Back Bars for my Athens Convixtion

[robby denning]

Hey guys, I’m going to run my bow for one more year, I’m on a quest to kill a big buck with it before I retire it. It’s been a good bow, shoots better than I can, but always searching for more.

Last year at the western hunting summit Brian Barney convinced me that because I like to shoot a light and short bow like this one, a back bar and longer stabilizer could help me even more.

So I’m willing to give it a shot and I’d like to get it going before our Cold Bow Challenge.

the riser is not tapped for a back bar, just stabilizer, but it does have an unthreaded hole in it.

Have any of you put a back bar on one of these? If so, what would you recommend.

Thanks


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[OR Archer]

You can easily run a back bar mount off the front stabilizer hole. Pair the mount with a front bar quick disconnect they can be easily secured with a longer mounting screw with some star washers. Shrewd makes a great back bar mount.

 

[brandon.andersen]

Check out the BEE Stinger side bar elite mount, or something similar. For the longer front bar, I am using a quivalizer on hunting bow and really like it. I have added a couple of ounces between the hood and the carbon rod. Idaho Archery in Idaho Falls should be able to fix you up.

 

[Rob5589]

I used a Bee Stinger set up on mine using a front stabilizer mount/bracket. Worked well for that particular bow. I'm not using a rear bar any longer and still have the parts if you wanna try before you buy.

 

[Billy Goat]

I don't run anything. I use to run some cross country stuff, but now I'm old and fat. Last thing I ran with a bow involved my truck and it wasn't good.


Lots of companies make v-bar or back bar mounts for bows that utilize the front stabilizer hole. Not too much difference in any of them, but some have a design that isn't as likely to slip around or spin as others.


Personally I don't think it helps much for hunting accuracy. I have shot a lot of bows without any bars and the accuracy difference wasn't substantial. I am happy to send you some stuff I have around for you to try tho. Might give you an idea of if you even like it or not, then you will have an idea of what to look for to "run" on your "rig"......



Ole Robby trying to be hip

 

[Coopsdaddy]

I would bet if you are shooting any distance over 50 they would help,there’s definitely a reason all target archers use them.
Im getting ready to experiment myself with a 15/8 inch combo.

 

[robby denning]

I would bet if you are shooting any distance over 50 they would help,there’s definitely a reason all target archers use them.
Im getting ready to experiment myself with a 15/8 inch combo.

My average range on big mule deer with my bow has been 56 yards, so ya, I‘d like to think it could help

 

[robby denning]

Forgot to tag @rodney482 our Rokslide/Athens guru

@Rob5589
@Billy Goat

big thanks guys, would love to try.

What do you have for loan? Let’s chat about that and decide if/what to send.

 

[robby denning]

Ole Robby trying to be hip

I need all the help I can get—fading fast over here

 

[Jordan]

I’ve shot bee stinger in the past but currently shoot the Conquest CF in the .500. They come with weights and also except other stabilizer weights as well. Fairly easy to adjust and hasn’t moved since I put it on. You can run both stabilizers off the front connection point.

 

[Billy Goat]

I think most single v-bar (side bar, back bar, whatever you choose to call them) mounts can be flipped so they will work on the front stab mounting location or a rear location. Several companies make a mount that is qd and a single piece, beestinger and dead center for example. Just need to decide what you are looking for, like a quick disconnect, which I'd recommend.


Personally I like the Shrewd Atlas. It's got a flat milled into it that braces it against the riser instead of just counting on fastener strength to prevent rotation, im not certain that Doinker doesn't offer the same thing. A few others have a little locking arm that is designed to help anchor it.


Beestinger also has the counterslide system. It's an offset that just uses a longer stabilizer that acts as both a front and rear, just hangs to the side of the riser.

 

[robby denning]

I think most single v-bar (side bar, back bar, whatever you choose to call them) mounts can be flipped so they will work on the front stab mounting location or a rear location. Several companies make a mount that is qd and a single piece, beestinger and dead center for example. Just need to decide what you are looking for, like a quick disconnect, which I'd recommend.


