Beginner Rifle Setup... Tikka T3x Lite Roughtech .300 WM w/ Nightforce 4-14x56

[Josh86]

So I've historically been a bow hunter but the last few years I've had less and less time to spend in the woods between work and spending time with my wife and two young daughters. I decided to leave the stick and string behind this year and take a rifle into the elk woods. After reading countless threads and picking the brains of "experts" I decided on the following setup...

Tikka T3x Lite Roughtech .300 WM
Nightforce SVH 4-14x56

This will mainly be used to hunt elk and mule deer but would also like to eventually shoot targets out to 1,000 yrds.

Questions are what would be a good staring point for factory ammo (would like to hand load eventually), what are the "best bang for the buck" modifications I can make that wont break the bank, and what kind of maximum range should I expect with this setup as is and factory ammo )not accounting for shooter error).

 

[Fatcamp]

Are you an experienced rifleman? That would be an amazing setup, but .300WM in a hunting load is no joke, and you really should practice with your field ammunition. Just a lot of recoil for a new shooter. My wife shoots one, very well in fact, but it was a process for her to use that caliber.

 

[Josh86]

Are you an experienced rifleman? That would be an amazing setup, but .300WM in a hunting load is no joke, and you really should practice with your field ammunition. Just a lot of recoil for a new shooter. My wife shoots one, very well in fact, but it was a process for her to use that caliber.

I’ve shot a 30-06 since I was 12 and do some muzzleloader hunting with pretty hot loads that pack a punch. The recoil was one of the reasons I went with the tikka that had a factory installed muzzle break. I don’t think the recoil will give me too many problems but I guess we’ll find out. Lol I chose the .300 WM because $2500 on a rifle setup is a lot of money for me and I wanted to be able to use it on everything from whitetails to bull moose

 

[dirtytough]

Problem with the Berger ammo is the 215 Berger ammo is 3.60". Doesn't really fit in a Tikka. The Berger 185 ammo is Saami so you could go that route.

 

[Lawnboi]

Get a limbsaver pad and some solid scope mounts. Spend the rest on ammo.

Triad tactical soft stock pack will help as well, with raising the comb and not beating you up.

 

[JollyRoger]

I’ve been using a Bradley cheek piece on one of my Tikkas. Would help out with the 56mm bell.
All my Tikkas with factory stocks have the vertical grip. It’s inexpensive and really a great addition.

Side note: I have the F1 SHV 4-14 and absolutely love it.


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[AZ_Hunter_2000]

You have a great setup that should serve you well.

For factory ammo, you should try several boxes to see which one(s) your rifle prefers. Bring your empty magazine to the store and ensure the ammo you want to try fits as you cannot typically return ammo. My T3X in 300 Win Mag shot 180 grain Barnes TTSX fairly well, Hornady Precision Hunter decently, and did amazingly well with Federal Edge TLR. True to my luck the TLR, and its components, then became impossible to find. I ultimately went the hand load route.

Upgrades are a personal thing. Some swear by them and others do just fine without them. I do recommend grabbing a quality bipod. Spend money on ammo and practice often. You do not need to shoot 100s of round per practice (NOT plinking) session. Work your fundamentals as any flaws become more pronounced the further you shoot. You could also look at a shooting class or two.

As far as maximum range, there is a skill component (practice, practice, practice) and an ammunition component. Nosler Accubonds are popular and effective but are not that great for long range. Not adjusting for environmentals and not chronographing it in your rifle, you'd be looking at about 700 yards or so before it dips below 1800 fps.

 

[Josh86]

Best upgrade to me is a stock that actually fits you. Factory stocks (including Tikka) typically have low combs, open grips, and are fairly flexible. A quality stock that fits makes a big difference.

For factory ammo, try the Berger loaded ammo or Hornady ELD-M or X.

For range, I run factory ammo out to 1,400 yards. Quality factory ammo that I’ve used typically has SDs in the mid teens, which is plenty good for big game out

You have a great setup that should serve you well.

