doncarpenter
WKR
I thought I would post my system for building arrows. I have learned a lot in the past from build alongs like this and thought it might be helpful for someone down the road. This is my system and probably overkill for many people, but it's the system that I have come to use by trial and error and it works for me.
I have a lot of tools for arrow building and assembly but most of this can be done with a few simple tools and a fletching jig. Most of the time you can get the shafts pre-cut now so there really isn't a need for an arrow saw unless you build a lot of arrows like I do.
The arrows I am building right now are a fairly inexpensive shaft that I will be using for 3D this year. They are not a hunting arrow but they are built very similarly with regard to components.
The arrows are:
-No Limit Burn Stick 300/.001 shafts 9.1 gpi
-35 grain Ethics Archery stainless steel inserts
-Bohning stainless steel bullet points
-Bohning signature nocks
-Q2i Fusion X-II 2.1 vanes 4 fletch
1. Getting the correct length of the arrow.
-I know from using these shafts before and my current bow that 28" carbon to carbon with the point weight I chose that they will spine out correctly. If you're not sure there are software programs that you can use to get you close enough to start. I cut these shafts on my Weston arrow saw. I don't normally cut from both ends unless I know that the shafts are .006 or greater with their straightness tolerance.
2. Squaring the ends. I use a Firenock APS for squaring the ends. There are many cheaper options for this but I haven't used another one that works this well, plus you can choose the grit and size of the sand paper. I square both ends. https://firenock.com/APS/
3. Prepping the shafts for components. I like to use Bohning cool melt glue for my inserts. It allows me to change things fairly easily if something gets broken or damaged or it's not reacting the way that I want.
-The first thing I do is score the inside of the insert end of the shaft to improve adhesion. I use a firearm bore cleaning brush.
-I clean the inside of both ends of the shaft with a Q-tip and acetone. Some manufacturers suggest not using acetone but I have never had a problem damaging shafts. I do this to remove the carbon dust from cutting and sanding.
-The next thing I do is probably unnecessary but i do it because it only takes a minute. I look inside the shaft to find the seam where the carbon has been overlayed in the manufacturing process. I mark the outside of the shafts with a silver sharpie over the seam on the nock end.
4. Prepping the components. Regardless of the components and how they articulate with the shafts, I clean each part in acetone. I do this to remove any oils from manufacture or from my hands from handling.
5. Weighing in. I weigh each component and shaft separately. I then line up the components and shafts in order from lightest to heaviest. Most quality components will weigh very close to their advertised weights but can vary about a grain sometimes.
6. Dry assembly. I assemble the components in order of weight (light shafts with heavy inserts and nocks).
7. Installing the inserts. I have a small propane torch with a Coleman camping size bottle that sits on my workbench without having to worry about it tipping over. I wear one nitrile glove for the hand that will be handling the inserts so I don't get oils on them from my hands. I start by putting an old field point on the insert so I can hold it while heating.
-I heat the insert for a couple seconds and the melt some glue then touch the insert on the glue. If the insert is too hot to hold with your fingers, it's too hot for the shaft, let it cool down and move to the next shaft. With the glue on the insert, I then heat put it in the flame for about half a second before inserting into the shaft. I twist the insert as I go and press the tip on my workbench to make sure the shaft is firmly seated against the shoulder of the insert. I put the tip into a small jar of water to immediately cool it down. I move to the next shaft and repeat the process. I use three field points and rotate them throughout the process. Once the shafts and inserts are cool I remove the excess glue.
8. Weigh in. Once the inserts are in, I put the nocks in and weigh all the arrows again. These came out to +1/-1 grain tolerance after installing the weight sorted components. I also install my field points and then spin the shafts.
9. I weigh all the vanes. I make sure that the vanes are all the same weight and put them in piles of three or four depending on how I will fletch the arrows.
10. I clean the vane end of the shafts with acetone. For this build I chose to not use arrow wraps, so the preparation stopped after cleaning. Installing wraps is super easy if you choose to use them, simply align the shaft with the wrap placed sticky side up on a mouse pad or similar surface and roll the shaft over the top. Just make sure the your wrap with be under where you want the vanes.
11. Fletching. I use a bitzenburger fletching jig with the Zenith upgrade kit. It holds the nock end of the shaft a lot better then the standard nock receiver.
-I start by removing the nocks and putting the shaft in the fletching jig with the silver sharpie mark facing up aligning with the first vane. This puts the seam in the same orientation with each arrow.
-I clean each vane with a Q-tip and acetone before application.
-I like to use a cyanoacrylate glue and have found the ones with a brush make applying the glue much cleaner and require less clean up. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Krazy-Glue-Brush-On-Craft-Formula-0-18-oz/19705070
-I keep each vane in the jig for about 10-20 seconds. I usually listen to a podcast or watch a video during this time because it can get a little monotonous.
-After all the vanes are glued I put a dab of glue on the front side of the vane and the back side. This is sometimes referred to as tipping and tailing the vane. It helps hold each end in place.
12. Once all the vanes are on the shafts I let them dry for a couple minutes. I then weigh each arrow and spin test. Once I'm satisfied that the arrows are weighing in and spin without wobbling I take a fine point sharpie number them. This isn't necessary, but if I find an arrow that misbehaving it gives me an option to try and diagnose if it's me or the arrow.
The final step is nock tuning. I'm not going to cover this just know that it is an important step.