Personally I like the Shrewd Atlas. It's got a flat milled into it that braces it against the riser instead of just counting on fastener strength to prevent rotation, im not certain that Doinker doesn't offer the same thing. A few others have a little locking arm that is designed to help anchor it.


Beestinger also has the counterslide system. It's an offset that just uses a longer stabilizer that acts as both a front and rear, just hangs to the side of the riser.

QD for sure. I didn't explain it and should have but my affinity for a short bow is because of how I carry it slung across my back while riding horseback. So I often remove sights/stabilizer if I'm traveling far to protect the sight and keep it from jabbing me.

from your PM: https://www.beestinger.com/Stabilizers/Hunting/Sport-Hunter-Xtreme-Kit.aspx

and

Buy Microhex™ Counter Slide with Dovetail Mount | Bee Stinger Stabilizers

Microhex™ Counter Slide with Dovetail Mount | Bee Stinger Stabilizers

www.beestinger.com

Thanks! let me read through and think on those and I'll post up

 

[Billy Goat]

QD for sure. I didn't explain it and should have but my affinity for a short bow is because of how I carry it slung across my back while riding horseback. So I often remove sights/stabilizer if I'm traveling far to protect the sight and keep it from jabbing me.

What kind of length have you been using for a front bar? Angled or straight? Do you already have a disconnect on your front? How long do you think you want your overall front bar?


If already using a disconnect you might just purchase a mount that will fit between it and the riser, it will add about 3/8" to your front stab overall length.

 

[Rob5589]

Forgot to tag @rodney482 our Rokslide/Athens guru

@Rob5589
@Billy Goat

big thanks guys, would love to try.

What do you have for loan? Let’s chat about that and decide if/what to send.

Robby, I have the mount, couple of rods, and weights. I believe they're 8" but close to 10" with the mount. I have 6" as well which are closer to 8" with mount. Send me a pm with your address and I'll get it out this week if you're interested. You're a fairly well known Rokslider so I trust you

 

[robby denning]

OK I measured and weighed my current stabilizer and it’s 10 inches long and 8 ounces total. It doesn’t have a removable weight on the end it’s so old but I would guess most of that weight is out at the end.

Haven’t had time to check all those links yet you guys sent but I will. Thank you


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[-bowfreak-]

Are you sold on the back bar setup/already have it in your possession?

What type of release do you shoot and how do you activate it?

 

[robby denning]

Are you sold on the back bar setup/already have it in your possession?

What type of release do you shoot and how do you activate it?

I don't have a back bar, just an old old 8 oz stabilizer, so working with the guys above to get going in that direction.

 

[-bowfreak-]

I don't have a back bar, just an old old 8 oz stabilizer, so working with the guys above to get going in that direction.

Gotcha....the reason I ask is trying to get a bow to hold steady is not as critical to some styles of shooting as others. If you are an aimer vs a puller then getting your pin to hold as steady as possible is important. For me, I don't care if my pin moves because It doesn't make any discernible difference as to where my arrow actually hits. Matter of fact....the less I worry about my pin the better I shoot.

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[robby denning]

Gotcha....the reason I ask is trying to get a bow to hold steady is not as critical to some styles of shooting as others. If you are an aimer vs a puller then getting your pin to hold as steady as possible is important. For me, I don't care if my pin moves because It doesn't make any discernible difference as to where my arrow actually hits. Matter of fact....the less I worry about my pin the better I shoot.

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I’m an aimer/puller and probably why I’m just an ok shot, as pulling with a finger trigger‘s not ideal, but going back to about a decade ago when I started to understand the pull vs. aim, it did help my shooting

 

[-bowfreak-]

I’m an aimer/puller and probably why I’m just an ok shot, as pulling with a finger trigger‘s not ideal, but going back to about a decade ago when I started to understand the pull vs. aim, it did help my shooting

Sounds good. I took the route of trying to get my pin to hold steady and in the long run it was a negative for me. Focusing on working my release vs aimingade the biggest difference for me. Good luck and let us know how it works for you.

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