Anyone good with automotive (UTV) wiring? Couple questions..

[cornfedkiller]

Few simple questions about wiring some switches, relays, and lights to my side by side (Ranger)..

1) There's a buss bar under the hood, with a negative, always hot, and hot with key (ACC) post. First question just because I'm curious is, how does that work? How is the one post only hot with the key on?

2) I want the switches on with the key, so I will run a wire from the ACC post to the switch, then from the switch to the appropriate spot on the relay (I believe its 85?). Should my power source to the relay thats actually going to the light (#30 I believe) come directly from the always hot post, or also from that ACC post.. probably doesn't make any difference, but is one better than the other?

3) For grounding, I assume I can just connect to any bolt on the frame, but would it be better to bring a wire back to the negative post on that buss bar?

 

[displacedtexan]

1- Separate feeds to the two different +, one is only triggered when the key is on.

2- I would run the power source to the relay fused off the battery. Either way works, that's just my preference.

3- You can connect to any bolt, theoretically going back to the battery is best. I personally prefer running a 2 wire cable back to where the bus bar is. A common ground. In your case the bus bar is setup for it.

 

[displacedtexan]

Also... If you have multiple things you're wiring... Wire them all the same.

That way if issues do arise, you don't have to figure out how that one is wired.

IE- If you run one relay hot key on, run them all hot key on.

 

[packer58]

If you want to read about UTV wiring until your eyeballs fall out, visit the Honda SXS Club website. Iv'e installed a duel battery, isolator, second aux fuse block, winch, switches, buss bars and so on using information provided by that site. Very informative if you search around. My machine is a Pioneer 1000 so all the info is relative, but but you should be able to get all the info you need to add circuits to your ranger.

 

[cornfedkiller]

Also... If you have multiple things you're wiring... Wire them all the same.

That way if issues do arise, you don't have to figure out how that one is wired.

IE- If you run one relay hot key on, run them all hot key on.

Thanks for the info!

I was planning on running one hot wire from the ACC post to the first switch, and then jumping from there to the other switch (to avoid having to run another wire from the buss bar to the switch). Is that fine, or not a good idea?

Along the same lines.. can I splice several of my grounds together (the two relays that are mounted next to each other for instance) and just bring 1 wire back to the (-) on the buss bar?

 

[displacedtexan]

Thanks for the info!

I was planning on running one hot wire from the ACC post to the first switch, and then jumping from there to the other switch (to avoid having to run another wire from the buss bar to the switch). Is that fine, or not a good idea?

Along the same lines.. can I splice several of my grounds together (the two relays that are mounted next to each other for instance) and just bring 1 wire back to the (-) on the buss bar?

Doing that is fine. You're kinda making your own bus bar in a more convenient location. (Obviously not exactly, just helping you picture what you're doing.)

Yes you can. That's pretty common, it's a good way to balance the best possible way, ease of installation, and streamlined installation.

 

[Weldor]

Run your ACC wire to a fuse block with 5 or so slots then you don't have to run extra wire. You can run future accesories off the fuse block without any re -wiring. Put a ground block on also it will have multiple posts to attach to. Also make sure your wire is the right size for amp draw.

 

[EastHumboldt]

Run your ACC wire to a fuse block with 5 or so slots then you don't have to run extra wire. You can run future accesories off the fuse block without any re -wiring. Put a ground block on also it will have multiple posts to attach to. Also make sure your wire is the right size for amp draw.

This. Wire to fuse block hasta be big enough to handle all the Prospective loads. Wire Should be the same size as the wire feeding the ACC post.

 

[cornfedkiller]

Run your ACC wire to a fuse block with 5 or so slots then you don't have to run extra wire. You can run future accesories off the fuse block without any re -wiring. Put a ground block on also it will have multiple posts to attach to. Also make sure your wire is the right size for amp draw.

Been thinking about this.. doesnt really save me any wire since the fuse block mounted under the hood will only be about 8" from the buss bar, but it would look/be cleaner.

If I do that, I run the (+) from the fuse to the (+) input on the relay... Do I then power my switches with another fuse in that box?

 

[GSPHUNTER]

I have worked on residential electrical, and trouble shot A/C problems on everything from residential up to 500 ton centrifugal. Auto electrical drives me nuts. It's a mental block or something.

 

[displacedtexan]

I have worked on residential electrical, and trouble shot A/C problems on everything from residential up to 500 ton centrifugal. Auto electrical drives me nuts. It's a mental block or something.

I've built wiring harness for engine swapped vehicles, modified all kinds of weird stuff.

I gotta ask my electrician buddy before I do anything more complicated than reset a breaker with AC current.

