Back Tension issues

Joined
Jan 23, 2014
Messages
934
Location
Wisconsin
I have shot back tension in the past when I shot target archery. I am currently shooting a bow that has limb stops and is very solid at full draw. I was trying to shoot with a back tension the other day and found that I can not get the release to go off. I can pull back enough to get the clicker to go off, but as I squeeze my shoulders together I can not get enough movement to make the release to go off. The only way I can make the release to go off is to rotate the release with my hand.

How can I shoot a back tension with limb stops? Does it need to be set lighter? I really like the solid wall the the limb stops give. To me it lets me know that I am at full draw every time, to help with shot mechanics. Thanks.
 
I'd set it just a hair lighter. Also try relaxing your index finger a little when you're wanting to execute the shot. That'll help with activating the release.
 
Have you checked your DL? If it is a bit long it can make triggering the release more difficult.
 
A here's a few possible answers for you to try.

1) The obvious thing to try is to speed up your release to it requires less rotation.

2) Add more movement to your shot sequence, this requires you look at your hinge a little differently. From what it sounds like you are use to coming to full draw, anchor, start squeezing your shoulders, hear the "click" and treat it as a warning that you're getting close, then keep squeezing your shoulders tighter till your release fires. Instead of treating the "click" as a warning treat it as the starting point for you to start pinching your shoulders together. Your hinge release works off of rotation and it doesn't care how you cause that rotation. So try rotating it another way before the "click". There's a few ways to do this, relaxing your index finger (a method I can't get down), applying pressure with your outer most finger (my preferred), or a combination of the two. Manipulating the release via finger pressure allows you to treat the hinge as a two stage trigger on a rifle. The sequence goes Draw, come to anchor, settle in, take up the slack (the rotation/movement before the "click"), hear the "click", then start pinching your shoulders together for the last bit of rotation before the hinge fires.

3) If the limb stops are adjustable try moving them so you have a little less letoff. Sometimes adding a little extra holding weight can help you with using those back muscles.

4) You might try going a little shorter in your draw length to give your back muscles a little bit of extra room to rotate. It's easier to make that hinge work by being a little shorter than if your draw length is a tad to long.

Hopefully some of these things will help.
 
Thanks for the info. Frustrated after going to shop and shooting my bow next to Hoyt Defiance. I could get the release to go every time with the Hoyt, but struggled with my Strother.

theleo: I think I did what you said in your second point. I came to full draw, rotated the release to click and then squeezed with my back. Now that I am thinking about it, my back may have been maxed out on movement at full draw.

How much would it change shooting with a wrist release if I have to change things to shoot the BT? What would I gain by hunting with a BT release vs a wrist release?
 
Usually you gain a 1/2" of draw length by using the handheld and your anchor point change a bit. Pros and cons vary and seeing you're in Iowa they may not even matter to you if you're mainly hunting white tails from a blind or tree stand. The BT release is easier for you to lose or misplace since it's not strapped to you like a wrist strap release (this rule can vary depending on your BT release), your BT release requires that you draw your bow the same way every time or else it could go off mid draw, and obviously the "click" is an added noise for animals to possibly hear. To me the biggest and ultimately fatal flaw if it were me using your release is the need for the draw to be the same every time. Hunting elk means being ready for things to go wrong and having them come in at weird angles. Sometimes the draw is flat out ugly and I wouldn't want your release in those situations. If you're hunting from a tree stand or a blind that may not be that big of an issue. I've personally switched to hunting with a BT release but it's one with a safety and no clicker. Lots of guys scoff at it from both sides of the debate (wrist strap vs. BT releases) but it works for me and I can hit stuff with it. It all depends on your hunting situations and what works best for you to decide on what release to use.
 
Yes, here in Iowa most of my hunting is from blinds and stands, but I do "still hunt" some. Also on field edges shots can range a little farther than the common 30-40yds. I have seen the releases with the safety on them and would more than likely use one to hunt with, especially if I could just hang the release on the D-loop. The only reason I am using the release that I am right now is that I already had it from when I shot targets in college.

Consistence is what I am looking for plus more accuracy.
 
Consistence is what I am looking for plus more accuracy.
That's all in your head and no one can say what is best for you except you. I personally shoot a thumb release more consistently than a hinge but when I do my part to stay practiced the accuracy is better with the hinge. I can pick up a thumb release after a month or two and be where I left off but the hinge takes a while to get reacquainted with.
 
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