Bare shaft tuning issue?

[mww982]

I am shooting a Mathews V3-31. 28" Draw length, cams maxed out at 65lbs. Arrows are day six 300 spine, cut 27" carbon to carbon, 100 grain collar system, 125 grain tips. I got my fletched arrow shooting bullet holes at the shop I go to. I was in my back yard messing around with bare shaft tuning at 20 yards. Bare shaft was hitting the target with the tail left. After a small adjustment with my rest, QAD MX, to the right. Bare shaft impacted right next to the fletched shaft, but still tail right. Could this be a form issue or is it more likely that I am under spine? Was getting ready to build my hunting arrows with the set up but if it is a spine issue, thinking I may need to go with the 50 grain collar system over the 100 grain. Thoughts?

 

[PMcGee]

Move your rest a little more and see if it clears it up. You can also turn your bolts out to see if it gets better. If I have a BS and fletched together at 20yds I don’t worry if the BS is slightly tail left or right. BS is very grip sensitive. Shoot your broadheads and see how they shoot.


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[406unltd]

If the shots feel good and the outcome is consistent then I’d say your spine is ok.

CS 13/16, shim the cam left. Top first, and if it is already left then most likely you can go to the next size for more adjustment. If it persists do the bottom as well. If a small adjustment is needed after that then bump rest.

 

[sndmn11]

Don't worry where about alignment, worry about poi.

Go back to 30, then 40.

 

[fatlander]

I’d be really surprised if you’re under spined at those specs.


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[mww982]

I set everything back to the initial specs after adjusting my rest. I moved my rest maybe 4-5 clicks on the horizontal adjustment, and if my math is correct was less than 1\64th of an inch to the right to get the bare shaft and fletch shaft touching one another. The nock was still coming across to the left of the fletched arrow shaft. This is the first time I have ever tried to bare shaft tune, why I am asking questions. With previous bows, I normally French tuned them and had pretty good results. Wanted to try something different with this one. Plus I like to tinker with things.

 

[mww982]

I’d be really surprised if you’re under spined at those specs.


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That's what I was thinking. I ran the specs through archers advantage and OT2 before cutting the arrows. Both came as optimal spine.

 

[Samdemarais]

Screw a fixed blade broadhead on a fletch arrow and move back to forty.

 

[TX_hunter]

You should be ok on spine, but you can check that by taking a couple turns out of the limb bolts.

What kind of target are you using? If it's a bag target you can't really pay attention to the angle of entry, just point of impact.

 

[Dennis]

I too like tinkering. I have spent a lot of time bare shaft tuning my Mathews V3 at 65 lbs. and 29.5" draw length. My suggestion is start with a field tip test kit which includes field tips every 25 grains from 100 to 300 grains. Then test each field tip weight on a bare shaft to see what flies best through paper or a target butt (non layered foam) that doesn't change impact angle. Once you find which tip weight (insert and field tip weight combined) fly best, providing your total weight and FOC are to your liking build that.

The process can also point out grip, form and release issues that can also effect arrow flight issues, however this allows you to identify those issues as well. Good luck

 

[mww982]

You should be ok on spine, but you can check that by taking a couple turns out of the limb bolts.

What kind of target are you using? If it's a bag target you can't really pay attention to the angle of entry, just point of impact.

Using a Rinehart block target. Its fairly new and not blown out by broadheads yet.

 

[Dennis]

How far are you shooting (7 yards) and is is target eye level?

 

[mww982]

How far are you shooting (7 yards) and is is target eye level?

20 yards, shooting up touch up hill. Haven't tried shooting that close in.

 

[Cmf0403]

Unless your shooting broadheads on bare shafts for hunting, I wouldn't worry. It's good enough. Screw broadheads onto your fletched shafts and broadhead tune.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I don't pay much attention to bareshaft angle of impact, just point of impact relative to the fletched shaft. Wind and inconsistencies in the target medium can affect the angle and make you think there's a problem when there isn’t. I'd call it good on bareshaft tuning and move on to broadhead tuning...broadheads are the true test.

