Arrow Saw

Joined
Feb 25, 2012
Messages
2,830
Location
Michigan
Die grinder and Unistrut.

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Joined
Dec 16, 2014
Messages
593
Would be nice to have a vee notch on each end to rest see in. Butt the Fletch end against stop and in vee notch and other end in vee notch on top of cutter block centered on the cut off wheel with just enough wheel to cut through the wall thickness of shaft. Otherwise good idea and execution.
 
OP
Brandon Pattison
Joined
Feb 25, 2012
Messages
2,830
Location
Michigan
Would be nice to have a vee notch on each end to rest see in. Butt the Fletch end against stop and in vee notch and other end in vee notch on top of cutter block centered on the cut off wheel with just enough wheel to cut through the wall thickness of shaft. Otherwise good idea and execution.

I did have a notch for the nock end but it walked out. So, I went with a hole. I don’t 100% track you but the thing vibrates a lot.


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Joined
Sep 20, 2018
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7,571
Location
In someone's favorite spot
For 15+ years now, I've used a dremel w/ cutoff wheel clamped in a wood vise on my workbench, and a quick clamp to hold a block with a shallow hole drilled in it on the other end. Works fine. No telling how many hundreds of arrows I've cut this way by now. Maybe thousands. I have an Apple arrow saw, but after the blade disintegrated and shattered all over my garage (a small piece hitting me in the cheek just below the left eye) I don't think I'll ever use one of those again. The RPM's are just much higher than they need to be IMO. I have more control with the Dremel.
 

Ratbeetle

WKR
Joined
Jul 20, 2018
Messages
1,141
For 15+ years now, I've used a dremel w/ cutoff wheel clamped in a wood vise on my workbench, and a quick clamp to hold a block with a shallow hole drilled in it on the other end. Works fine. No telling how many hundreds of arrows I've cut this way by now. Maybe thousands. I have an Apple arrow saw, but after the blade disintegrated and shattered all over my garage (a small piece hitting me in the cheek just below the left eye) I don't think I'll ever use one of those again. The RPM's are just much higher than they need to be IMO. I have more control with the Dremel.

Mind sharing a picture of this set up? I'm trying to visualize what you have going on and just can't make it out.
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2012
Messages
2,078
Location
BC
I've cut all my arrows to length on a table saw for about 40 years. For carbon shafts I use the carbide toothed blade with the most teeth (90 on my 10" saw) but any blade will work. The trick is to rotate the shaft cutting the entire circumference before completing the cut to eliminate the risk a mini splinter at the end. As with anything, practice on an old shaft or by cutting a few over length before making the final cut. To ensure a perfectly square cut I will lightly push the cut end of the shaft into the flat side of the rotating saw blade (inside of the carbide teeth) while rotating the shaft. It smooths the cut end perfectly.

I haven't tried my miter (chop) saw but expect I could make it work as well.

Not knocking arrow saws at all, it just that I have a good alternative to use, plus the table saw has a dust collector in it to minimize carbon dust which is bad for the lungs in quantity.
 

jasonhul

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Aug 19, 2017
Messages
183
For 15+ years now, I've used a dremel w/ cutoff wheel clamped in a wood vise on my workbench, and a quick clamp to hold a block with a shallow hole drilled in it on the other end. Works fine. No telling how many hundreds of arrows I've cut this way by now. Maybe thousands. I have an Apple arrow saw, but after the blade disintegrated and shattered all over my garage (a small piece hitting me in the cheek just below the left eye) I don't think I'll ever use one of those again. The RPM's are just much higher than they need to be IMO. I have more control with the Dremel.

Circling back on this. Would you have some pics to share?


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