For factory ammo, you should try several boxes to see which one(s) your rifle prefers. Bring your empty magazine to the store and ensure the ammo you want to try fits as you cannot typically return ammo. My T3X in 300 Win Mag shot 180 grain Barnes TTSX fairly well, Hornady Precision Hunter decently, and did amazingly well with Federal Edge TLR. True to my luck the TLR, and its components, then became impossible to find. I ultimately went the hand load route.

Upgrades are a personal thing. Some swear by them and others do just fine without them. I do recommend grabbing a quality bipod. Spend money on ammo and practice often. You do not need to shoot 100s of round per practice (NOT plinking) session. Work your fundamentals as any flaws become more pronounced the further you shoot. You could also look at a shooting class or two.

As far as maximum range, there is a skill component (practice, practice, practice) and an ammunition component. Nosler Accubonds are popular and effective but are not that great for long range. Not adjusting for environmentals and not chronographing it in your rifle, you'd be looking at about 700 yards or so before it dips below 1800 fps.

Interesting to hear about certain ammo not fitting in the tikka magazine. I didn’t know that was a thing. Thanks for the other pointers as well

 

[AZ_Hunter_2000]

It's more of a precaution than anything. Sucks buying ammo that you cannot use and cannot return. My T3X 6.5 CM loves commercial ELD-X but I figured I try a box of Bergers and a box of ABLR just to see. I was unable to chamber any of those 40 rounds so I just gave that ammo away. Not a magazine length issue but something else to be aware of.

The 180 grain TTSX and 200 grain ELD-X both fit the magazine. However, the TTSX is 1/16" shorter where as the ELD-X is "right there".

Here is a comparison between commercial ELD-X for a 300 Win Mag and a 6.5 CM. Both are T3X rifles and factory magazines.

 

[PNWGATOR]

Get ahold of Jake at Unknown Munitions and see what he has for a Tikka in 300 WM. His product will be superior to any other off the shelf factory ammo.

Limbsaver recoil pad.

 

[Goatie]

1) try as we might, no single hammer is gonna pound all nails WELL
2) lots of shooting gets a guy to shoot consistently to a 1k, and shooting needs to be fun to shoot lots
3) buy it, shoot it, you’ll learn what stuff really matters

If I were you I’d buy a 308 or similar caliber with a decent ffp scope and shoot the piss out of it. I can’t think of an animal within NA that, when shot under 300 yards, will not be recovered quickly via that type of cartridge. If I’m wrong, you can trade in the lighter SA rifle for a heavier recoiling similarly weighted magnum caliber, and you’ll only lose about $100 or so. You’ll save about $2k in ammo savings, experience, and OOP deductibles on orthopedic surgery.

Also not sure where the $2500 price tag is coming from. Basic Tikkas are about $600 and a more than capable scope for the rifle would be under $1k if you keep your eyes peeled for exactly what you want. That would leave about $700 under budget for a good rangefinder (you’ll need one to shoot distance and gather dope), a shooting class, cases of ammo, or my personal favorite... a custom stock for when you start really enjoying target shooting and want to treat yourself because that’s what we do... we tinker when things get monotonous. If you shoot enough you’ll figure out which part makes the most sense to you.

Then again... $700 gets a guy a good start on the next rifle... maybe a magnum.

P.S. muzzle brakes are the worst. That reminds me of another place that $700 could go towards. It rhymes with “shmilencer“.

 

[Josh86]

1) try as we might, no single hammer is gonna pound all nails WELL
2) lots of shooting gets a guy to shoot consistently to a 1k, and shooting needs to be fun to shoot lots
3) buy it, shoot it, you’ll learn what stuff really matters

If I were you I’d buy a 308 or similar caliber with a decent ffp scope and shoot the piss out of it. I can’t think of an animal within NA that, when shot under 300 yards, will not be recovered quickly via that type of cartridge. If I’m wrong, you can trade in the lighter SA rifle for a heavier recoiling similarly weighted magnum caliber, and you’ll only lose about $100 or so. You’ll save about $2k in ammo savings, experience, and OOP deductibles on orthopedic surgery.

