Arrow nock moves down as bow is drawn?

[MT257]

Have a v3x 29. The bow is tuned, but I noticed that when the bow is drawn the arrow nock moves down the string between the dloop knots. Is this something to worry about?

 

[Marble]

Take a picture of an arrow nocked on the string.

Most likely you just need a nock point or two added. It sounds like you have too large of a gap between your D loops.

 

[Deleted member 8-15-23]

Yes

 

[MT257]

Take a picture of an arrow nocked on the string.

Most likely you just need a nock point or two added. It sounds like you have too large of a gap between your D loops.

 

[doverpack12]

Sheesh!
Nice thing is you have room to tie in a tied nock point. You want just a tiny bit of play so it doesn’t pinch when drawn but that is excessive.
I’m not sure the bow is tuned with that much gap in there.
Most people like a tied nock on the bottom side so it applies some downward pressure from the arrow on the rest. I actually like a tied nock above and below because it makes d loop changes very simple and I don’t loose my tune I worked so hard for.
You can tie in the nock point or points it’s really simple. If you don’t have material pm me and I’ll drop some in an envelope and mail it to you.
John Dudley has a good video on tied nocking points. It’s basically a double overhand knot on one side of the string then the other, you stack those 3 high then finish it off with a square knot and melt the ends.

 

[Marble]

So if you want to fix it yourself, you can buy some serving material and make some loops around the serving above or below where your arrow sits in between the D loop. Or, what I prefer is to put a small point above and below my arrow. This is usually done before the D loop is tied on.

I'm sure someone will chime in with some better instructions. But your issue is easily solved.

 

[mod-it]

Wow, that is too much gap between your d-loop knots. I would imagine that would cause some elevation accuracy issues on occasion, the nock has too much room to move and change the angle of the arrow to the rest. I'd be surprised if the tune showed that setup to be consistent over several shots. Perhaps a bit of a tight nock fit is helping to keep that from showing.
I also have some concerns about the lower d-loop knot, it looks like the melted ball is much too small and possibly could slip through on you. Most likely when you're drawing so you end up punching yourself in the face. Perhaps it is just the picture angle but it looks sketchy in the pic.
I would recommend putting on a new d-loop and tying a lower nock set as doverpack12 recommended. I would cut the bottom portion of the d-loop from the center serving but leave the top, then nock an arrow with the nock pushed up against the top knot and tie a bottom nock set under the arrow. Leave about one serving diameter gap under the nock when tying the nock set. That will keep your nock point position where it is now. Then remove the d-loop completely and put on a new one. An arrow nock clipped to the string and slide down against the nock set will help to get your new d-loop top knot position back in the same spot. The bottom knot will just go right under the nock set.
I use bcy 3d for serving thread and BCY-24 for d-loop material. *(edited, I previously said I used .018" Powergrip for serving thread, which is true for center serving, but meant bcy 3d for nock sets, tying in a peep, etc.)
Or have a shop do it for you if you're nervous to try yourself. Having a more dependable, consistent setup is more than worth the very slight tuning you may have to do after changing it.

 

[LuvsFixedBlades]

View attachment 564045

Holy buckets man!

It is best practice to use nock sets above and below your nocking point before installing your D-loop. As someone else mentioned, you want a frog's hair of play between the nock sets to avoid nock pinch. On a Mathews V3, the longest ATA they made in that model was a 31" so you will want to keep that super small gap (like a 1/32") to avoid nock pinch. If you have a super short draw length, or are shooting a bow with a long ATA (like 35"+), you don't need to worry about nock pinch as much.

Also, since you are fixing things....you see how there is a big gap between the outer strands of the half hitch on your loop? You should try your best to get those to stack together around the tag ends.

As someone else said, it is very unlikely you will retain a good tune with so much space around the nock. Lemme grab a bow and post a pic. I actually have a V3 laying around somewhere...to make it apples to apples.

 

[LuvsFixedBlades]

 

[LuvsFixedBlades]

I use BCY 3D exclusively for any hand tied servings, like nock-sets, peeps and serving rest cables into buss cables.

Hope this helps.