Barrel break in and load development

[Pgohil]

Just ordered a savage 110 7mm mag. Plan to use my 1x Norma brass from another 7mm rm. RL22 and 160 Accubonds. .

What's the best approach to barrel break on, load development and getting the brass fire formed to my chamber???
I don't want to burn up a lot of components either. Thoughts???

Thanks.
PGohil
WV

 

[Ddubs20]

Find some cheaper soft point bullets to fireform. If you can get an idea of what powder charge the barrel likes with the cheaper bullets over a chronograph. Then when you work up a load with accubonds you should be in a similar range.

 

[wapitibob]

Measure a once fired from the new chamber and compare, I have only .002 between two barrels so I swap barrels and use the shot out one for forming virgin brass.

 

[wind gypsy]

If the once fired brass isn't oversized already just size it enough to reliably chamber without resistance and go forth not worrying about fireforming.

As far as break-in procedure, you can read arguments for a couple days straight on the internet about it. I'm not a believer that a break in procedure will do anything that will impact my performance with a given rifle so break-in looks like this:
1. Clean anything that shouldn't be in the bore out of it before first firing
2. Go to range, shoot it as much as you feel like shooting it in a range session.
3. Clean out all carbon/copper fouling when done with range session
4. Shoot it till you feel like it should be cleaned again, usually 100-200x with more overbore cartridges for me and maybe every 300-400 rds on more modest ones.
5. Repeat #4

 

[sveltri]

I was raised a barrel break-in guy, I don’t think it has any effect on accuracy. I do believe that it makes barrel cleaning faster and easier at some point down the road. My only break-in moving forward will only be to get my brass once fired in my gun before beginning load development.

 

[Wrench]

I'd expect to see the thing speed up after 100 or so rounds. Being a savage, it's probably going to shoot fine.

Not burning up bullets, getting the rifle broke in and a load developed are a pick one relationship. You can't have them all.

 

[doverpack12]

Follow what wind Gypsy said above to figure out if the brass fits the new rifle.
I would load some at a medium charge and use those for break in and sighting in. Then start your load development.

I do like to break in barrels and I think a lot of the info on not breaking in is from non factory barrel guys.
I’ve personally watched every barrel get progressively easier to clean.
I start by cleaning all the factory gunk out, it takes a long time.
Shoot once, this is normally my bore sight shot. Clean it until patches come out like they went it, again this will take a long time.
Next I’ll shoot 2-3 and usually be pretty close to hitting point of aim. Clean it 100% again. This time it will take a few less patches than before but still require effort. Repeat shooting 2-3 again and clean, should be easier but still not that fast to clean, shoot another 2-3 etc.
typically about the 10-12 round fired mark when you clean it will still take less patches than previous but you will notice after the first few patches the fouling is basically gone.
That to me says the barrel is smoothing out and whatever was hanging onto the fouling isn’t doing it anymore.
Shoot a 10 round group with your moderate load and see if you are happy that should tell you if you need to change a component in about 20 shots. You will have a good idea what the groups are like but cleaning each time will affect those some.

 

[willtim]

Barrel break-in doesn't hurt so why not do it.

 

[wind gypsy]

Barrel break-in doesn't hurt so why not do it.

If a guys time isn't limited, i'd agree. I don't get enough range trips and cleaning a barrel 3+ times in one would be a waste of one for me.

 

[wind gypsy]

Follow what wind Gypsy said above to figure out if the brass fits the new rifle.
I would load some at a medium charge and use those for break in and sighting in. Then start your load development.

I do like to break in barrels and I think a lot of the info on not breaking in is from non factory barrel guys.
I’ve personally watched every barrel get progressively easier to clean.
I start by cleaning all the factory gunk out, it takes a long time.
Shoot once, this is normally my bore sight shot. Clean it until patches come out like they went it, again this will take a long time.
Next I’ll shoot 2-3 and usually be pretty close to hitting point of aim. Clean it 100% again. This time it will take a few less patches than before but still require effort. Repeat shooting 2-3 again and clean, should be easier but still not that fast to clean, shoot another 2-3 etc.
typically about the 10-12 round fired mark when you clean it will still take less patches than previous but you will notice after the first few patches the fouling is basically gone.
That to me says the barrel is smoothing out and whatever was hanging onto the fouling isn’t doing it anymore.
Shoot a 10 round group with your moderate load and see if you are happy that should tell you if you need to change a component in about 20 shots. You will have a good idea what the groups are like but cleaning each time will affect those some.

I can see how that could be beneficial in theory if a barrel is a little rough. Do you think just cleaning it after every trip to the range for the first 4 or so times out would do the same? Instead of 2-3 rounds, it's getting say 10-50 rounds between cleanings. Would be much more convenient to wait till its home rather than interrupting shooting at the range for cleaning.

