Are cheap calipers worth using?

TheCoyote

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I have a set of Frankfort Arsenal calipers that were probably $30 new.
I have never distrusted them until today when I was having a heck of a time setting up a die.
Turns out my measurments were off and I was trying to force 10# of brass into a #5 sack if you will...

So I started to research calipers and holy smokes there is a wide variance in price.

Midway USA $20
RCBS is like $80
Mitutoyo $230

Are they all accurate or not so much?
Do I really need to spend $200?
 
I upgraded to Mitutoyo calipers a little while back and am glad I did. You don’t have to, but they are more predictable. They don’t wander, and the cheap ones do. When I used cheap ones, I spent a lot more time taking repetitive measurements to make sure the numbers were correct.

Only you can decide if that is worth the price premium to you. High quality ammo can absolutely be made without them.
 
Mitutoyo makes amazing calipers. The only drawback with the cheaper ones for me was they would “flex” and running the wheel with my thumb I would be careful not to add pressure.
 
This coming from a Journeymen Tool Maker with 40 + years experience.

YES... THE CHEAP CALIPERS WORK.

The difference is (mostly) in how long they last.

The dial type with the rack and pinion are the best to use in all cases.

Digitals can miss but it's normally SO obvious, it's not a problem. Usually the scale or reader is dirty and it will be fine after a cleaning and reset to zero.

The other exception to the general rule (mechanical dial is best) is when you set zero to a standard of some sort rather than the closed jaws. For instance, you might want to check variation OR minimum OR maximun- like trim length, COL or something else very quickly.

If you really need to measure something, anything, ACCURATELY- Micrometers and just about anything else is better than any caliper.

IF YOU ARE NOT A TOOL MAKER, MACHINIST OR INSPECTOR- Starrett, Brown & Sharpe, Mitutoyo, are absolutely NOT NECESSARY if you don't use them multiple times a day, every day to make a living.

PS.. Same goes with dial indicators. 😉
 
I’ve got 3 or 4 pairs of cheap ones, a mitutoyo dial caliper, and a mitutoyo digital one. The mihtotoyo digital one shit the bed maybe 2 years after I got it. The cheap cabelas digital one is going on 10 years.

I really dont see the upside of the mitutoyo stuff.

I'm just a guy that measures ammo and some other stuff with them though. Have never read the instructions on the finer points of function/maint/etc.
 
Depends but probably not. I generally use cheap (Harbor Freight) calipers and I don't have many complaints about the metal versions for the price. To me, the biggest issue is inconsistency from caliper to caliper. One will last for years and another will fail almost immediately.

I've found more bullet to bullet and brass to brass variation than the difference between cheap and expensive calipers.
 
My experience with cheap ones is they are trash but if you consistently use the same piece of trash they are close enough to give you a baseline. In other words they have been consistently and repeatably wrong, but useable. Except my one pair that is a mechanical dial. They for whatever reason have major variance and always wander.
 
I own a machine shop and have many types and brands of calipers. I prefer mitutoyo, for critical work but I buy the Haas branded digital calipers for day to day use around the shop. They are reasonably priced & have proven themselves to be accurate & reliable. We generally don’t use calipers for anything tighter than +/- .005 regardless of the brand & we calibrate frequently using gage blocks


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I’ve got 3 or 4 pairs of cheap ones, a mitutoyo dial caliper, and a mitutoyo digital one. The mihtotoyo digital one shit the bed maybe 2 years after I got it. The cheap cabelas digital one is going on 10 years.

I really dont see the upside of the mitutoyo stuff.

I'm just a guy that measures ammo and some other stuff with them though. Have never read the instructions on the finer points of function/maint/etc.
My cheap digital Hornady always matches my cheap analog Lyman, so I figure they're close enough.
 
As an overly analytical engineer, I have never been disappointed with my $40 china calipers (igaging absolute) in 8ish years. Still going strong. On my second or third battery

The cheap cheap cheap calipers can significantly draw from their battery even when off. So the "auto-off" can be a misnomer. My pittsburg harbor freight special was always needing a new battery.
 
I'm a mechanical engineer and (hobby) machinist & mechanic; I own 4 or 5 sets of calipers between work and home.

While I love using my digital Mitutoyo and dial Brown & Sharpe (smoother, less play, better built - those are pretty obvious when comparing), they really aren't much more accurate or repeatable than my cheapo digital pairs. I do also have the issue of all my cheapos burning through batteries substantially faster than the Mitutoyo.

For reloading, I wouldn't stress it and get whatever will make you happy. These will almost certainly be accurate and consistent enough for the need. Feel free to upgrade, but don't think it's 100% necessary.

And if you ever suspect an issue like the OP, there are really cheap ways to verify. Look up 1-2-3 blocks or micrometer calibration rods, which can be had for $10-$20 on Amazon if you don't already have something precision ground to size.
 
I have had cheaper dial calipers and they seemed to bounce around a lot. I love my mitutoyo digital calipers and they are on year 3.
 
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