Any PRS guys?

[HuntHarder]

I shot a match a few years ago and really enjoyed it. I wasnt competitive with my hunting rifle, but it was a ton of fun. Any PRS guys have any suggestions on guns, bullets anything to help.

I am wanting another Chassis gun, so I am looking to get either another Christensen MPR or do a Tikka in an MPA chassis with a 20ish" barrel. Wanting to run suppressed and like the shorter barrels. As much as I hate saying I own a 6.5 creedmoor, I am leaning toward it. Cheap to reload, minimal recoil, good ballistics. I am not stuck in stone, but want a common cartridge, short action low recoil and good ballistics downrange.

Thanks guy

 

[cjcavinaw]

I personally am just getting into it as well. 6.5 cm seems to be the way to go looking at availability of components and cost effective reloading components. I built mine off of a bergara hmr, shoots great put, rem 700 footprint so I put it in a new chassis and it fits the bill for me for now. My only complaint is that when it comes time to replace the barrel theres not a lot of options that dont I clue a gunsmith where as my tikka I can just order a new profit barrel when its time to change it up.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[dieselchessy]

I have 2 rifles. Both started as Remington SPS varmint. They were less than $500 each new when purchased. .308 and 6.5 Creedmoor.
Replaced stocks, triggers, cut to 22” and threaded. Both shoot better than they have any business doing.

For a casual competition rifle 6.5 creedmoor is hard to beat.

Seems real desirable to have a full length rail (Arca) on the forend to allow slip positioning of bipods and tripods. Something to consider.

 

[Novahunter]

Have a couple dozen PRS matches under my belt, and after taking last year off looking forward to get back into it this year.

If you have the budget, get one of the production guns from Seekins, MPA, Bad Rock, or GAP. They're essentially custom quality, and are great values around $2500.

Don't skimp on glass. I went from a Vortex Gen1 Razor, to a Bushnell ERS, to a ZCO over a 5 year period. Never thought I would spend over $3K on a scope (at the time), but it was worth every penny. I can see small details better, which allows me to see my misses and make better and faster follow up shots.

PRS is a game of recoil management. Get a chassis where you can add weights inside/out. You want the gun to weigh over 22lbs, and balance forward of the mag with a 6.5 caliber.

So many people shoot with brakes at a match, you'll never be able to shoot without earpro. So, suppressors are really meaningless in PRS. They add a variable that's detrimental to precision if something goes wrong, and they don't give any advantage. It's better to simply get a longer barrel, and put the biggest brake on you can stand, imho.

Caliber wise, 6.5 CM is fine especially if you plan to shoot factory loads. If you handload, lots of options open up. 6.5x47 would be my first recommendation for a handloader.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I think in order to do PRS you need to get a photo of yourself near the opened bed of a pickup flexing as you hold the rifle. Flat brim get you extra points as do tribal tattoos and skin tight black v-neck shirts.

 

[dieselchessy]

I think in order to do PRS you need to get a photo of yourself near the opened bed of a pickup flexing as you hold the rifle. Flat brim get you extra points as do tribal tattoos and skin tight black v-neck shirts.

They must have some interesting PRS matches in Alaska.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

They must have some interesting PRS matches in Alaska.

They might, I have no idea.

 

[Macintosh]

I did the same a few years ago. Definitely spend your money on glass before you spend it on a gun. If you’re getting your feet wet, I would spend the money on brand-name glass, because if you don’t end up sticking with it and want to turn it around in a year or three it’ll be easier to resell. No one ever complained that their scope was too consistent or their glass too good! (Or buy my athlon cronus in the classies )
Regarding caliber, when I purchased my rifle a few years ago, looking up and down the line probably seven out of 10 people at matches were shooting a 65 Creedmoor. I think that has changed, but people are shooting smaller cartridges, not bigger ones, lots of little boutique 6mm variants, 6br, etc. and still plenty of 6.5cm. I think you will find exponentially more ammo availability and component availability in 65 Creedmoor than any other caliber you might realistically choose. To me, it’s the only logical choice to get your feet wet in a rifle like that, but only if you’re man enough to own one.

If you have a $2k+ rifle budget you can buy any of several custom actions, a good barrel, trigger, put it in a KRG bravo, and be pretty much as well off as anyone at the range. Add another $500 plus if you have to have a different chassis or a manners or something like that. If you’re looking to spend less, Tikka CTR, a good muzzle break, and a KRG bravo will run you 1500 or less. As said above, to be competitive you will want it to come in at 17-25lb, it makes a difference. Lots of that is weights attached to the chassis, so you can adjust that as you go. Or not, theres a few I see that are 14-16 and more like a heavy hunting rifle.

 

[Team4LongGun]

I think in order to do PRS you need to get a photo of yourself near the opened bed of a pickup flexing as you hold the rifle. Flat brim get you extra points as do tribal tattoos and skin tight black v-neck shirts.

What?? This adds zero value to this conversation.

 

[XLR]

I shot a match a few years ago and really enjoyed it. I wasnt competitive with my hunting rifle, but it was a ton of fun. Any PRS guys have any suggestions on guns, bullets anything to help.

