bergera, fierce, savage ultralight, etc) that are priced like a premium option with poor performance demonstrated over many samples, or inherent design deficiencies in scope mounting or magazine feeding.

Unfortunately, the entire market right now is flooded with a bunch of overpriced junk, and a lot of people end up paying a premium for something that is objectively worse than a rokslide special would have been.

 

[eric1115]

If you didn’t have to sell everything you own to fund your rifle set up, it’ll get hate on rokslide.


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Yeah, something inexpensive like a plain Jane Tikka t3 would never get widespread support in a place like this, especially topped with a scope that is only like $300.

 

[General RE LEE]

Create a plumb line in your house or garage, Mount rifle in a vise reasonably level but preferably with any cant you naturally induce behind the rifle. Shine a light in the objective lens and cast the image of the reticle onto the wall with the plumb line. Line up your reticle with this plumb line and you should be good with the earth. That is more important than perfectly level with the action.

 

[nobody]

Yeah, something inexpensive like a plain Jane Tikka t3 would never get widespread support in a place like this, especially topped with a scope that is only like $300.

 

[JGRaider]

Here is just one example of a 'better way'...... reticle-tru.

Parabola LLC

parabola-llc.com

This is the ticket. Quick, easy, foolproof.

 

[SDHNTR]

I can't figure out why you are trying to level the action. Align the crosshair to center on the

Create a plumb line in your house or garage, Mount rifle in a vise reasonably level but preferably with any cant you naturally induce behind the rifle. Shine a light in the objective lens and cast the image of the reticle onto the wall with the plumb line. Line up your reticle with this plumb line and you should be good with the earth. That is more important than perfectly level with the action.

This is what I do, but first I also level the action to the earth too.

 

[Harvey_NW]

That is more important than perfectly level with the action.

Depends on where you mount your bubble level and how you true it up. Best case scenario, everything is leveled and plumb to each other.

 

[SDHNTR]

Here is just one example of a 'better way'...... reticle-tru.

Parabola LLC

parabola-llc.com

I’ve tried this thing many times. IME, it only gets you close. Good enough for maybe short range and non dialing scopes. But there is certainly some margin for error verifying perfectly plumb. I prefer the projection method.

 

[huntsman22]

I’ve tried this thing many times. IME, it only gets you close. Good enough for maybe short range and non dialing scopes. But there is certainly some margin for error verifying perfectly plumb. I prefer the projection method.

It gets your crosshair aligned with the bore by using your eye. You also use that same eye to center the bubble in the bubba level. I agree that the projection method is good to set your bubba level to. Only thing with bubba levels is, I have never found a single one that has an accuracy guarantee. So your 'close' argument is only as close as your eye anyway. The only levels that I know of with accuracy guarantee is Starrett and Stabila. So those chinese POS bubba levels are, exactly that....

And good gawd, don't 'naturally induce cant' into your set up. Learn to shoot the fugging thing vertically, instead of ignoring fundamentals to be 'comfortable'......

 

[MAP1]

See image — the recoil lug has some fore/aft slop with the slot in the stock it fits into. Make sure the lug is bottomed out towards the back of the slot ( towards the butt end of the rifle) and torque the front screw first then the rear. Manual says 67 lbs I go 55. https://www.bergara.online/en/blog/...-respecting-tightening-torque-specifications/

 

[JGRaider]

I’ve tried this thing many times. IME, it only gets you close. Good enough for maybe short range and non dialing scopes. But there is certainly some margin for error verifying perfectly plumb. I prefer the projection method.

It gets your crosshair aligned with the bore by using your eye. You also use that same eye to center the bubble in the bubba level. I agree that the projection method is good to set your bubba level to. Only thing with bubba levels is, I have never found a single one that has an accuracy guarantee. So your 'close' argument is only as close as your eye anyway. The only levels that I know of with accuracy guarantee is Starrett and Stabila. So those chinese POS bubba levels are, exactly that....

And good gawd, don't 'naturally induce cant' into your set up. Learn to shoot the fugging thing vertically, instead of ignoring fundamentals to be 'comfortable'......

Spot on again huntsman.

 

[SDHNTR]

It gets your crosshair aligned with the bore by using your eye. You also use that same eye to center the bubble in the bubba level. I agree that the projection method is good to set your bubba level to. Only thing with bubba levels is, I have never found a single one that has an accuracy guarantee. So your 'close' argument is only as close as your eye anyway. The only levels that I know of with accuracy guarantee is Starrett and Stabila. So those chinese POS bubba levels are, exactly that....

And good gawd, don't 'naturally induce cant' into your set up. Learn to shoot the fugging thing vertically, instead of ignoring fundamentals to be 'comfortable'......

Valid point. Call me ocd, but I will usually use 3 levels (one being an Starrett) for the initial stage of the process. That usually gives me 2 that “agree”, and then I set my reference level off those two.

And I certainly agree with your last statement.

 

[The grunt]

Thanks for that I had thought of making sure it it was seated all the way back and also making sure it's not pushing back on the screws.. nice to have some verification on that tho. As for leveling the action it seems to me that I want it all level and straight instead of just one aspect. That said really none of it will make a difference if it's never shot past the sight in distance

 

[The grunt]

I meant to quote @ map1 for the first part.. and my paper manual says 55 in lbs not sure why they are different..