Arrows for elk

[Bonecollector_OH]

I went through this a few years ago. After extensive testing, it was determined that heavier arrows will out perform a lighter arrow after passing the 40 yard mark. The further it goes, the better the heavier arrow performs. However, the difference is negligible up to 40 yds. At 60+, if becomes a factor. How far do you plan to ethically shoot? If your shots are under 40-50 yards, then a heavier arrow will only drop more in flight, posing possible deflection in cover, and make estimating yardage more critical.
I have more testing info, but thought I'd give you something to think about....

 

[Pramo]

Before buying any arrows I'd purchase "The Archery Program" or similar and look at the ballistics on what the arrow will do and most importantly the spine. This will save you quite a bit of frustration for getting arrows correct and always go with a stiffer spine if on the boarder.

As far as weight I've shot though an elk with a 2 inch hypodermic at 42 yards and have killed them with razor tricks and viper tricks and arrows from 390 grains to 485 grains. None of the elk said I should have used something different, but those on the internet may say otherwise. Just get a high end arrow, tune your bow to it and then buy a high quality broadhead, I prefer them to be all steel but probably doesn't matter much.

Personally I stay around 280 fps whatever setup it is and feel this gives a good balance of speed and ease of use.

 

[theleo91386]

Another simpler build is
.300 BEA Spartans at 27.5", use the standard steel inserts that are 26 grains. Then run a 125 grain head. It's an easier build and they are a really solid mid weight/diameter arrow. What nice is you can use standard inserts with smaller diameter shaft.

Also, the nock bushing will save you arrows in the long run even though it's "extra weight at the wrong end".

 

[mfllood3800]

I can tell you from experience the following: With my latest set up speed bow
82 yrds, elk full pass thru both ribs, 395 gr skinny arrow at 330 fps with fixed 100 gr broad head,
72 yrds, deer full pass thru and buried in the hill behind it 4" same set up
67 yrds elk full pass through same set up
40 yrds, elk full pass thru

My intention is not to psot an argument but to pin point the most critical fact you need to hear:
your shot placement and consistency

 

[Felix40]

I see a lot of recommendations for black eagle here. My 2 cents is that you don't need to spend that much on arrows. You can get fletched gold tips for less money and I guarantee that you won't be able to tell a difference. They are tough and unless you are an elite shooter they will be more accurate than you.

I'm shooting gold tip kenetic 200s with a 170 grain broadhead. For your draw weight and length I would go with 340s and 125 grain broadheads. That's kind of middle of the road, easy to set up, easy to find broadheads, and will kill any elk out there. It's nice to have a tight pin gap when you don't have time to range an animal. No sense going way heavier than you need to.

 

[Northernpiker]

If you decide on a fixed blade broadhead ( even if you don't ) use a helical blazer, vanes or feathers.

 

[cshore93]

Thanks for all the info so far. I'm trying to disect it all and figure out what the hell I'm doing. This is a lot harder than figuring out the boom stick.

With all of these recommendations, do I buy all of the stuff and put it together myself? Or would I have to take it to a shop? I didn't realize so much went into an arrow.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

 

[mfllood3800]

Gold tips are a proven arrow, cant go wrong with them either.

What I like on the black eagle is the spine consistency from frt to rear. It's consistency value shows up on down range shots where out of tune effects begin to manifest. They are heavier but I am going to make the plunge from 330 speed set ups to try the slower 300-310 set ups with more force needed to stop the arrow. The reason is not cause I am unhappy with my set up, but because I watch the arrows struggle with my set up. They group great at 90 yrds, but I can see them struggle all the way down range. I watch the recovery of the flex and it seems to take longer on my set up then when I shot some PSE heavy arrows. I love my speed set up, but wonder what would happen if the arrow made contact while not at the optimum angle of its reflex dance going down range. I already shoot 300 spine arrows, but these PSE speed bows are hard on shafts. When these cams release it is a major explosion of power. So far I have been fortunate, but I would hate to be the "Crippler".
I don't think I need to drop all the way down to 280. I will be satisfied for now to drop to 300. I think I can do that with 125 gr up front, and longer Black Eagle heavier shafts. I will keep my skinny set ups as they penetrate wind obstacles more efficiently on those 100 yrd shots

 

[mfllood3800]

If you have a reputable bow shop let them do it your first go around. If they aren't that good, you might as well do it your self. You can also order them done up for you from companies like Lancaster Archery. My spin testing and broad head tuning on their work has all been consistent. I do my own stuff mostly, but don't mind paying the extra few dollars to have it done either. But eventually you should do it so you understand it.

What is your bow speed right now, do you know?

 

[mfllood3800]

northern is right get a vane with helical which is just a twist of the vane when glued on the shaft- helps the arrows directional movements

 

[mfllood3800]

Felix is also correct- you don't need to spend $180 on a dozen arrows, and can still kill elk. I spend that because I can, and because I feel it produces better results further down range. If youre gonna shoot 20-60 yrd shots from a tree stand, perhaps a .003 straightness arrow is sufficient. But if you think you might reach out eventually to 70,80 or 100 yrds, many more important criteria comes into play.
You will learn it all as you go.

