sahunter06
WKR
Good looking knives. Many opinions. You’ll need to have a budget and stick to it. I’ve been at this for over a decade myself as a hobby. Quality not quantity. Forge and stock removal.
As for beginner forging steels, many mastersmiths advise 1084, 5160 or W2 ( hamon) because of the ease of forging, normalizing and tempering.
Stock removal I’ll use SS series 440c, AEB-L, cpm154. You want high chromium above 12% in those steels which provide the water resistant ( ability to pit from water stains) unlike high carbon steels.
As far as the 8670 ( from Pops) you can forge it or stock removal just like 1084. 8670 is heat treat ready 1500 10 minutes, Parks 50 then slap between aluminum plates to reduce warp. Temper cycles vary on your Rc. I’ve gotten 58-62 depending on your temper cycles. I live down the road from Pops and have many discussions about steel and their properties.
It’s easy to let the equipment expenses get away from you.
If you have any questions shoot me a message.
There are plenty of discussions/pictures about knives throughout the Slide so look around.
As for beginner forging steels, many mastersmiths advise 1084, 5160 or W2 ( hamon) because of the ease of forging, normalizing and tempering.
Stock removal I’ll use SS series 440c, AEB-L, cpm154. You want high chromium above 12% in those steels which provide the water resistant ( ability to pit from water stains) unlike high carbon steels.
As far as the 8670 ( from Pops) you can forge it or stock removal just like 1084. 8670 is heat treat ready 1500 10 minutes, Parks 50 then slap between aluminum plates to reduce warp. Temper cycles vary on your Rc. I’ve gotten 58-62 depending on your temper cycles. I live down the road from Pops and have many discussions about steel and their properties.
It’s easy to let the equipment expenses get away from you.
If you have any questions shoot me a message.
There are plenty of discussions/pictures about knives throughout the Slide so look around.
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