 

[akcabin]

Have to remember that the more connections in a circuit is more opportunities for corrosion. I would run a larger wire #4 if I remember correctly, about a 1/4" diameter wire to a distributio block with several posts. I prefer a post with a nut holding it as compared to plug in connectors. Use may want a master switch between them. Probably don't need to though. From the distribution posts you can go to toggles and lights. Having a return right to the battery ground is best. As stated you can use 1 common ground.
The nice thing about having the isolated distribution block is when you have to diagnose problems. It's easier to have separate circuits and have them all near the source. Use an electrical dialectic grease on your connectors. Comes in a small tube. It looks like Vaseline.
For what it's worth I've got 8 wheelers n and bunch of snogos around here in keep running. And I worked on semi trucks. They have lots of wiring and a lot of lights
Have fun maybe cold beers

 

[BRTreedogs]

You are way over thinking it.
Just connect it to the buss bar.
That's why the manufacturer put it there.

 

[packer58]

Run your ACC wire to a fuse block with 5 or so slots then you don't have to run extra wire. You can run future accesories off the fuse block without any re -wiring. Put a ground block on also it will have multiple posts to attach to. Also make sure your wire is the right size for amp draw.

There may likely be a problem with this method, the OP needs to check the fuse amp rating on the ACC circuit. If he powers a 5 slot fuse block with the ACC circuit and it is only fused for lets say 10 amps, his entire fuse block will only be rated for a max of 10 amps.

His best bet is to use his ACC circuit as a trigger source for a solenoid (Cole Hersey Marine continuous duty), that way he will never over amp his ACC circuit.

Typical solenoid will have (4) posts, (2) large posts (12 volt power in and out) and (2) small posts ( Trigger source and ground)

This is how I wired my machine to power my aux fuse block .......

(+) from battery to either of the large posts on the solenoid
(+) from the other large post to (+) side of aux fuse block
(+) your ACC wire to either of the small posts on the solenoid ( doesn't matter which )
(-) to the other small post on the solenoid
(-) from your aux fuse to battery or frame ground

I assume that your ACC circuit energizes in the key on position, so if wired as stated above your aux fuse block will also be energized with key on.

The idea here is the ability to run 6 or 8 gauge from your battery to the solenoid, out of the solenoid to your fuse block which will give you plenty of amp load on your aux fuse block and still keeping the amp load of your acc circuit under its amp rating.

Solenoids are great at carrying a high amp load with a low amp trigger, in which case this would be your acc circuit (trigger)

Hope this makes sense .........

 

[cornfedkiller]

There may likely be a problem with this method, the OP needs to check the fuse amp rating on the ACC circuit. If he powers a 5 slot fuse block with the ACC circuit and it is only fused for lets say 10 amps, his entire fuse block will only be rated for a max of 10 amps.

His best bet is to use his ACC circuit as a trigger source for a solenoid (Cole Hersey Marine continuous duty), that way he will never over amp his ACC circuit.

Typical solenoid will have (4) posts, (2) large posts (12 volt power in and out) and (2) small posts ( Trigger source and ground)

This is how I wired my machine to power my aux fuse block .......

(+) from battery to either of the large posts on the solenoid
(+) from the other large post to (+) side of aux fuse block
(+) your ACC wire to either of the small posts on the solenoid ( doesn't matter which )
(-) to the other small post on the solenoid
(-) from your aux fuse to battery or frame ground

I assume that your ACC circuit energizes in the key on position, so if wired as stated above your aux fuse block will also be energized with key on.

The idea here is the ability to run 6 or 8 gauge from your battery to the solenoid, out of the solenoid to your fuse block which will give you plenty of amp load on your aux fuse block and still keeping the amp load of your acc circuit under its amp rating.

Solenoids are great at carrying a high amp load with a low amp trigger, in which case this would be your acc circuit (trigger)

Hope this makes sense .........

Did some more researching yesterday and what you outlined seems to be the preferred method, especially for guys that have a bunch of accessories to run.

The workaround would be to do what @displacedtexan mentioned in answer #2 in his first reply, which would be to wire the accessory to the battery (or the always hot post on the buss bar), and then wire the switches to the ACC post. That way the accessories can only be used when the key is on, but they draw their power directly from the battery.

The previous owner installed a radio, blinkers, and an electric dump box, so there are already some wires in there I could clean up, but I'm only adding 2 more lights so I'm trying to decide if I should take the easy route and just wire them to the busbar, or make it more of a project and add the fuse box...

 

[go_deep]

Have to remember that the more connections in a circuit is more opportunities for corrosion. I would run a larger wire #4 if I remember correctly, about a 1/4" diameter wire to a distributio block with several posts. I prefer a post with a nut holding it as compared to plug in connectors. Use may want a master switch between them. Probably don't need to though. From the distribution posts you can go to toggles and lights. Having a return right to the battery ground is best. As stated you can use 1 common ground.
The nice thing about having the isolated distribution block is when you have to diagnose problems. It's easier to have separate circuits and have them all near the source. Use an electrical dialectic grease on your connectors. Comes in a small tube. It looks like Vaseline.
For what it's worth I've got 8 wheelers n and bunch of snogos around here in keep running. And I worked on semi trucks. They have lots of wiring and a lot of lights
Have fun maybe cold beers

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