Also not sure where the $2500 price tag is coming from. Basic Tikkas are about $600 and a more than capable scope for the rifle would be under $1k if you keep your eyes peeled for exactly what you want. That would leave about $700 under budget for a good rangefinder (you’ll need one to shoot distance and gather dope), a shooting class, cases of ammo, or my personal favorite... a custom stock for when you start really enjoying target shooting and want to treat yourself because that’s what we do... we tinker when things get monotonous. If you shoot enough you’ll figure out which part makes the most sense to you.

Then again... $700 gets a guy a good start on the next rifle... maybe a magnum.

Thanks for the insight. To add to my post I’ve already purchased the rifle and scope just waiting for them to arrive. The Tikka T3x .300 win mag ran me $900 shipped the extra cost was due to the fact it’s the new roughtech model that comes with the fluted barrel, fluted bolt and factory muzzle break. I know the $600 version probably shoots just as well by I really like the looked of the new model. The Nightforce scope and nightforce rings was right at $1,100 So I’m at $2k and figured I’d have another $500 in the setup with a bipod or other accessories. I have a decent rangefinder and can shoot my 30-06 pretty comfortably out to 400 with factory ammo. One reason I opted for the .300 WM is that I have a Yukon moose hunt planned for 2022 and felt like it would be nice to have the extra knock down power if a longer shot was needed. I’m the type of guy that only has a few guns I do have get put to good use. I’d rather buy something on the higher end that I can grow into than buy two different rifle one of which would probably collect dust in the safe. If I cant handle the recoil I guess I’ll sell the rifle and go a different route.

 

[Rifles And More]

The long range stuff is a wind game - the only way to get good is to shoot and shoot a lot. Whether or not 300WM is comfortable for long sessions is up to you.

Without reloading, I would find the cheapest ammo that get closest to MOA performance and shoot the heck out of it. Even if it is a little bigger than MOA. You will find that a ten shot group gives you a real picture of the rifles capability and consistency.

Shoot the cheap stuff and learn wind calls. When it comes time to go hunt switch over, run a few boxes at the range, verify drops and go with confidence.

Best mod - get a cheek pad/riser and get comfortable and consistent behind the scope. Also, a good chronograph.
What range - you will have to find that out for yourself.

Enjoy the new gun and have fun shooting.

 

[tdhanses]

Recoil won’t be bad on it, sounds like a great setup. I would get a few boxes of quality factory ammo and just shoot. I would consider upgrading this factory stock at some point if you shoot it a lot.

 

[Josh86]

I’ve been using a Bradley cheek piece on one of my Tikkas. Would help out with the 56mm bell.
All my Tikkas with factory stocks have the vertical grip. It’s inexpensive andvv BBC a great addition.

Side note: I have the F1 SHV 4-14 and absolutely love it.


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I ordered a vertical grip to swap out and I think I’ll add a cheek piece haven’t decided which one to go with. I kinda like the design of the triad stock pack and being able to house extra ammo in it while I’m hunting. May eventually change out the stock but don’t want to dump to much more money into it.

 

[Rokbar]

I've mainly heard nothing but good about Tikka's. The .300 wm will serve you well if you do your part. The muzzle brake will REALLY cut down on the recoil, but man they are loud. Get you some good hearing protection. If I ever get another rifle, I'll seriously look at the Tikka's. Do you know what the rifle weighed before the scope was put on?

 

[Josh86]

The bare rifles weighs 6.8lbs and just under 9lbs with the scope and rings.

 

[Lawnboi]

Plugs and muffs at the range. Noise and concussion will cause a flinch just as fast as physical recoil.

 

[wind gypsy]

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These are another good option and lighter than the stock pack.

I use triad stock packs, AG cheeky bastard, and the beartooth comb raising kit on various rifles. They all work. You have to tape or use the sticky first aid gauze under the beartooth one to keep the foam in place..

 

[Ramtough14]

+1 on the limbsaver.