I highly doubt arrow spine is causing any issue. qSpine says your current setup is slightly stiff. Not that a spine calculator is infallible, but being only .014" off of calculated "optimal" spine is a good indication that you're in the ballpark...plenty close enough to get a good tune. Play around with field point weight and/or draw weight and see if anything improves if you really think spine might be an issue.

Bow inputs: 342 fps IBO, 75# DW, 28" DL, 31" ATA, 6" BH, 85% LO
Arrow inputs: 27" C2C, 225 gr on front, 30 gr on back

 

[mww982]

I don't pay much attention to bareshaft angle of impact, just point of impact relative to the fletched shaft. Wind and inconsistencies in the target medium can affect the angle and make you think there's a problem when there isn’t. I'd call it good on bareshaft tuning and move on to broadhead tuning...broadheads are the true test.

I highly doubt arrow spine is causing any issue. qSpine says your current setup is slightly stiff. Not that a spine calculator is infallible, but being only .014" off of calculated "optimal" spine is a good indication that you're in the ballpark...plenty close enough to get a good tune. Play around with field point weight and/or draw weight and see if anything improves if you really think spine might be an issue.

Bow inputs: 342 fps IBO, 75# DW, 28" DL, 31" ATA, 6" BH, 85% LO
Arrow inputs: 27" C2C, 225 gr on front, 30 gr on back
View attachment 389008

Same reading I got on pinwheel and the OT2 desktop version. Archery advantage showed it to be optimal as well as the spine chart from Day Six put me in the 300 spine with the 100 grain system with 125 grain field points.

As stated before, a very slight adjustment to the right, 1/64 of an inch or less got my bare shaft impacting with my field point at 20 yards, the angle of the bare shaft was what concerned me the most. I'll mess around some more with the arrows I currently have built before building the next set.

 

[bojangles808]

shoot 2 or 3 bareshafts at the same spot. do they hit together with the same orientation? if they do you can eliminate form as a possible cause. if they dont hit the same or close its probably your form. if you think its a stiff spine then you can increase poundage by a bolt turn and see what it does.

 

[sndmn11]

I don't pay much attention to bareshaft angle of impact, just point of impact relative to the fletched shaft. Wind and inconsistencies in the target medium can affect the angle and make you think there's a problem when there isn’t. I'd call it good on bareshaft tuning and move on to broadhead tuning...broadheads are the true test.

I highly doubt arrow spine is causing any issue. qSpine says your current setup is slightly stiff. Not that a spine calculator is infallible, but being only .014" off of calculated "optimal" spine is a good indication that you're in the ballpark...plenty close enough to get a good tune. Play around with field point weight and/or draw weight and see if anything improves if you really think spine might be an issue.

Bow inputs: 342 fps IBO, 75# DW, 28" DL, 31" ATA, 6" BH, 85% LO
Arrow inputs: 27" C2C, 225 gr on front, 30 gr on back
View attachment 389008

Listen to @Mighty Mouse and myself. The angle in the target is meaningless.

The ONLY thing you care about is impacting with fletched out to 40-60, and somewhere in that window you will see them separate vertically. At that point you only care about them being plum to the fletched.

I do this all the time, and angle of the shaft can be manipulated by many things that have nothing to do with how well the bow is tuned.

 

[mww982]

shoot 2 or 3 bareshafts at the same spot. do they hit together with the same orientation? if they do you can eliminate form as a possible cause. if they dont hit the same or close its probably your form. if you think its a stiff spine then you can increase poundage by a bolt turn and see what it does.

I misspoke earlier, they are tail right. I did shoot a few and two hit right next to one another and the other slightly high. They were all pointing the same direction though.

 

[mww982]

shoot 2 or 3 bareshafts at the same spot. do they hit together with the same orientation? if they do you can eliminate form as a possible cause. if they dont hit the same or close its probably your form. if you think its a stiff spine then you can increase poundage by a bolt turn and see what it does.

I misspoke earlier, they are tail right. I did shoot a few and two hit right next to one another and the other slightly high. They were all pointing the same direction though.

I misspoke earlier, they are tail right. I did shoot a few and two hit right next to one another and the other slightly high. They were all pointing the same direction though.

I'll shoot a few today or tomorrow and post pictures to give a better idea.