Arrow Cut-off Length?

[Highcountry_Hellrazor]

I usually cut my arrows so they're as short as possible. Usually they're about at the middle to back of my riser. I do this to retain stiffness in the spine, and less weight on my arrow setups. I shoot broadheads like this too because I live life on the edge ha. Does anyone have this same philosophy?

 

[miller1]

I usually cut mine so they are 1"in front of my rest when it is in the up position.

 

[OR Archer]

Nope. Cut mine so they are flush or about 1/4" in front of my riser. I hear horror stories every year from customers who end up torquing the crap out of their bow in the heat of the moment and catching broadheads on their riser and pulling the arrow off the string. Not to mention cutting them short like that makes timing of drop away rests even more critical.

 

[Coyote Commander]

If I can keep the spine right, I prefer mine long enough so the broadhead never enters into the shelf.

 

[tipsntails7]

I cut them to spine. If you are all over the shelf with your grip then I would cut them long. But I remember using overdraws, so I'm no to worried if the head goes into the shelf.

 

[tipsntails7]

Nope. Cut mine so they are flush or about 1/4" in front of my riser. I hear horror stories every year from customers who end up torquing the crap out of their bow in the heat of the moment and catching broadheads on their riser and pulling the arrow off the string. Not to mention cutting them short like that makes timing of drop away rests even more critical.

OR why does it make the drop away timing more critical? Drop aways are set up against the draw cycle. Wether your shooting 30" or 26" arrow, the rest should still drop at the same time?

 

[Terrapin]

I leave them about an inch long so I can't over draw them past the rest (adrenaline can do amazing things) and in case I grow anymore.... but I guess at 40 that ship has sailed.

 

[OR Archer]

OR why does it make the drop away timing more critical? Drop aways are set up against the draw cycle. Wether your shooting 30" or 26" arrow, the rest should still drop at the same time?

If you have a short arrow you have to have the drop away pick up the arrow faster. This can lead to fletch contact due to the fact you have to shorten the draw cord. Typically to maximize your fletch clearance on most standard drop away rests you want the arrow to be picked up in the last 1-1.5" of the draw cycle. This will make the rest fall faster. This only applies to a standard type of fall away rest like a Trophy Taker. Its not an issue with rests like a QAD or limb driven as they are activated differently. Hopefully that made sense haha

 

[tipsntails7]

If you have a short arrow you have to have the drop away pick up the arrow faster. This can lead to fletch contact due to the fact you have to shorten the draw cord. Typically to maximize your fletch clearance on most standard drop away rests you want the arrow to be picked up in the last 1-1.5" of the draw cycle. This will make the rest fall faster. This only applies to a standard type of fall away rest like a Trophy Taker. Its not an issue with rests like a QAD or limb driven as they are activated differently. Hopefully that made sense haha

Gotcha, I've only used QAD and limb drivers so that is where my ignorance came from.

 

[5MilesBack]

Well, I have a 32 1/2" draw and have always cut my arrows at 30" carbon to carbon.

 

[Craig Van Arsdale]

I leave mine long. I like them to be off the shelf just a tad.

 

[Rolo]

I cut mine based on spine. Currently, that leaves them about 3/16" in front of the rest (Versa) which is as far back as it can be on a CS 34. 31"+ DL and a shaft that is right about 28 1/4".

 

[ChadS]

Can someone explain "cut based on spine"? I know a shaft is a 300 spine at x length, and understand that short essentially makes it stiffer. Might be answering my own question here. How do you know how much the spine was effected based on how much you cut?

 

[Rolo]

Can someone explain "cut based on spine"? I know a shaft is a 300 spine at x length, and understand that short essentially makes it stiffer. Might be answering my own question here. How do you know how much the spine was effected based on how much you cut?

I do it by cutting a little bit of the arrow off at a time and shooting to see what the results are. More applicable to my target arrows. For hunting, I pretty much know I'm going to have them short to get them to spine with the arrows I want and the tip weight I want.