Take some ownership of these things yourself so you understand them. But do rely on a good bow shop as well. Join Archery talk forum and get your head filled with so much info you could explode. lol
it is a fun process.
Ive been shooting Bows since 1983. I love what they present and how far they have come to produce a better environment for both hunter and hunted.

 

[Northernpiker]

With all the opinions we've stated it can sound confusing but it's not. As mfllood stated, go to a pro shop and let them set you up. As you become an expect, like all of us, you'll want to try different arrows, broadheads or whatever. Have fun and practice. I would not start by making my own arrows but it is a good way to educate yourself about arrows.

 

[theleo91386]

I see a lot of recommendations for black eagle here. My 2 cents is that you don't need to spend that much on arrows. You can get fletched gold tips for less money and I guarantee that you won't be able to tell a difference. They are tough and unless you are an elite shooter they will be more accurate than you.

I'm shooting gold tip kenetic 200s with a 170 grain broadhead. For your draw weight and length I would go with 340s and 125 grain broadheads. That's kind of middle of the road, easy to set up, easy to find broadheads, and will kill any elk out there. It's nice to have a tight pin gap when you don't have time to range an animal. No sense going way heavier than you need to.

The BEA shafts are actually cheaper than the GT counterparts. 200 spine GT Kinetics (+/-.006) are $139.99 MSRP while the BEA Rampages (+/-.003) 250 spine are $117.99. The Kinetic Kaos are closer in tolerances to the BEA +/-.003 but are $209.99. Your saying BEA is too expensive so go with GT but the math doesn't work that way.

 

[Felix40]

The BEA shafts are actually cheaper than the GT counterparts. 200 spine GT Kinetics (+/-.006) are $139.99 MSRP while the BEA Rampages (+/-.003) 250 spine are $117.99. The Kinetic Kaos are closer in tolerances to the BEA +/-.003 but are $209.99. Your saying BEA is too expensive so go with GT but the math doesn't work that way.

I'm just basing what I say off of going through the arrow shopping process a couple weeks ago. I was able to buy gold tip kinetics for $85 a dozen. I didn't look too hard because the black eagle rampage isn't made stiff enough for me but the best I could find on them was $110.

 

[TurkeyBowMaster]

If money is tote, go with xx75 aluminum arrows. 2117 is a perfect fit. You don't have near the problems out of aluminum...easy to put together, very durable, and more game has been taken with these than all the.carbon put together. Less than 65 a dozen. Solid arrow.

 

[DenRuyter]

Lots of good answers here. There's really not a wrong answer, but I'm shooting an Elite Synergy 65lb limb's set at 62 lbs draw right now and a 28" draw. Similar bow and draw I would say.

After shooting a bunch of different arrows and configurations, I settled on the Black Eagle Spartans with the 30 grain brass weight, 2" AAE vanes with helical, and a slick trick 85gr broadhead. All together I'm at 396grain arrows, and It gave me the best consistency out of the many. I wouldn't trade it but, with that said my bow is only about 262fps so I miss a lot of guys requirement of the magical 280fps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mfllood3800]

Well if you are only getting 260 fps not sure a mechanical broad head is a good idea. Maybe the slick trick as Den sais would be a better option.
The reason is a mechanical needs speed and force to cause the blades to open on contact. Some of the mechanicals today are suppose to be pretty good but a fixed blade like the slick trick or Montec G5 are a good option for that poundage/speed of a bow - if yours is indeed these similar speeds as Den has suggested.

 

[TurkeyBowMaster]

Actually, arrows in the sub 400 grain are not lite...they are extremely lite. Lite is 400 to 475; medium would be 475 to 550, heavy-550 to 700 and really heavy beyond that...some shoot over 1000 for really big game. The trajectory differences between super lite and lite is non existent in some bows. Doesn't make much sense going lower than 400 grains.

 

[mfllood3800]

What is the IBO weight used to generalize bows and categorize their speeds?

 

[mfllood3800]

Std arrow weight used in the IBO range is 300 gr. Like "who can get one that low right"
But it is still the weight used.
So when I state the weights it is really based off that as the starting point.

I would agree anything under 400 is super light. But I would disagree that it "doesn't make much sense".
Its about speed. And less weight is more speed.

The technology of carbon shafts today and the straightness is incredible and speed is a great thing.
I get the whole KE argument and agree with much of it.
Yet KE isn't what weight really brings, rather it is "Force to stop it". I read an article about this argument a couple weeks ago that was written by an engineer. He mentioned that a 22 bullet had more KE than a certain arrow/ bow set up, yet the 22 bullet didn't do anything close the arrow. He goes on to explain the difference of KE and force.

That is what got me thinking about increasing my arrow weight, yet retaining my speed above 300-305. The KE never made sense to me when my arrows at 50 FPS more were consistently doing more damage than my buddies heavier slower set ups. I'm blowing thru and they are sticking out.

We can argue all day about stats and theories, but experience is a powerful thing.