Beginning reloading

[JWP58]

So I'm fairly sure I'm going to purchase the hornady lock n load classic kit.

Natchez

www.natchezss.com

It comes with:

• Lock-N-Load Classic single-stage press
• Lock-N-Load Powder Measure
• Electronic Scale
• The 9th Edition Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading
• Three Lock-N-Load Die Bushings
• Primer Catcher
• Positive Priming System
• Hand-Held Priming Tool
• Universal Reloading Block
• Chamfering and Deburring Tool
• Primer Turning Plate
• One Shot Case Lube

I believe all I need to purchase is dies, calipers, some sort of brass trimmer, and misc tools (comparator and oal gauge), and of course bullets, primers, powder.

Anything else that is a must have? Thanks.

 

[.270]

This is a great starter kit and a good pair of calipers are a must. I rarely have to trim my brass, especially if you are starting with fresh new brass. I would recommend the rcbs prep center before a brass trimmer. Get some Imperial sizing wax instead of the one shot case lube. Also a notebook to record all your loading recipes, I find it interesting to see what works and what didn't.

 

[JWP58]

I have about roughly 150 once fired (from my rifle) brass (.270win mostly nosler, hornady, and whatever hsm uses). I assumed I might need to trim the once fired casings. But if not that's cool too

 

[.270]

I have yet had to trim my .270 cases and my primary .270 is built on a very tight tolerance action. I have to full size every case and push the shoulder back .002 or it won't fit. I occasionally check the case length but I havent had to trim any. I have trimmed my 7mm cases though. When I reload, I stick to one headstamp case, there is variables between the different case manufacturers for the same cartridge. I would use your nosler brass over hornady. I get more reloads out of Norma/Nosler brass then I have with Hornady.
Since you are reloading for a .270, H4831sc is the go to powder I have found for that cartridge. I also use Reloader 26 if I want to get more speed out of it.

 

[JWP58]

Thanks!

 

[mvrk28]

I highly recommend you replace the scale right away, I bought that kit and the scale was a problem. Set your powder measure a couple grains short of your desired charge, then trickle up or you will deal with a ton of overthrows. If you’re going to use a boat tail bullet, I’d buy a VLD chamfering tool or you will deal with endless bullet scraping.

Overall the kit is solid to get started but you could put your own buy once cry once kit together for a little more but have a do all setup that you won’t need to upgrade.

On midway the lock and load kit is $320, i pieced together a setup that still uses lock and load bushings but with a very high quality press.

It’s about $60 more than the Hornady kit and I just realized I forgot the loading block and some case lube but they’re very minimal investments. Besides, you’d be happier with Imperial case wax than one shot anyway.

 

[Sekora]

That kit will definitely get you started. You will want to upgrade items as you go though. My best purchases after starting into handloading were a Lyman case prep center, and a chronograph. I also do not see a flash hole deburring tool listed. They are good to have if using lower end brass. Good tip on the notebook too. I keep a journal now that I wish I started earlier. I refer back to in often as every loading session, rifle cleaning, or trip to the range is recorded in it now.

 

[mtswampfox]

have been doing this for most of my 70 years, starting out in the basement watching dad and his pal reload shotshells. This past week have received packages for midway,sps and just sent off an order to brownells a few minutes ago. Also got a phone call this week that a scope out for cerekoting was done and will be shipped out. It always amuses me when some look to get it all and be done in one fell swoop. Enjoy the ride, pick up stuff as you go along,,make friends with other reloaders as they always have stuff lying around that they have outgrowed

 

[Evergreen]

I'm fairly new at the reloading but I have the same set up you are looking at. I'll second the statement of dumping the scale, it was very inconsistent for me. I've picked up a bunch of stuff since starting in April.
Look into a inline fabrication lift kit for your press if you have a short bench.
Get a good case trimmer, I was talked into one of those hand held case trimmers! Dont waste your time. Get something like a forster or similar.
Get a trickler with a lift kit to reach some of the taller scales.
I'll try to add more as I think of it, hope some of this helps!

 

[See_Bennie_Point]

I have the same kit and am digging it. I scrapped the scale and purchased a Dillon Precision D-Terminator electronic scale. A little pricey ($140) but well worth the money. The Hornady scale was just too inconsistent. Also, purchase a good caliper. I went with an iGaging OriginCal IP54 electronic caliper (about 40 bucks on amazon).

I recommend an inertia bullet puller as well. For case prep I have a dry tumbler kit from Frankford Arsenal and recently started wet tumbling using a rock tumbler from Harbor Freight (paid about 60 bucks) with stainless steel media. I like using a universal decapping tool (Lee precision universal decapper is about 13 dollars) to punch primers out before tumbling without having to lube up the cases.

