Archery Newb

[wavygravy]

As with many on here, I'm getting into elk hunting without much experience and my location isn't ideal (Texas). I had everything lined up to go during 2015, planned on 2nd season OTC, but I took a new job and apparently October is travel month for my team. I was peeved, but got to work to pay the bills.

I started thinking recently though that I might give the whole archery thing a try since I can get out in September. A bit more challenging, but if it gives me the time to get out there, I'm in. My question is what would a good-great archery setup cost? Minimum draw weight 70 lbs? Look for speed or stealth? Superlite or accept a bit of weight?

There's quite a few used combos out there, but I'm always wary of those. I'm leaning towards Mathews, but I don't have a lot of experience with bows and brands (not starting a brand war here). I have a crossbow that I've killed a few deer with, but that's not what I would want to take hiking, I might even sell to fund more goodies.

Any tips are appreciated while I research this. I'm doing what I can to get out there next year, even looking into the possibility of a guide part of the week to lessen the awkwardness.

 

[larryschwartz]

As with many on here, I'm getting into elk hunting without much experience and my location isn't ideal (Texas). I had everything lined up to go during 2015, planned on 2nd season OTC, but I took a new job and apparently October is travel month for my team. I was peeved, but got to work to pay the bills.

I put my comments in red text after each question...

I started thinking recently though that I might give the whole archery thing a try since I can get out in September. A bit more challenging, but if it gives me the time to get out there, I'm in. My question is what would a good-great archery setup cost? I couldn't tell you but think between $500 and $1000 for a compound bow set up to hunt with. Minimum draw weight 70 lbs? I would go with something that had 60#-70# at the top end of adjustability but was around 40# at the low end. You don't want to start out with something heavy while you are trying to build good form, and good form is VITAL in archery/bowhunting. Look for speed or stealth? This is a personal thing but I would suggest that you focus on what you can shoot well and is quiet instead of looking for the fastest bow, I don't know what you mean by stealthy. Superlite or accept a bit of weight? Again, a personal preference. You need to put on a pack and take some hikes with a fully loaded compound in your hand to see what you like or can tolerate.

There's quite a few used combos out there, but I'm always wary of those. I'm leaning towards Mathews, but I don't have a lot of experience with bows and brands (not starting a brand war here). I have a crossbow that I've killed a few deer with, but that's not what I would want to take hiking, I might even sell to fund more goodies. To pick the bow you want to hunt with I would suggest that you do the following:

1. Shoot as many bows as you can; different draw weights, different overall lengths (axle to axle length), wheels vs. cams, different grips, any characteristic that is on a bow can be done a variety of ways. Go to pro shops and shoot what they have and sell (each will be a little different), and shoot other peoples bows (just remember that it may be perfect for his body and shooting style but horrible for yours so don't get what your buddy says is the best). After you shoot a lot of different bows you will be able to decide what characteristics you want (e.g., mid range axle to axle length, long riser, high wrist grip, big cams, shoot through arrow rest, adjustable pin bowsight, etc.).

2. Find the manufacturers who make bows with your characteristics and then shoot them some more. To see what you SHOOT the best.

3. Find a pro shop with an owner and bow technician that you like and trust. Some may be great technically but will only push what they sell, some may sell all kinds of brands but don't do very well setting up or fixing bows, but if you look you should be able to find a good shop for the bow that you pick.

4. Buy basic gear, you don't need to hange ten pounds of accessories off of your bow. Bow, quiver, sight, arrow rest, may be a stabilizer. Use heavy arrows to help absorb all the energy the bow transfers to the arrow; the extra/wasted energy turns into either hand shock/vibration or noise and the heavy arrow will help minimize this.

5. Get someone or some videos to help you learn how to shoot well. Start with you bow at its lowest setting and arrows to match that draw weight. Build good form at that weight, then move up five or ten pounds while still keeping good form. You may need to strengthen your shooting muscles as you go up in weight. You may also have to change arrows as you go up in weight too.

6. Take your states bowhunter education course to learn some more about hunting with a bow and arrow. The tactics are different and where you aim is different. It will be time well spent and normally doesn't cost anything.

Any tips are appreciated while I research this. I'm doing what I can to get out there next year, even looking into the possibility of a guide part of the week to lessen the awkwardness.

Hope this helps,

Larry Schwartz

 

[kodiakfly]

Hope this helps,

Larry Schwartz

Yeah I'd say that's pretty spot on advice.

 

[larryschwartz]

Along the line of shooting as many bows as you can, a friend of mine was looking to get into traditional archery so he went on eBay and bought about a half dozen different bows, all with different characteristics. He shot them all, kept the ones he liked and put the others back onto eBay. He figured out what he wanted in a trad bow and it didn't cost him much at all.