Let me know if you have anything to add or if your system is different. I always like hearing different ways of doing things.
Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
I have a lot of tools for arrow building and assembly but most of this can be done with a few simple tools and a fletching jig. Most of the time you can get the shafts pre-cut now so there really isn't a need for an arrow saw unless you build a lot of arrows like I do.
The arrows I am building right now are a fairly inexpensive shaft that I will be using for 3D this year. They are not a hunting arrow but they are built very similarly with regard to components.
The arrows are:
-No Limit Burn Stick 300/.001 shafts 9.1 gpi
-35 grain Ethics Archery stainless steel inserts
-Bohning stainless steel bullet points
-Bohning signature nocks
-Q2i Fusion X-II 2.1 vanes 4 fletch
1. Getting the correct length of the arrow.
-I know from using these shafts before and my current bow that 28" carbon to carbon with the point weight I chose that they will spine out correctly. If you're not sure there are software programs that you can use to get you close enough to start. I cut these shafts on my Weston arrow saw. I don't normally cut from both ends unless I know that the shafts are .006 or greater with their straightness tolerance.
2. Squaring the ends. I use a Firenock APS for squaring the ends. There are many cheaper options for this but I haven't used another one that works this well, plus you can choose the grit and size of the sand paper. I square both ends. https://firenock.com/APS/
3. Prepping the shafts for components. I like to use Bohning cool melt glue for my inserts. It allows me to change things fairly easily if something gets broken or damaged or it's not reacting the way that I want.
-The first thing I do is score the inside of the insert end of the shaft to improve adhesion. I use a firearm bore cleaning brush.
-I clean the inside of both ends of the shaft with a Q-tip and acetone. Some manufacturers suggest not using acetone but I have never had a problem damaging shafts. I do this to remove the carbon dust from cutting and sanding.
-The next thing I do is probably unnecessary but i do it because it only takes a minute. I look inside the shaft to find the seam where the carbon has been overlayed in the manufacturing process. I mark the outside of the shafts with a silver sharpie over the seam on the nock end.
4. Prepping the components. Regardless of the components and how they articulate with the shafts, I clean each part in acetone. I do this to remove any oils from manufacture or from my hands from handling.
5. Weighing in. I weigh each component and shaft separately. I then line up the components and shafts in order from lightest to heaviest. Most quality components will weigh very close to their advertised weights but can vary about a grain sometimes.
6. Dry assembly. I assemble the components in order of weight (light shafts with heavy inserts and nocks).
7. Installing the inserts. I have a small propane torch with a Coleman camping size bottle that sits on my workbench without having to worry about it tipping over. I wear one nitrile glove for the hand that will be handling the inserts so I don't get oils on them from my hands. I start by putting an old field point on the insert so I can hold it while heating.
-I heat the insert for a couple seconds and the melt some glue then touch the insert on the glue. If the insert is too hot to hold with your fingers, it's too hot for the shaft, let it cool down and move to the next shaft. With the glue on the insert, I then heat put it in the flame for about half a second before inserting into the shaft. I twist the insert as I go and press the tip on my workbench to make sure the shaft is firmly seated against the shoulder of the insert. I put the tip into a small jar of water to immediately cool it down. I move to the next shaft and repeat the process. I use three field points and rotate them throughout the process. Once the shafts and inserts are cool I remove the excess glue.
8. Weigh in. Once the inserts are in, I put the nocks in and weigh all the arrows again. These came out to +1/-1 grain tolerance after installing the weight sorted components. I also install my field points and then spin the shafts.
9. I weigh all the vanes. I make sure that the vanes are all the same weight and put them in piles of three or four depending on how I will fletch the arrows.
10. I clean the vane end of the shafts with acetone. For this build I chose to not use arrow wraps, so the preparation stopped after cleaning. Installing wraps is super easy if you choose to use them, simply align the shaft with the wrap placed sticky side up on a mouse pad or similar surface and roll the shaft over the top. Just make sure the your wrap with be under where you want the vanes.
11. Fletching. I use a bitzenburger fletching jig with the Zenith upgrade kit. It holds the nock end of the shaft a lot better then the standard nock receiver.
-I start by removing the nocks and putting the shaft in the fletching jig with the silver sharpie mark facing up aligning with the first vane. This puts the seam in the same orientation with each arrow.
-I clean each vane with a Q-tip and acetone before application.
-I like to use a cyanoacrylate glue and have found the ones with a brush make applying the glue much cleaner and require less clean up. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Krazy-Glue-Brush-On-Craft-Formula-0-18-oz/19705070
-I keep each vane in the jig for about 10-20 seconds. I usually listen to a podcast or watch a video during this time because it can get a little monotonous.
-After all the vanes are glued I put a dab of glue on the front side of the vane and the back side. This is sometimes referred to as tipping and tailing the vane. It helps hold each end in place.
12. Once all the vanes are on the shafts I let them dry for a couple minutes. I then weigh each arrow and spin test. Once I'm satisfied that the arrows are weighing in and spin without wobbling I take a fine point sharpie number them. This isn't necessary, but if I find an arrow that misbehaving it gives me an option to try and diagnose if it's me or the arrow.
The final step is nock tuning. I'm not going to cover this just know that it is an important step.
Let me know if you have anything to add or if your system is different. I always like hearing different ways of doing things.
Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
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