any of you all use a Spot Hogg Tommy Hogg

[Luked]

got one of these sights a while back and just now trying to get it set up.
I shot it the way that the instructions said and shot it at 20 yards got it set and put the calibration tape put on and got the 60 set. picked the tape out that it said I needed lined it up. and when I went to put the target at an odd yardage like 34 yards it was shooting high
how do you all set these sights up

 

[Rolo]

For ny of my adjustable sights, whether they be my SH Hogg Father, Axcels or CBEs, I do not the 'calibration tapes' that rely on 20 yards for the 'near' mark. Way too much fudge factor at 20.

If I am using a program, OT2 or TAP, and also using marks, I use 30 yards as th near mark and 60 has the far. May need some tweaking after the original tape is made, but this has proven way more accurate than using 20.

If I am using pre-made tapes, then I get a 30-40-50-60 (and maybe the 5s) and see which pre-made lines up/. I may or may not change it later.

 

[charvey9]

I use ontarget 2 software to make my tapes, as I think the pre-made tapes are just not as accurate. I usually do a little trail and error shooting first, and write down my marks at 20, 30, 40, 50 yards and then use OT2 to calibrate the tape. OI reference the tape against what the marks I took while shooting, and it is normally withing a few clicks of the calculated ballistics. With accurate measurements, and using my own chrono speed and arrow weight, I always get a pretty accurate tape. Once you have done it a few times, it gets pretty easy.

 

[dangerousD]

Like the previous replies, I use a program for my sight tapes. I use the free XSight program. It works good for me. Have not tried any of the others mentioned. If you use this program, there are some settings you have to establish that greatly affect the sight tape print out. I can share what works for me for the Spot Hogg if you go this route.

 

[Luked]

I have on target 2 but have no printer at home. I have messed around a little with the program but still a bit unsure on how to use it correctly

 

[wapitibob]

Most of the tape programs work well. I use Archers Advantage. Sight in at 30 and 80 and use those measurements. You'll also need the peep to pin distance at full draw as well as the peep to center of arrow at full draw, arrow weight also.
As an alternative you could get archers mark for your iphone and just make the tape by hand. You'll still need to sight in and have the 2 measurements as well as arrow weight and dia. but archers mark is what most all of us use for tournaments now. I believe they have a print option but I've never looked into it.
As another alternative, a plain avery label, a sharpie, and some time at the range will work just as well...

 

[justin davis]

I use the tommy Hogg. I shoot each yardage and hand draw line in. I haven't had much luck with programmed tapes. By doing it myself I get exact yardage and confidence

 

[OR Archer]

Most of the tape programs work well. I use Archers Advantage. Sight in at 30 and 80 and use those measurements. You'll also need the peep to pin distance at full draw as well as the peep to center of arrow at full draw, arrow weight also.
As an alternative you could get archers mark for your iphone and just make the tape by hand. You'll still need to sight in and have the 2 measurements as well as arrow weight and dia. but archers mark is what most all of us use for tournaments now. I believe they have a print option but I've never looked into it.
As another alternative, a plain avery label, a sharpie, and some time at the range will work just as well...

^^^ very good advice right here.

 

[hardcore247]

I did the same thing as Justin, but then if you are handy in excel you can transfer that over and print out a clean tape. When I did this I spaced each cell so I had my in between yardages. I had just printed it on normal labels then covered it in scotch tape. Going on year number 3 with it. Seems to hold up pretty well.

 

[slowyota]

The Archers Program is awesome. Sight in at 20 and 40 on the "Scale". Put those numbers into the program, print the sight tape on a printer label. Cover with packing tape (waterproof), cut it out, attach to sight and I can shoot between 20 and 150 yds and its on the mark every time.

Sighting in slider literally takes me 10 minutes start to finish.

 

[squeekieslayer]

few things to keep in mind....

the "garbage in; garbage out" theory is never more apparent then when someone has a sight tape made off of bad marks. Take the time to sight in and get marks for everything from 20-100 yards so you know that what your tape is telling you is at least close to your real world numbers. You would be amazed at how bad a "good enough for me" tape can shoot at extended yardage.

Do not use your 20 yard mark for getting numbers on a program. Believe it or not, you can probably move your sight up to 6-8 clicks either direction and still feel like you are hitting perfectly. If you have to use 20, make sure you sight in inside and after many many arrows or rounds before you use it. If you are even a few clicks off it can throw your long yardage marks off considerably no matter how great the other mark is. I try to use at least 30.

To build off of the above comment, the further you have between the 2 marks you use the better as well.

