Anyone here ever build a flint lock fowler/shotgun kit?

Kindo

WKR
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Location
Hudson, WI
Anyone ever build one of these? I'm thinking it would be a fun project to do with my son and daughter over the winter and then take out to chase turkeys in the spring. I'm looking at a maybe a kit from Pecatonica River Long Rifle Supply.

Thanks for any input!
 
I personally don't do kits anymore, I did a couple many years ago and found out that building from scratch is the way top go..... http://bdarms.blogspot.com/

Something like Pecatonica isn't like a screw together deal. It takes skill and know-how and proper tools to come out with a good product. Finishing a lock in itself is an art. A properly finished lock is ridiculously consistent and reliable. I'd say 99% of the "knowledge" of flintlocks is BS and just completely wrong. I've restored and shot many originals oldest being late 1740's and build mine to be that same standard.

With that said, for your first, something in the white is much better to start with like Caywood does. If you are going to go kit, Dunlap woodcraft or Chambers flintlocks is where I'd suggest.

This pic is of my turkey gun, 20ga choked-
 

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Give Jim a call, perhaps a smooth bore rifle in .58 to 62 cal. Not saying he would do a barrel in that, but it might be a go, the other option would be a .62 cal kit from Kibler and send the barrel off to Bob Hoyt to be bored smooth, but I would check with both of the guys mentioned to be sure the barrel thickness would be allowable for that, as a new builder the Kibler kit would be your best bet. I am waiting on a left-handed option from Kibler but it doesn't look like it will ever happen.
 
Give Jim a call, perhaps a smooth bore rifle in .58 to 62 cal. Not saying he would do a barrel in that, but it might be a go, the other option would be a .62 cal kit from Kibler and send the barrel off to Bob Hoyt to be bored smooth, but I would check with both of the guys mentioned to be sure the barrel thickness would be allowable for that, as a new builder the Kibler kit would be your best bet. I am waiting on a left-handed option from Kibler but it doesn't look like it will ever happen.
Why on earth would you go through all that hassle and expense when they are much better ways? Your groove depth on most 62's is 640 so nothing but a pita. All you need top do on that route is get the same profile in a smooth bore, most likely from Rice bbl. But holy complicated advice batman.
 
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Wow, first off, thanks for all the input so far! I really wasn’t expecting much feedback as I know they’re not exactly an easy project and require quite a few skill sets so it’s not a thing for everybody. I will be sure and continue my research on the matter and it looks like many suppliers are old school so not a ton of info online for them.

My father and I have a pair of flint locks who were handcrafted from a family friend and they are beautiful heirlooms. I’d love to tackle one myself and build some skills in the process.

Keep the great info coming!
 
I personally don't do kits anymore, I did a couple many years ago and found out that building from scratch is the way top go.....http://bdarms.blogspot.com/

Something like Pecatonica isn't like a screw together deal. It takes skill and know-how and proper tools to come out with a good product. Finishing a lock in itself is an art. A properly finished lock is ridiculously consistent and reliable. I'd say 99% of the "knowledge" of flintlocks is BS and just completely wrong. I've restored and shot many originals oldest being late 1740's and build mine to be that same standard.

With that said, for your first, something in the white is much better to start with like Caywood does. If you are going to go kit, Dunlap woodcraft or Chambers flintlocks is where I'd suggest.

This pic is of my turkey gun, 20ga choked-
Beautiful iron there. Thanks for the input. I’ll be sure and check them out. I’d say I have a decent ability with tools, stronger in woodworking than in metals with a pretty good shop to work in. I feel a complete build is maybe a bit outside my ability but I think I want something a bit more than an “in the white”. At the same time, I could be overestimating my abilities too!
 
I was a little scared to start building a "kit" from Pecatonica river as I was afraid I would screw up a $1000+ kit. But the truth is, it's a parts kit and the individual parts are available if you totally screw one up. As was said before , the lock tuning is important. I screwed up my lock plate by putting the fly in upside down, slightly gouging it. I was using an L&R lock and was able to get a new one way cheaper than a whole new lock.
 
Why on earth would you go through all that hassle and expense when they are much better ways? Your groove depth on most 62's is 640 so nothing but a pita. All you need top do on that route is get the same profile in a smooth bore, most likely from Rice bbl. But holy complicated advice batman.
I agree, but does the poster have the knowledge and skill set to breach the barrel, file the dove tails for the sight and lugs for the barrel tenons. Also get the barrel fitted into the stock and properly aligned for a flint or percussion lock not to mention setting the drum and nipple or drilling a properly placed touch hole or installing a vent liner and adjusting proper lock geometry. Guess it's all in what you want, and the length of time related to skill set or amount of money you want to invest. The real answer here is to buy a custom-built fowler and wait for three years to get it or look for one for sale. I understand the want and experience to build and involve your child, but too often someone will invest a bunch of money in a kit that looks good on a site and then turn it into a not so good gun or lose interest and set it in a corner to gather dust. Guess it's all what one wants and how far down the rabbit hole one wants to go. any way I wish the OP a good journey.
 
OP, if you’re going to go down this road I highly recommend the book "gunsmith of Grenville County" and if you want it to look authentic I’d look for a copy of 'Rifles of Colonial America' (vol 1 and 2) for actual pictures and dimensions.
 
I didn't realize Kibler kits are rifles only. Due to the difference in architecture between a rifle and fowler I don't really like the idea of a smooth rifle when the OP wants a fowler. The shape and weight will be all wrong. Also, rifles typically have more carving therby complicating a first project build. I don't think you could go wrong with a Chambers kit.
 
I agree, but does the poster have the knowledge and skill set to breach the barrel, file the dove tails for the sight and lugs for the barrel tenons. Also get the barrel fitted into the stock and properly aligned for a flint or percussion lock not to mention setting the drum and nipple or drilling a properly placed touch hole or installing a vent liner and adjusting proper lock geometry. Guess it's all in what you want, and the length of time related to skill set or amount of money you want to invest. The real answer here is to buy a custom-built fowler and wait for three years to get it or look for one for sale. I understand the want and experience to build and involve your child, but too often someone will invest a bunch of money in a kit that looks good on a site and then turn it into a not so good gun or lose interest and set it in a corner to gather dust. Guess it's all what one wants and how far down the rabbit hole one wants to go. any way I wish the OP a good journey.
All bbl's from bbl manufacturers come breached these days, especially for kits Yes, I do believe he has the skills to see it through.
 
I didn't realize Kibler kits are rifles only. Due to the difference in architecture between a rifle and fowler I don't really like the idea of a smooth rifle when the OP wants a fowler. The shape and weight will be all wrong. Also, rifles typically have more carving therby complicating a first project build. I don't think you could go wrong with a Chambers kit.
That pretty much sums up why I don't build kits people ask me to do. It really pigeon holes creativity and historical accuracy. I have built so many Moravian and Suhl school smoothbores because of this. The "fowler" being an English gun didn't have any meaning to other schools, architecture didn't change for rifle/smooth in the majority. Brings up the question as to how much communication there was between them idk. So many builds, so little time lol. Ditto on the Chambers recommendation.👍
 
Not rocket science. Take your time and do your research. If I can do It……
Track of the wolf has plans that have life size pictures with step by step instructions. That, YouTube, books, forums like The Muzzleloader Forum,etc.
 
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