Anti seize and barrels

Marbles

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Well, on my stainless Tikka I had the action cerakoted, so the barrel was pulled and reinstalled. I'm going to put a 243 barrel from another stainless Tikka on that action, so I pulled both barrels. From the factory a grey anti seize compound is used. The gunsmith that cerakated my action clearly used copper anti seize. This got me curious as to what anti seize I should use (rather than grabbing whatever is on the shelf).

Turns out, copper and stainless steel do not play well together, and most anti seizes on the shelf are a mix of aluminum, copper, and graphite.

Henkel has this to say about it "However, it is important to remember that while many compounds exist for stainless steel, copper anti-seize on stainless steel will create inter-crystalline corrosion which can cause parts to crack or break when under heavy loads." https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/at/en/products/industrial-lubricants/anti-seize-compounds.html

Sounds like a potential problem using copper on a stainless pressure vessel designed to contain over 65,000 psi. Granted, until today I did not know this, but it is one more reason I do work myself whenever possible. Only thing worse than screwing up a job myself is paying someone else to do it wrong.

Anyway, aluminum only anti seize is safe for stainless, so is nickel. I was able to track down a tube of nickel anti seize after going to three stores, and the third one only had it in the back, not on the shelf.
 
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Vern400

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Just use the Loctite silver color anti sieze. The Loctite C5A red color copper Loctite is good stuff but not the right application for guns.
I use the same bottle for my truck, tractor, sawmill, and barrels. You don't need special gun stuff. O'Reilly stuff works fine.
 

V35B

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I have used Lucas Red and Tacky grease for a long many years on tenons, probably 400 plus barrels and have never seen an issue, none of my customers have complained. These type things get over thought most of the time.
 

Weldor

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Nickel based or foodgrade. Food grade anti seize is made specifically for stainless and high temps.
 

gbflyer

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I have used Lucas Red and Tacky grease for a long many years on tenons, probably 400 plus barrels and have never seen an issue, none of my customers have complained. These type things get over thought most of the time.

Yes, same.
 

Sled

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All the research I've done on it led me to nickel based antiseize. That's what I've been using for the last decade or so. No issues so far but I never tried other products so...
 
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Marbles

Marbles

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I have used Lucas Red and Tacky grease for a long many years on tenons, probably 400 plus barrels and have never seen an issue, none of my customers have complained. These type things get over thought most of the time.
People use all kinds of random shit from various anti seize, ATF, motor oil, grease, you name it. The only issues I've ever heard of is people who use nothing.

I will not argue with the over thinking, and I agree that many things other than anti seize can get the job done.

My specific complaint is copper on stainless, I will venture a guess that incidence of a cracked/blown action from it would be in the single digits per 10,000. Which is to say it will probably be fine, but when so much else works, it appears better to just avoid copper.





This is a size story to give an idea of how I try to think, feel free to skip it. Also, I cannot locate my copy of Nine Lives of an Alaskan Bush Pilot to confirm the details, so the gest is correct, but don't hold me to the specifics.

Manny years ago a helicopter company (I think Bell) had weights on the end of rotors that were on a threaded rod and used to balance the rotors, these were 5,000 hour parts (i.e. replace after 5,000 hours of use). To save money, they switched from cutting the threads on the rod to rolling them, this made the rod threads a thousandth or so smaller in diameter than previously, they did not change the machining for the weights. The issue with this was discovered when a helicopter crashed catastrophically after the threads sheared and the weight blew the end of the rotor off after around 4,000 flight hours and everyone on the helicopter died.

A chamber and action cracking is a catastrophic failure, even if the failure rate was 1 in 1 million, why not just use grease or motor oil instead of copper given the potential consequences? We are not talking about a barrel going bad from pitting (I never clean), or a ballast strike on a can (I use thread adapters), both of which are annoying, but at worst cost a hunt and replacement of the part.
 

Kurts86

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All that really matters is that you have some barrier to prevent galvanic corrosion locking the barrel to the receiver. I could go down a mechanical engineering and material science rabbit hole but having something on the threads is 99% of the battle.
 
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