 

[wavygravy]

Thanks all, I don't have a lot of options in the Houston market for proshops, but there's one close by that can hopefully put me on the right path. I measured my arm length to be 70", so 28" draw length is what I come up with, I'm 5'11" so I guess that makes sense. Hopefully I'm able to make this work, the wife in on board with the idea, so that's one hurdle.

 

[boom]

I took a brand new non bow shooter to a shop yesterday so he can dip his toe into the archery pool.

Man, a newb's form can be all over the place. Just looking at it, I knew it was wrong. Interesting to me was my inability to verbally direct him to fix it. The shop guy was much better. He got him close enough to test a few bows.

I think it's best to find someone to help you get started properly. I remember my first real bow. It was 2007 and as soon as I drew it back I knew I had it. Shop guy made one adjustment. All to touch string to my nose. It was history in the making and I never touched a rifle again.

Find a good shop. Get fitted.

I wouldn't buy from a big box store. Not any of the ones around me.

 

[dunner543]

I've actually had pretty good experiences with Cabelas and BPS. It helps to go in when they aren't busy so they can help you out. They don't have many bows, especially high end ones to choose from but its good for a beginner to start talking archery where there aren't dedicated shops around. Most will let you shoot a lot of bows too to see the difference in feel.

 

[camelcluch]

Post #2 is pretty much the blue print. The only thing I will add is, shoot and shoot some more. Be ready but not in a rush to buy. Forget the name on the bow and just shoot. Good luck.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Great advice here. I am 7 months and 2 white tails into my archery career so there are far more experienced voices to learn from here and on some of the other great forums. I few thought from a fellow newb:

- find a good pro shop.
- go in at a time that is not busy and chat up the guys at the counter. Make them know your name
- spend money there. They will appreciate it and help you more than a cabelas catalog or Amazon site.
- get some instruction on form
- practice
- read a book and watch a few videos
- practice
- find that guy at the pro shop, not the middle aged one who looks like he never passed up a doughnut, but the skinny wirey guy that wears a camouflage ball cap that is a bit ragged, and pay him for a couple of lessons.
- practice some more
- get a 3D target. To get an idea of what it might look like to shoot an animal.
- shoot if from various distances, angles and elevations - above and below - shoot it on a platform the size of a stand. Shoot it from kneeling.

Before I take a shot I breath, I say calm, calm, calm, draw and I run through my checklist:
1 - grip
2 - register point for my draw hand
3 - nose to string
4 - sight aligned
5 - smooth release
6 - follow through

Lastly - have a blast. I am really enjoying the archery aspect in addition to the bow hunting. I is quite fun.

 

[lintond]

I started thinking recently though that I might give the whole archery thing a try since I can get out in September. A bit more challenging, but if it gives me the time to get out there, I'm in. My question is what would a good-great archery setup cost? Minimum draw weight 70 lbs? Look for speed or stealth? Superlite or accept a bit of weight?

Any tips are appreciated while I research this. I'm doing what I can to get out there next year, even looking into the possibility of a guide part of the week to lessen the awkwardness.

Here are my thoughts on your questions and archery elk hunting.
- Be prepared to become addicted and spending gobs of $$ on hunting rutting elk. It is hard, but damn is it fun! I jumped into archery and elk hunting three years ago solo, and have had a blast. Lots of info online, forums, and podcasts. IMO if you judge a successful hunt as filling a tag you may look to stick to rifle hunting.
- In regards to a bow it takes time and knowledge to get it tuned and shooting properly. If you don't want to invest the time, then plan to find a good pro shop that will get it dialed in for you.
- There is no silver bullet of bows. Get one that you like and can shoot well. They all feel different in your hand. All the top brands are quality and have their pros and cons. Again get out their and try as many as you can. Don't be afraid of a used bow, many guys (me included) have a problem with 'upgrading' to a new bow on an annual basis.
- Being new to archery I'd suggest you stick to a bow in the lower price range <$500. The top dollar bows aren't that much better if you are concerned about that. If price is no object then go for it.
- Speed typically results in harder to shoot. Shooting accurately is more important then speed. IMO most all of the bows are fast enough today. Again find a bow that YOU shoot well.
- I think #60-70 is a good weight range. If you can only shoot #50 don't let that stop you!

Last thing...If you are going to be an archery hunter please take the time to practice and make sure your setup shoots well. Don't start this mid-August. Go shoot some 3D shoots, practice shooting weird positions (up hill, kneeling, elevated HR). Also if it is anything that interests you at all I'd check out the Train To Hunt competitions. They are a great community and something to work towards during the spring/summer.