Arrow insert removal

[paxamus]

Does anyone have any tips for removing an insert/outsert that was glued with Easton HIT epoxy? Had an arrow that I was going to change an insert on and don’t want to ruin the whole thing


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[2Stamp]

drill bit, just slightly smaller than the inside diameter. put it in the nock end, and while holding onto the nock end, swing the arrow out and down (like swinging a hammer) so the bit slides against the insert. It takes a few-ish hits for it to come out. caution, if you're not paying attention, both the insert and the bit will fly across you garage, hit things, and possibly disappear.

 

[paxamus]

Thanks. I’ll try it


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[Read1t48]

Drill bit for me. Swing it toward the ground into a pillow. And not near a window! You'll definitely get it out and a decent # of swings, and will probably have to use a wire brush to remove any residue on the inside, but it will be good as new.

 

[BigCountry49]

Screw in a field point, heat it up with a lighter, then pull it out.

 

[AZ_J]

All right. I tried the drill bit method. and the lighter on a field tip with the drill bit. All methods seemed wayyyy too laborious after trying on just one arrow when I had (24) total to do. All with easton HIT epoxy.

What really worked for me was getting some small metal rod from ace that was just longer than the arrow when inside up against the insert. Next I heated up the field tip, then put the metal rod inside and smacked the tube on a table to push the insert up and out, this was by far the easiest method I found. Let the arrows soak in a cup of acetone where the insert used to be and then start the rebuilding process.

 

[Ucsdryder]

Man that sounds sketchy. Heating the carbon shaft, then pounding on it. Then soaking it in acetone. Sounds like a recipe for disaster.

 

[AZ_J]

Ucsdryder -

1. You only heat the field tip enough to break the bond of the glue, or in my case weaken it, because there was no such thing as breaking the bond or else I would have done the pliers method and just pulled them out. There is no direct heat on the carbon. I know of some people have complained about the carbon splintering at the end of the shaft. I did not, nor did any other person I knew experienced this. It could have been pre-existing from the initial cut being poor, IDK.

2. I wasn't pounding on the carbon, I was pounding on the insert from inside the carbon. Carbon is extremely stiff and takes impact loads very well. That's why it is used for arrows. Not sure why you have reservations here. But it definitely looked like a violent process from my Dads point of view as he described it. So I get your comment.

3. Acetone won't damage your arrows. They were only soaked for a minute or two on the first 3 inches from the tip side to clear any leftover epoxy still in there.

 

[2Stamp]

Its never taken me more than about 5-7 swings to drive one out. It's not that labor intensive. But to each their own.

I've also tried the heated insert method and did not like how warm the carbon gets in that area.

 

[Sled]

drill bit on the blunt end seemed the safest and is what i do if i plan on shooting the arrow again. heat them up if you're looking to save only the insert.

 

[neverquit]

The drill bit truck will make short work of an insert but The pillow is key. Or you might crack the tile in your kitchen...ask me how I know

 

[TheCougar]

Drill bit doesn’t always work. I’ve got brass inserts in my Spartans and the drill bit flares out the softer brass from the impacts, which inevitably breaks the shaft before the insert pops out.

 

[Reburn]

I used BSI IC-2000. I can not get my inserts out. The end of the shaft will break before the insert comes out. Ask me how I know. Using the drill bit method. If it doesnt come out in 5-7 good swings its not gonna.

 

[success]

I tried the drill bit on 6 5mm fmj. I was only successful on one of them. It was a pain in the ass. The hit inserts were glued in with Easton epoxy.