Bear kodiak out of tune

[shanew1668]

I started shooting the recurve this year, it’s a 1957 bear kodiak recurve. I finally started shooting decent, have have a well tuned arrow and then next time I shoot the bare shaft will be showing too strong so I adjust the brace height until it’s coming out straight and then next time I shoot it’s showing too weak. Part of this is probably me but Could unstringing the bow after every time shooting cause the brace height/ tune to change even though the string isn’t coming off of the limbs? Would leaving this bow strung be harmful considering it’s age?

 

[Jagger0502]

You could tell if the brace is moving by measuring the string to the bow and check it each time. It is possible you are twisting the string and it is untwisting when you restring it or if the string is older it might be stretching.

Leaving a recurve strung doesn’t hurt the bow much in my opinion. If you leave it strung for years or in a damp basement it might weaken the limbs over time but during the season I have mine strung for most of it and have never had issues. I do unstrung it if I don’t plan to shoot it for a few weeks but for almost two months it is strung and shot daily during the season.

 

[Rob5589]

How long have you been shooting a recurve?

 

[Beendare]

Yeah, to diagnose your issue it would help if you gave more information on your setup, experience level how are you shoot the string material what arrow spine, all of that.

 

[shanew1668]

Been shooting most days for around 4 months now. Its a 52" recurve 52 lb at 28" but im around 27" draw. Current arrow set up is an axis 5mm .340 with 50 grain brass insert and 200 grain head. around 525 gr total weight. I put on an ABB flemish series string which is BCY D97 i believe. I started with easton 6.5 mm 300 spine with 20 gr insert and 250 grain field points just to get some cheaper arrows to practice form. I didnt do any tuning until a couple weeks ago and those arrows tuned a bit strong so I went to the 5mm with lighter spine and they came out a lot better. But it seems like everytime i should its tuned differently. The 5mm's and the 6.5's would be tuning very strong one time and then next time they would be very weak. when this happens I would pull longer or shorter to see if I could change the tune but it wouldnt make a difference. The only thing changing to my knowledge is that I am unstringing after everytime I shoot. The loops dont come off of the limbs, I just slide them down so there isnt any twisting/ untwisting of the string. I dont know if the string settles differently every time I put it back on or if my form is that different everytime. I have shot a compound for a long time so I understand shot process and back tension. Im sure I dont have perfect form by any means but I dont think that is changing the arrow that drastically. I hung my bow up yesterday strung after adjusting the brace a half twist to get a straight bare shaft so I will see today if leaving it strung up makes any difference in holding the tune.

 

[Agross]

I would get a longer bow

 

[Tilzbow]

You didn’t mention your arrow length and if the arrow is just longer than it needs to be then you might be over spined, especially with an older bow that’s not cut past center. Those older bows need a lighter spine to flex around the riser. If you’re shooting full length shafts you’re probably okay.

That said since it happens one day and not the next it’s probably you and not the bow. Shooting bare shafts consistently isn’t easy. Heck even after 30 years I‘m still inconsistent but I do know immediately by feel at the release when I shoot a clean arrow and judge those and not others.

Also, older bows aren’t built to use modern string materials and some old bows can break the limb tips and/or cause limb damage. Others can pipe in here since this is something I only read and heard about years ago, but never experienced, when fast flight strings first came out. Depending on what they say, you might want to get a string built with Dacron or some other forgiving material if you can find one.

 

[shanew1668]

You didn’t mention your arrow length and if the arrow is just longer than it needs to be then you might be over spined, especially with an older bow that’s not cut past center. Those older bows need a lighter spine to flex around the riser. If you’re shooting full length shafts you’re probably okay.

That said since it happens one day and not the next it’s probably you and not the bow. Shooting bare shafts consistently isn’t easy. Heck even after 30 years I‘m still inconsistent but I do know immediately by feel at the release when I shoot a clean arrow and judge those and not others.

Also, older bows aren’t built to use modern string materials and some old bows can break the limb tips and/or cause limb damage. Others can pipe in here since this is something I only read and heard about years ago, but never experienced, when fast flight strings first came out. Depending on what they say, you might want to get a string built with Dacron or some other forgiving material if you can find one.

The arrow is cut about 1.5" past the shelf at full draw. I didnt know that about needing to flex around the riser so ill look into that.

 

[Tilzbow]

The arrow is cut about 1.5" past the shelf at full draw. I didnt know that about needing to flex around the riser so I’ll look into that.

I think you’re probably shooting too heavy of a spine and need to drop to at least a .400 spine shaft. It’d be worth a try to get 2 or 3 of those .400 spine arrows or alternatively you could add another 25-50 grains up front of your .340 spine.

For what it’s worth, I shoot a full length, 32.5”, Gold Tip .400 spine shaft with 190 grains up front. My bow is 50# at my 31” draw. It’s modern bow that’s cut past center and it bare shaft and broad head tunes good. I could probably even add another 10-20 grains up front to create a slightly weak shaft which is often more forgiving on traditional bows.

 

[shanew1668]

I think you’re probably shooting too heavy of a spine and need to drop to at least a .400 spine shaft. It’d be worth a try to get 2 or 3 of those .400 spine arrows or alternatively you could add another 25-50 grains up front of your .340 spine.

For what it’s worth, I shoot a full length, 32.5”, Gold Tip .400 spine shaft with 190 grains up front. My bow is 50# at my 31” draw. It’s modern bow that’s cut past center and it bare shaft and broad head tunes good. I could probably even add another 10-20 grains up front to create a slightly weak shaft which is often more forgiving on traditional bows.

I do have IW 25 gr impact collars on the way so I will add those and see if that helps at all. If not I will drop to .400 and try that. I think I have a couple lying around anyway.

 

[Beendare]

Yeah, probably too stiff for those old risers.

The 3 rivers FP test kit will help. Try some 300g On those 340s…but they still might be too stiff. Once you know stiff/weak then you can dial in spine size.

 

[Rob5589]

.340 is too stiff. For reference, I shoot a 32" .340 from a 49lb ILF at close to 30" draw with 200 up front off a springy rest. With your draw length I'd grab a 500 and 400 and do some testing. Keep them full length for now. If you can do slow-mo video with your phone or otherwise, it provides great detail about how the arrow is flying.

 

[Wrench]

I'd suggest;

A string mounted clicker for a draw check.

Physically measure your brace every time.

Video yourself shooting every time for a while.

You will find that you double your knowledge of how to screw up the perfect shot every year. At 4mos in, you could have form or equipment errors....the above will help you isolate them.

Right left misses are almost always draw length issues.