Arrow set up

[Highvoltage1]

Im shooting 60 lbs maxed out , 28” draw and reconfiguring my arrows for an elk hunt. Right now I shoot 30” easton axis 400 spine with blazers (9.0 gpi). My plan is to cut to 26” and add the weighted insert. I guess my question is whether to go 50/75 gr insert and 100/125 head. I don’t want issues with arrow spine but I’d like to get good flight. I’m debating on an exodus or a hybrid like the Hyde. Any suggestions are welcomed. Best wishes

For what it’s worth I haven’t picked up a bow in 10 years so I’m out of the game. Goal is elk for 24’

 

[ResearchinStuff]

you are months behind in your preparation, hopefully you're planning to devote a couple of hours a day to shooting your bow between now and the hunt.

to provide you any useful help we are going to need the actual bow you're shooting. are you able to do the arrow work yourself, or are you relying on a shop?

 

[Highvoltage1]

It’s a quest hammer, I don’t know that I’m months behind, I’ve been shooting. I have a very conservative max yardage for my hunt and as always, if a shot presents itself and I’m not comfortable, I won’t shoot. A friend is going to cut the arrows and install the inserts.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Pinwheel says you're good spine-wise with any head/insert weight combination you mentioned.

I would lean toward a 100 gr head + 75 gr insert simply because 100 gr is slightly more common if you wanted to try out a different head in the future. If you use an Easton 50/75 gr brass HIT with heat reversible glue ("hot melt"), you would also have the ability to easily change your insert weight in the future.

26" C2C shaft w/ 100 gr head, 50 gr insert, 9 gr nock, 3 vanes @ 7 gr/ea:


26" C2C shaft w/ 125 gr head, 75 gr insert, 9 gr nock, 3 vanes @ 7 gr/ea:


Bow specs:

 

[Bump79]

Here's my advice - Don't change the insert. Strip the fletch and cut from that end. I'd only cut to 27".

Just add a VPA collar, put a 125 Exodus on it and call it a day. Don't over complicate it.

 

[Wheels]

I am also shooting 60lb with a 28" draw length, I shoot Easton Axis 340's cut at 28" with standard HIT inserts and 25gr Iron Will collars. 450gr with 100gr point and they fly great and tuned perfect. I think you may want to try 340 shafts with your setup.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I am also shooting 60lb with a 28" draw length, I shoot Easton Axis 340's cut at 28" with standard HIT inserts and 25gr Iron Will collars. 450gr with 100gr point and they fly great and tuned perfect. I think you may want to try 340 shafts with your setup.

You're probably also shooting a much faster bow. OP's bow has a 315 fps IBO speed. If he already has 400 spine shafts, he might as well try them. I think they'll work fine with as short as he's cutting them.

 

[Highvoltage1]

Greatly appreciate the responses. I like the idea of the 75 and 100 head for ease of trying multiple heads. Last time I went I used the exodus full. This time I might try the swept unless I hear otherwise from experience.

 

[butcherboy]

I’m shooting easton fmj 340’s. 68lbs 28” draw. Arrows are cut to 27” using a 50 grain brass hit and 100 grain exodus swept. I used a 75 grain hit last season but wanted a little bit lighter set up this year. TAW is 482. If I used an axis 340 with same components I would be around 433 gr TAW. I don’t use collars.

 

[Beendare]

Putting a heavy insert into a light spined shaft....what could possibly go wrong? Grin

We see these threads all the time where guys can't get BH's to tune and they are always on the cusp of under spined.

OP, there is only 2 rules with BH's;

#1) you never want to be under spined....
#2; you never want to be close to under spined

Personally I wouldn't add any weight to your existing 400 shaft. If you want to add a little weight, then bump up to 340's. [FWIW, adding a lot of tip weight doesn't get you anything- ask any pro in any archery discipline]

The heavier spine gives you a more durable hunt arrow...and they make BH tuning [which is a must] easier.

 

[Highvoltage1]

The way they sit now with blazers and wraps I’m at 422 gr. That’s with a 100 gr point

 

[butcherboy]

Shortening your arrows will stiffen the spine as well. I always shoot a stiffer spined arrow. They definitely make it easier to tune your bow. I think you will be fine with lbs you are pulling especially if you cut 2” off. Probably don’t need to add any extra weight to the front

 

[Marble]

The way they sit now with blazers and wraps I’m at 422 gr. That’s with a 100 gr point

I would shoot that set up any day with a quality 2 blade with bleeders. Something like the Kudu point. It's not too pricey, it's tough and easy to sharpen.

But the point made earlier about being months behind is a good one. Changing to a new setup this close can cause tunning issues you'll be chasing. If you put in the work, you'll be fine.



Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[Bump79]

As @Mighty Mouse demonstrated in Pinwheel - If you cut down to 26" you'll be plenty stiff to shoot a fair bit of front weight. You're arrows are way too long right now and no matter what they need to be shorter.

My position still is the same. Cut it down from the fletched end to 26.5-27", add a VPA (or other light weight) collar with the existing aluminum HIT and use a 100 grain Exodus Swept. Top it off with the vanes of your choice that is >2" in length and >=.5" in height.

Gains from there will be extremely, extremely negligible. I've tried about everything there is to try and there's no magic wand. As @Beendare said the last thing you want to be is underspined. So fix that by shortening your arrow and move on.