Do not use your chrono or even worse, your guess at speed to make a tape. Use the marks you have and trust them, do not worry about what it is estimating your speed at... it will make you pull all of your hair out.

Joe

 

[dangerousD]

few things to keep in mind....

the "garbage in; garbage out" theory is never more apparent then when someone has a sight tape made off of bad marks. Take the time to sight in and get marks for everything from 20-100 yards so you know that what your tape is telling you is at least close to your real world numbers. You would be amazed at how bad a "good enough for me" tape can shoot at extended yardage.

Do not use your 20 yard mark for getting numbers on a program. Believe it or not, you can probably move your sight up to 6-8 clicks either direction and still feel like you are hitting perfectly. If you have to use 20, make sure you sight in inside and after many many arrows or rounds before you use it. If you are even a few clicks off it can throw your long yardage marks off considerably no matter how great the other mark is. I try to use at least 30.

To build off of the above comment, the further you have between the 2 marks you use the better as well.

Do not use your chrono or even worse, your guess at speed to make a tape. Use the marks you have and trust them, do not worry about what it is estimating your speed at... it will make you pull all of your hair out.

Joe

Good advice. I know it's a very basic program but the XSight works well for me and I do exactly this and enter my actual numbers for each yardage out to 100. And you are spot on about using something more than 20 as the starting point. Real easy to be off at close range.

 

[bowtech3dhunter]

Good advice. I know it's a very basic program but the XSight works well for me and I do exactly this and enter my actual numbers for each yardage out to 100. And you are spot on about using something more than 20 as the starting point. Real easy to be off at close range.

Another stupid question here, but where are you getting your "numbers" from? Does that program have you print off a blank tape that has numbers on it that you use for sighting in? If not how are you getting your numbers?

 

[RosinBag]

The numbers correspond to where your sight is set. The sliders have scales on them to read and get numbers.

If new to sight tape building I highly recommend not using two marks that are 20 yards apart and under 50 yards. Your tape will not be accurate at long distance , it is impossible.

The single click in a Tommy Hogg at 20 yards is the difference of about a 1/16" to an 1/8". You will have about 6 clicks to a yard at 20, roughly. You also have very little movement even at 40. So you want to spread those marks out. At 80 or 90 you can actually see the difference in where your group has moved with one click so you can be more precise.

So 30 and 90 are what I shoot in, even then after about 105 my tape starts to shoot low if I don't adjust with the shot in data at the longer distances.

A tape that is dead nuts out to say 120 is not easy and it takes time.

I use Archers Mark in the field and will shoot my 30 and 90 in. I will then shoot 50 and 70 off what the program spits out and will enter corrections as needed. The I shoot 120 of the programs mark and make adjustments off that.

Then I make my tape with Archers Advantage . If my tape matches at 30, 50, 70, 90 and 120, it will be perfect everywhere between.

 

[dangerousD]

Another stupid question here, but where are you getting your "numbers" from? Does that program have you print off a blank tape that has numbers on it that you use for sighting in? If not how are you getting your numbers?

For me, I use the numbers from the dial on the Spot Hogg. Is that what you're asking? The XSight program just has some setup parameters that will ask you how many "marks per inch" are on your scale/dial. You have to extrapolate what the mpi would be. There are 100 marks on the dial. Then imagine if those marks were printed uniform around the perimeter of the dial where your tape goes. You basically determine the circumference of the dial where your tape will be and divide that into your 100 marks on the dial. I use 17 mpi in my setup. Circumference of the dial is about 5.88" I think. 100/5.88=17. There is a correction factor in the program to tweak it either way.

If you use this program, I can post up some screen shots of the setup and maybe help more. Hope I didn't just muddy the waters. I'm no expert. Just what has worked for me.

 

[bowtech3dhunter]

some screen shots would be great. I am shooting a Boss Hogg so I'm assuming the mpi would be the same.

 

[dangerousD]

some screen shots would be great. I am shooting a Boss Hogg so I'm assuming the mpi would be the same.

As far as I know, the size of the dials are the same on all the Spot Hogg's, but have never paid close attention. I have the Tommy Hogg.

 

[chobbs]

Do yourself a favor and get the TAPS program if you are using any spot Hogg dial. I run a shop and have used many programs. I know for a fact that OT2 does not correctly calculate for a spot Hogg dial. That is from my personal experience and also directly from the engineer that wrote the OT 2 program. TAPS works perfect with only one chrono speed plugged in and will get you within 1-3 yards at a range of 100 yards.