I am wanting another Chassis gun, so I am looking to get either another Christensen MPR or do a Tikka in an MPA chassis with a 20ish" barrel. Wanting to run suppressed and like the shorter barrels. As much as I hate saying I own a 6.5 creedmoor, I am leaning toward it. Cheap to reload, minimal recoil, good ballistics. I am not stuck in stone, but want a common cartridge, short action low recoil and good ballistics downrange.

Thanks guy

My biggest advice would be pick a caliber and stick with it! Most guys are running 6 BR variants (BR, BRA, Dasher, etc). If you are going to get a factory rifle try to get a 6 creed but 6.5 creed will work. If you end up with 6.5 creed I would definitely recommend running a brake for recoil mitigation. Suppressors seem to give you a drawn out recoil impulse that is a little harder to control.

Once you decide on the caliber to go with buy a pile of brass and send it! Over the years I have went from 7 Mag (dont do this it hurts) to 6.5 PRC (little better but also hurts) to 6 creed to 6 BRA and now I am shooting both the BRA and 6.5 creed. You will get better faster with the smaller 6s than you will by running a 6.5 creed. If you go with the factory options above a 6 GT is another great one and they have some factory ammo!

I always recommend buying something that you can also build of in the future which starts with the action and the chassis. Then you also need some decent glass that is reliable! A Mark 5 or Burris XTR Pro would be a really good starter optic there! I can go down the rabbit hole on this stuff so if you would like to discuss a little more feel free to give us a call!

 

[HuntHarder]

I think in order to do PRS you need to get a photo of yourself near the opened bed of a pickup flexing as you hold the rifle. Flat brim get you extra points as do tribal tattoos and skin tight black v-neck shirts.

Any recommendations on a way to practice and have fun during the off season? If the PRS guys here in the lower 48 are like the ones you shoot with up on AK, I might have to pass.

 

[HuntHarder]

For all the real advice, thanks guys. As far as budget, I really don't have one. Most of my rifles are 4kish after scopes. I saw the 6 creedmoor, it's got me thinking. I do all my own reloading, but much prefer to buy cases, load and shoot. Im not into fireforming or oddball rounds to get a hair more performance. I think most guys shoot those rounds because they are bored or just want to say they shoot something the average guy hasn't heard of.
22lbs is way more than I was thinking, but makes sense. What do you think optimum barrel length would be for PRS? I was wanting shortish, but could do a 26 if it is that much easier to shoot.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Have a couple dozen PRS matches under my belt, and after taking last year off looking forward to get back into it this year.

If you have the budget, get one of the production guns from Seekins, MPA, Bad Rock, or GAP. They're essentially custom quality, and are great values around $2500.

Don't skimp on glass. I went from a Vortex Gen1 Razor, to a Bushnell ERS, to a ZCO over a 5 year period. Never thought I would spend over $3K on a scope (at the time), but it was worth every penny. I can see small details better, which allows me to see my misses and make better and faster follow up shots.

PRS is a game of recoil management. Get a chassis where you can add weights inside/out. You want the gun to weigh over 22lbs, and balance forward of the mag with a 6.5 caliber.

So many people shoot with brakes at a match, you'll never be able to shoot without earpro. So, suppressors are really meaningless in PRS. They add a variable that's detrimental to precision if something goes wrong, and they don't give any advantage. It's better to simply get a longer barrel, and put the biggest brake on you can stand, imho.

Caliber wise, 6.5 CM is fine especially if you plan to shoot factory loads. If you handload, lots of options open up. 6.5x47 would be my first recommendation for a handloader.

This is good advice. You don’t want a CA or a Tikka or any other light rifle for PRS.

An aftermarket action like a bighorn, impact, that new ARC, any of those with a Proof SS prefit dumped in a KRG bravo is a great start. You can do an Origin, Proof SS, and Bravo for like $1600 and then you just need a trigger and brake.

If you load I would go 6 Dasher. It’s the king for PRS IMO.

 

[XLR]

For all the real advice, thanks guys. As far as budget, I really don't have one. Most of my rifles are 4kish after scopes. I saw the 6 creedmoor, it's got me thinking. I do all my own reloading, but much prefer to buy cases, load and shoot. Im not into fireforming or oddball rounds to get a hair more performance. I think most guys shoot those rounds because they are bored or just want to say they shoot something the average guy hasn't heard of.
22lbs is way more than I was thinking, but makes sense. What do you think optimum barrel length would be for PRS? I was wanting shortish, but could do a 26 if it is that much easier to shoot.

A lot of different companies are making brass for them now so you shouldnt have to fireform! Lapua and Peterson make 6 BR Brass, Alpha makes 6 BRA and Dasher brass so there are some options! You will notice a difference by going from those to a 6 creed! Dont necessarily get too caught up in the 22 lbs. While the weight does help, a properly set up rifle will do more than just weight! There are top shooters using an 18 lb rifle. I would say stick with the 24 - 26 inch length. That way you are getting the blast as far away from you as possible and maintaining a good velocity.