 

[doverpack12]

I can see how that could be beneficial in theory if a barrel is a little rough. Do you think just cleaning it after every trip to the range for the first 4 or so times out would do the same? Instead of 2-3 rounds, it's getting say 10-50 rounds between cleanings. Would be much more convenient to wait till its home rather than interrupting shooting at the range for cleaning.

Potentially. I’m not in that big of a hurry and I do think there is something to the lower side of rounds fired per trip/cleaning at least for a few. I only shoot at the range then load and clean during the week at my house.
Counting patches until no visible fouling comes out on a white patch. The count will decrease each cycle even with increased rounds fired. I can’t say if that would hold true at 50 rounds, more than likely 10 or so would work. I wouldn’t do it until after a single shot, clean then 2-3 shots and clean.
Usually I’m messing with other things on the rifle anyway so by the time I get through the barrel process, I about have other things flushed out and am ready to start sending more rounds per trip.
I always have other rifles/loads along so it’s just another on the list that needs X at the range today.

 

[sveltri]

When I did do it, I thought it was interesting to watch the copper fouling migrate through the barrel as it got smoothed out.

 

[wind gypsy]

Potentially. I’m not in that big of a hurry and I do think there is something to the lower side of rounds fired per trip/cleaning at least for a few. I only shoot at the range then load and clean during the week at my house.
Counting patches until no visible fouling comes out on a white patch. The count will decrease each cycle even with increased rounds fired. I can’t say if that would hold true at 50 rounds, more than likely 10 or so would work. I wouldn’t do it until after a single shot, clean then 2-3 shots and clean.
Usually I’m messing with other things on the rifle anyway so by the time I get through the barrel process, I about have other things flushed out and am ready to start sending more rounds per trip.
I always have other rifles/loads along so it’s just another on the list that needs X at the range today.

Is the idea that the rough parts get filled in with copper fouling and are not smoothed out or "broken in" easily because the copper fouling doesn't allow them to be smoothed out?

 

[sveltri]

Is the idea that the rough parts get filled in with copper fouling and are not smoothed out or "broken in" easily because the copper fouling doesn't allow them to be smoothed out?

I always assumed that was why it was shoot 1 and clean for 5-10 shots do that things could be be "smoothed out" and not protected or cushioned by copper fouling.

 

[doverpack12]

Is the idea that the rough parts get filled in with copper fouling and are not smoothed out or "broken in" easily because the copper fouling doesn't allow them to be smoothed out?

All I know is that rifles tend to clean easier for me if I go through the process I outlined above compared to rifles I haven’t done that with. These are standard factory rifles, not custom, semi custom or high end factory.
The last was a Tikka and noticeably improved each cycle

 

[SloppyJ]

When I did do it, I thought it was interesting to watch the copper fouling migrate through the barrel as it got smoothed out.

Did you scope it after every firing/cleaning session?

I'll be following the Proof break in procedure within the next month on my 300prc. I don't have a ton of extra time but I figure it can't hurt with the proper tools and a bore guide. Definitely not looking forward to it.

My last barrel on my .308, I just let it eat and cleaned it after every range session for the first few. I'm talking really clean. Even some Kroil and compound with felt pellets after the first. That sucker is a tack driver now. Begs the question, if you lightly lap it first, would that help? Now this was a factory savage varmint barrel. Not sure I want to lap my new proof.

The last barrel I "broke in" was my model 70 30-06. It's quite possibly the worst barrel I've ever owned on one of the prettiest rifles I've owned. That SOB is a copper mine. It's going to get rebarreled as my next project.

 

[sveltri]

Did you scope it after every firing/cleaning session?

Yes, I don’t know another way to confirm a barrel is clean.

 

[melancon]

I've seen video interviews and articles from Bartline, Brux, and Kreiger saying the only reason they have a barrel break in procedure is because the public as a whole has demanded it, but they see no real reason to do any type of regimented break in as long as you are buying a quality barrel.

 

[doverpack12]

I've seen video interviews and articles from Bartline, Brux, and Kreiger saying the only reason they have a barrel break in procedure is because the public as a whole has demanded it, but they see no real reason to do any type of regimented break in as long as you are buying a quality barrel.

I would agree on that quality level of barrel no need to break in. What you are achieving with breakin by using your bullets on a cleaned barrel has already been done for you with those manufacturers, they just use a different method.

 

[melancon]

I would agree on that quality level of barrel no need to break in. What you are achieving with breakin by using your bullets on a cleaned barrel has already been done for you with those manufacturers, they just use a different method.

Pretty mush exactly what the big 3 said as well. I only shoot .308 but neither my Krieger nor my Bartlein needed any weird break in process...yes velocity changed and leveled out around 200 rounds but that was without any shoot 1 clean shoot 5 clean voodoo magic. buy a good barrel and dont worry about that break in garbage