Bedding Defiance Anti

[SDHNTR]

Done plenty of bedding jobs, but never an AnTi. The only thing that’s weird is that hollowed out recoil lug. I don’t want any mechanical lock. There isn’t enough surface area to stick tape to to seal off the hollow part. Modeling clay makes a giant mess when it gets mixed with epoxy. How do I seal off those voids in the lug?

 

[Macintosh]

I don’t know that action, and I’m not familiar with the lug, but I’ve always used modeling clay. Press the clay into a recess in the metal part, and then cut it off with a razor blade so it’s perfectly flat. Spray it with your release agent just as you would with the metal. If you chill it a little bit in the fridge or freezer, it will make it quite hard, and you won’t have the epoxy press into it either. I’ve never had a problem with it causing a problem with epoxy when done this way.

 

[wapitibob]

With my Anti I used clay in the pockets then 1 continuous piece of gorilla tape that covered the btm of the lug and up the face of the lug. I don't tape the sides of the lug; I want bedding contact to prevent action rotation at the shot. The clay I have is old and pretty hard, it doesn't compress when the tape goes on.

 

[rcook10]

Paste wax also works fine fyi!

 

[SDHNTR]

Paste wax also works fine fyi!

You don’t understand the question obviously. This isn’t a 700.

 

[SDHNTR]

With my Anti I used clay in the pockets then 1 continuous piece of gorilla tape that covered the btm of the lug and up the face of the lug. I don't tape the sides of the lug; I want bedding contact to prevent action rotation at the shot. The clay I have is old and pretty hard, it doesn't compress when the tape goes on.

The tape sticks to the clay well enough to stay in place? And you are talking about the black, gorilla duct tape? That stuff is really thick. Or gorilla brand blue painters tape?

 

[rcook10]

You don’t understand the question obviously. This isn’t a 700.

Thanks dick, you sure have it all figured out. You can literally just pack the hollows with past wax so the epoxy cant press in. I use past wax to fill all the major voids and spaces i don’t want to fill with epoxy and it has worked on every action i have bedded including two antis. You can also use hot beeswax and melt it in place if you are really concerned your epoxy will fill the space. I also recommend using less epoxy in the lug area and only aplying it to the rear and side faces.

 

[Article 4]

I have done quite a few. I use modeling clay and let it dry, shave it perfectly flat, then coat it with copious release agent and go about the rest of your process. If you let it dry a bit and then coat, it will release

 

[SDHNTR]

Thanks dick, you sure have it all figured out. You can literally just pack the hollows with past wax so the epoxy cant press in. I use past wax to fill all the major voids and spaces i don’t want to fill with epoxy and it has worked on every action i have bedded including two antis. You can also use hot beeswax and melt it in place if you are really concerned your epoxy will fill the space. I also recommend using less epoxy in the lug area and only aplying it to the rear and side faces.

Wow. You’re that sensitive to resort to name calling? Epoxy, especially marine Tex, is way thicker and stiffer than the paste wax. It’ll push through.

 

[SDHNTR]

I have done quite a few. I use modeling clay and let it dry, shave it perfectly flat, then coat it with copious release agent and go about the rest of your process. If you let it dry a bit and then coat, it will release

That makes sense. I’m not sure how much the modeling clay I have actually dries and hardens up, but I will try.

 

[JCMCUBIC]

I've used modeling clay with electrical tape on front (over clay), bottom, and sides. I had no problem with it like that on 3 of them.

 

[Jason Snyder]

I use Devcon for bedding and have never had an issue with it pushing into or through the modeling clay.

 

[SDHNTR]

I use Devcon for bedding and have never had an issue with it pushing into or through the modeling clay.

I’m not worried about it pushing through the clay, it was the Johnsons Paste Wax I said that about.

My concern with the modeling clay is that in my experience, even with release agent, some clay residue gets stuck to the epoxy and leaves a sticky mess.

 

[Shooter264]

I’ve done a ton of them and a simple layer of masking tape works fine. Never filled the voids with anything.

 

[wapitibob]

The tape sticks to the clay well enough to stay in place? And you are talking about the black, gorilla duct tape? That stuff is really thick. Or gorilla brand blue painters tape?

Gorilla tape, not duct tape. Yea, it's thick but I only use it on the btm and front. It sticks to the stainless webbing portion of the lug in the front. When you pop the barreled action the tape usually stays behind but I use johnson paste wax as a release agent so it comes out with a pick.

 

[fatbacks]

I used silly putty in mine and it worked great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Decker9]

I filled mine with plumbers putty then a layer of masking tape over the putty, worked good.

 

[Sevens]

Used my daughter’s play-doh to fill the void covered by a layer of painters tape. Worked great.

Don’t forget your release agent. I like paste floor wax.

 

[SDHNTR]

What about the recesses on either side of the trigger well in the receiver? Do you guys dam that up with clay? Or let the epoxy fill in and have it act like rear lugs?

I starting filling those voids with clay, but now I’m not so sure I should.

 

[SDHNTR]

Just popped it out. Will clean up nice.