Arrows left of aim

[Pgohil]

17" satori riser 50lb tradtech limbs. Beeman 340 spine arrows with 150 field points. Actual draw weight at my short draw 43lbs measured.

My arrows are constantly shooting left of my point of aim. I've tried different spines I can't figure out what I need to do differently. I'm brand new at this and still learning. I tend to group 6" and under at 20 yards. But my arrows are predominantly left by 6 to 10 in from the dot. Whatever I'm doing wrong I'm doing it consistently. But I'd like some help in figuring out what the heck it is.

Thanks in advance

PGohil
Wv

 

[galamb]

You say you have tried different spines but 340 sounds like way too much for 43 lbs of draw, 400 with a 150 might still be "stiff" if your arrows are trimmed to your draw length and could maybe get away with a 500 spine.

Hitting that far left when bare shaft tuning is indicative of way too much spine and once fletched a right handed shooter shooting right wing will cause them to move an inch or so further to the left.

You are shooting "off the shelf"? No rest/plunger??

 

[Pgohil]

You say you have tried different spines but 340 sounds like way too much for 43 lbs of draw, 400 with a 150 might still be "stiff" if your arrows are trimmed to your draw length and could maybe get away with a 500 spine.

Hitting that far left when bare shaft tuning is indicative of way too much spine and once fletched a right handed shooter shooting right wing will cause them to move an inch or so further to the left.

You are shooting "off the shelf"? No rest/plunger??

I shot all the way down to a 600 spun to see any effect and couldn't get my impact to move to the right. And through paper they look horrible. The 340 was the only thing that looked pretty good in paper. I am shooting full length arrows to keep the overall weight up. Yes. Straight off the shelf No rest / plunger. Shooting with a tab, three under.

 

[Rob5589]

Likely something with your alignment, or lack of.

 

[Hawkeye29]

Ensure you are lining up the blur of the string with the tip of your arrow. Or at least pay attention to where it is when they hit center.

 

[Blackcow]

To add to the last 2 posts, your alignment can be good, your anchor may not let you see your string blur, and depending on where you anchor and your facial structure, the nock end may be outboard/ right of the tip. In that case the arrow is pointed to the left, and you’ll hit left if aiming off the tip. You can try a slight cant, just enough to get your eye over the arrow and make sure the ass end is behind the front.

 

[GMC]

I'm a 26.5" draw shooting between 45-48 lbs on 3 different bows. All are Ilf risers and I shoot 400's with 300 on the front to weaken them. I think the 340's are way stiff even full length. What's your actual draw length, how much weight do you have on the front of the arrow, and what is the risers centershot cut to? Also, did you shoot a few bareshafts to verify spine is close to what you need?

 

[Blackcow]

Somehow I overlooked that, or forgot. I have a 31” draw, usually shoot 48-51lbs until just recently, and I think my Gillo with uuhkas was the only bow I tuned with 350’s or 340 with less than 275-300 up front. Otherwise it’s .400’s with like just over 200 to 225. Get your eye over the arrow and try a weaker spine again.

 

[Patriot2]

I shoot with my bow and head canted nearly 45 degrees so my eye was looking straight down the arrows. Arrows flying left meant I hadn't canted the bow enough to get my eye placed above the tail of the arrow. I have narrow set eyes so I needed more can't than perhaps is typical. I recommend Ferguson's Become The Arrow as a good read that covers this.

 

[Pgohil]

I'm a 26.5" draw shooting between 45-48 lbs on 3 different bows. All are Ilf risers and I shoot 400's with 300 on the front to weaken them. I think the 340's are way stiff even full length. What's your actual draw length, how much weight do you have on the front of the arrow, and what is the risers centershot cut to? Also, did you shoot a few bareshafts to verify spine is close to what you need?

My actual measure draw length is 23.75. with my compound it's 27. I checked again on my scale and at that exact draw it's at 43 lb. Bareshafts and fletched arrows are grouping together out to 20

 

[Pgohil]

So I started canting my bow more and more and more. And when I got to about 45°, I am getting to the center. But it just feels so wrong canting my bow that much and twisting my head at such an odd angle

 

[Rob5589]

So I started canting my bow more and more and more. And when I got to about 45°, I am getting to the center. But it just feels so wrong canting my bow that much and twisting my head at such an odd angle

I'd try some different anchor points and head position to see if it makes a difference.

 

[Samdemarais]

Same thing was happening to me. String blur alignment fixed it for me.

 

[kfili]

Im thinking head position, especially if canting the bow is making a change. try standing straight up turning your head and bringing your anchor to your face, instead of leaning into your anchor.

 

[PatrickW]

Just plug your bow, draw length, and arrow info into this spine calculator then use it to help you zero in on what shaft you need. It’ll get you surprisingly close to what you need.

3Rivers Archery Supply

Find the perfect arrow to maximize your shooting! Match the dynamic spine of both bow and arrow for optimal arrow performance.

www.3riversarchery.com

 

[Pgohil]

Just plug your bow, draw length, and arrow info into this spine calculator then use it to help you zero in on what shaft you need. It’ll get you surprisingly close to what you need.

3Rivers Archery Supply

Find the perfect arrow to maximize your shooting! Match the dynamic spine of both bow and arrow for optimal arrow performance.

www.3riversarchery.com

I've tried using this, but I don't know what bow information to put in because my Hoyt satori isn't listed. Got any ideas?

 

[Pgohil]

Just plug your bow, draw length, and arrow info into this spine calculator then use it to help you zero in on what shaft you need. It’ll get you surprisingly close to what you need.

3Rivers Archery Supply

Find the perfect arrow to maximize your shooting! Match the dynamic spine of both bow and arrow for optimal arrow performance.

www.3riversarchery.com

I've tried using this, but I don't know what bow information to put in because my Hoyt satori isn't listed. Got any ideas?

 

[PatrickW]

I've tried using this, but I don't know what bow information to put in because my Hoyt satori isn't listed. Got any ideas?

You could try one of the ILF bows listed just to try and get close. Something like the Tradtech ILF Recurve. It’s at the bottom of the list.

It should get you close. From my experience your arrows are Way too stiff now. If your not sure though, try some shots at about 2’-3’. That’ll show pretty quick that you’re overspined. The shafts kick should be magnified at real close range as it comes off the shelf.

 

[Rob5589]

That calculator has to have exact inputs to give a "pretty close" result. The best way I used to check arrow flight and spine was with slow motion video using my phone.

 

[Squints08]

Im thinking head position, especially if canting the bow is making a change. try standing straight up turning your head and bringing your anchor to your face, instead of leaning into your anchor.

I second this. I have to remember to bring my anchor to my face and not my face to my anchor. I also know that head movement once at anchor is no good for accuracy.