I recommend note cards and painters tape to label ammo boxes with charge data so you're not playing a guessing game when you get to the range when you're doing load development. For example I label the bullet type/weight, powder type and charge, case type and number of times its been fired, primer type, and crimp. And of course take markers and pens to the range to label groups on targets. I'm a visual person so I save targets then once back home transfer data to my notebook.

Hope this helps, sorry for any repetitive info that's already been relayed. Just my 2 cents.

 

[longbarrel]

I like to trim cases to uniform length and a smooth mouth right away, and chamfer inside and out. I also suggest not only reading the reloading section of the Hornady manual, but getting other sources such as John Wootters' classic book on reloading. I have a mixture of loading gear and here is a partial list, with comments:
1. RCBS rock chucker--this single stage press has been my only press since the 1980s and I have loaded many thousands of rounds on it
2. Forster case trimmer and accessories
3. dies--Redding is possibly the most accurate, but I like and use RCBS competition also. I use their comp seater almost exclusively for rifle rounds because it is fast, easy, and has an accurate micrometer setting method.
4. powder measure--Redding with micrometer setting. The numerical settings may be a little off from the number of grains, but they are reproducible over time.
5. RCBS old style mechanical scale. it is what I got before the electronic scales came along and it still works fine.
6. RCBS case chamferring tool and primer pocket brush. Not saying they are better or worse than any other.
7. RCBS plastic funnel, and MTM plastic funnel with 6" drop tube
8. Lee auto-prime. This is fast and accurate. You get an excellent feel for the tightness of the primer pocket in your brass, essential to safety. A loose pocket will result in a blown primer and gas in your face.
9. Midway wooden case holders. They hold 50 cases and fit well so you don't bump a case and have it tip and spill out powder.
10. Redding powder trickler. It is cast iron and so more stable than the pot metal brands. However, with my old RCBS scales, I had to attach a 1/2" thick spacer to the bottom so the tube would be high enough.

 

[Dos Perros]

Dude you're not reloading until you turning necks and sorting brass.

Just kidding. Have fun. I haven't reloaded a round since my first kid was born. Miss it. A little knowledge and attention to detail and you'll turn a $450 factory rifle into a real hammer.

 

[07yzryder]

i use one shot on my 9mm cause its tapered but NOT on any rifle cartridges. either homemade lanolin or if im only doing a few the imperial size lube.

I have 2 notebooks for reloading. One is a workup book one is a data book.

IE first book will have all my charges as i work a load. below that i will note AVG vel SD and ES of each load as well as group size.

Once a load is found, the data from the good load gets moved to book 2. IE

338LM
Lapua Case
Federal primer
H1000 powder
XX.XX grains
x.xx CBTO

when i have multiple loads IE i have a 40 USPSA Minor load, Major load, and my carry HP load. ill note 40 Minor, 40 Major ETC which the pertinant data. I dedicate a page to each caliber.

Its a bit overkill with 2 books but its how i do it because i had them laying around and this keeps all my info around and im never wondering what my load is.


You will also need a method of cleaning brass whether vibratory or stainless steel.


outside of that, you start get into niche tools depending on what oyur doing. For my ELR rifle have a primer pocket tool to make sure htey are uniform, flash hole debur tool, neck turning tools, concentricity gauge, ETC. overkill for most hunting loads but at a 1760 yards all that plays into it as long as I do my part, key here is I do my part ROFL.

 

[tdot]

Reloading is awesome. But if I could make one suggestion. Seriously consider buying individual components. Buy once, cry once as they say. I started about 5 years ago with borrowed equipment, but it was basically everything I would have purchased. I have since upgraded every single component. The more I reload and research, it seems like that is the one piece of advice that holds true for more people who stay with the hobby long term.

What are your expectations and end goals?
Cheap and precision rarely go together.

Oh ya, a Chronograph is more important then another rifle

 

[JWP58]

Thanks for all the advice. This winter I'm just going to piece together my kit individually. Thanks!

Thinking I'll be reloading for either the 6.5x47L or 6mm creedmoor....whichever I choose to rebarrel with.

 

[wind gypsy]

X47 is the easy button for accuracy! Mine seriously bugholes anything I feed it.

I second the idea of buying individual components that you won’t want to upgrade immediately.

I’d base my setup around the following:

-lee classic cast press (cheap, nice!)
-rcbs chargemaster 1500 - makes powder charging thoughtless
-frankford Arsenal case prep center (won’t need to trim x47 hardly ever)
-frankford arsenal vibratory tumbler - I’ve reverted back after a long time of stainless media. It’s cheaper and you don’t have to deal with pins, drying brass, and should get more consistent bullet seating pressure.

You could forego the case prep center and just get the Forster trimmer with 3-in-1 cutting heads that chamfer, debur, and trim in one step.

 

[rayporter]

notes are one of the most important parts of the process. try to write it all down.

I recommend a small book for each barrel. particularly if you have more than one barrel for a rifle.

I have tried a book for each rifle that had multiple barrels and that doesn't work well for me.