Another hunting dog questions IM SORRY.

[Kleos]

I am curious about those of you with bird/shed/tracking/hunting dogs. How much time each day are you socializing, training, and exercising.

I am trying to set myself up for success. This will be my first hunting dog. I have previously worked with german shepherds for other working-type jobs.

It would be helpful if you put the breed of dog you have and the amount of time each day you do with your dog.

Socializing. (ex hanging out with your dog, take to work, just hang out with on the couch, time spent with you and your family)
Training.
Exercising.
Crate / free roam house. (time left alone basically).

 

[Mosby]

I have a new 12 week old Vizsla pup. I work with him every day. Getting him to recognize his name, recall, crate training, house training, dealing with biting, jumping etc., He is with me all day most days. I'm retired and have all the time in the world. Most of his time is just having fun and being a pup.
At 5 months, he will get introduced to birds and more formal training will start.

I also have a 2 year old GSP. I work with her every day too. Right now, I am working to reinforce recall, change of direction and healing, which we do on daily walks. She will start roading soon...as soon as I get my atv fixed.

Training is short and no more than a few reps ending with a lot of positive reinforcement. I make time to play with both every day too. Our dogs live in our house, so I spend a lot of time with them.

 

[IsThisHeaven]

I have a 7 year old Springer I bought as an 8 week old pup. With her it started with just off leash walks to get started. Then at 5 or 6 months old regular obedience work in the backyard along with regular off leash runs.

A few years later I got a started Pointer who was 3 at the time. She pointed and retrieved birds, came when she was called, and was whoa trained.

I try to get them on at least 30 minutes off leash runs at least 5 times per week. Right now we are able to go on longer runs because the weather is cooper (not too hot/not too cold) and the woodcock are migrating through. I don’t do as much formal training with them anymore. But I whoa/sit them, the release them every time they go outside/come back inside and while feeding them.

A big thing for me is keeping them in shape. I see lots of dogs every August that haven’t been worked since the prior winter who are very overweight and out of shape. I try to keep my dogs in shape all year with the regular off leash runs and swimming/retrieving in the summer. And while I don’t do a ton of formal obedience work with them anymore (still some), I work obedience in periodically every day. I work from home. My dogs spend most of every day with me. I also think its important that your dogs want to go be around/go with you.

I don’t waterfowl hunt. I only hunt upland birds, mainly pheasants, with some quail, grouse and woodcock mixed in.

 

[Wellsdw]

I like to break my “dog work” into 3 categories. Unstructured, basic fetch off leash walks in the woods or tug. Structured, obedience work, commands, structured retrieve and leashed walks. An last is training, training is specific and targeted to my dogs function which is tracking. Usually i do 2 categories a day in about 20-30 minute sessions.

 

[loganwayne]

ive got two French brittanys 10 and 3 years old. i have an acre and a half yard fenced in. we play fetch 45 minutes to an hour everyday to really get them wore out when I get home, the 10 year old is starting to show his age now and will watch after the first 6-7 throws then start again once he rested some. pretty much anytime I'm out scouting they are with me in the woods. They both stay out of the kennel all the time in the house, once they got over about a year old, both dogs are part of the family and go pretty much any where we go besides work.

we moved in the last six months up until we got ready to move i had pigeons that i could work them with every couple of days if the weather was cool enough.

 

[KurtR]

2 year old lab . Lots of fun , socializing and work on obedience every day till 6 months then formal training starts. This depends on the dog but I found with mine 6 days and a day off keep his attitude good. Some times a couple days off. That’s doesn’t mean obedience isn’t worked on it’s when we are doing hard mental concepts or drills that can get boring.

He never just free roams he is either in the kennel or I am paying attention to him.

Find a club or pick a program or a program to guide you but every dog is different so you have to be able to read them so fixing one problem does not cause two others. I have learned the hard way

 

[Voyageur]

Mountain View Cur
Amos is a do everything dog...camping, backpacking (carries his food), canoeing, coons, decoys coyotes, blood trails, shed hunts...No formal training other than just bringing him along on excursions and daily walks and around the home place activities (food plots, tree planting, fencing, etc. He's quick to figure an activity out. Only in the house evenings during the winter months. Right now he is helping me educate Gus, a 12 week old Mountain View Cur.

 

[Salmonchaser]

We do three to five miles hiking every day. Terrain varies. Actually that is the distance I travel the girls are off lead unless we run into some sort of trouble. Bears, porcupines that kind of thing. They are 10 and 11 and I guided with them for most of their lives, they have the basics down but we still spend time each day making sure they remember. Some days are unstructured from the time we cross the fence until we get back, most days I’ll interject some drill, heeling, whoa kinds of things. I’m particularly watchful if we bump into game birds so they don’t get sloppy. I focus the unstructured days on low probability areas.
They live in the house in the evening, garage/kennel at night. During the day they free range about 2 acres but spend most of the day just waiting for us to come outside. If we are away from home for the day they are kenneled even though it’s been more than 6 years since one left the property.
They are GSPs
This year we didn’t guide bird hunts, left home Dec 1, drove 9000 miles towing an Airstream. Spent 3 months on the road. I figured the boss would end up shooting the three of us. Dogs did great, ended up stuffing the stuff we kept in the back seat in their crates and letting them ride in the truck.
Never spoil your bird dog.

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

I chimed in on your other thread. With the direction you're going it's really very very simple. Do not over think it.

The answer is as much as possible. Simply take your dog EVERYWHERE and expose your pup to EVERYTHING. Truck rides, cattle, birds, other dogs (male/female, neutered and uncut-all of them). Exposed to kids, sounds, etc.

A quality dog will learn on it's own and can be Turn Key with simply a little structure.

The most simple training tip I've ever received was "Encourage what you like, discourage what you don't". If you've worked with "working dogs" you should know to be clear and timing is key. Your puppy picks up a Shed and you like that behavior.....jazz him up and pay him off...."WHAT A GOOD BOYY!!!!!!". Puppy gets mouthy with shoes, your hand, your kid....instant "NO" or "Ahhhhht". Whatever you choose, simply stay consistent.

He points birds, even Robins.....and you want a pointing dog....Pay him off "GOOD BOY".

You can dial them back easier than you can dial them up. Woods walks or prairie walks or swamp/river walks...whatever. Let him full the nose and brain to the max in the first several months. As I said...you can dial the dog back later.

It's difficult to push a dog out for more range....so let him rip as a pup. Don't nag the poor pup. So many people are up the pup's ass non stop. "Regal...here....here Regal". If you're in an urban environment where you need control with a young dog...move. Go somewhere else.

Last tip is You make the Human decision....let the dog make Dog decisions. You need to make good choices for the dog. Set him up for success and exposure.

 

[Voyageur]

Extremely well put, @Jesse Jaymes

 

[SuperDUECE22]

mine as well lock the thread, @Jesse Jaymes gave you the best answer you'll ever get

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

Last thing that came to mind after reading how Voyageur operates is: You're either Training or Untraining.

My dogs only know about 3 commands. But one of the biggest things I learned with my last few dogs is "FREE". Meaning....if I tell you to Down (and mean it) you're Down. And that's until I tell you otherwise. That's me out of sight, that's speaking to someone on a walk, that's while I move a porcupine into a place you can't get him. It's F'ing DOWN.

Free is simply releasing the dog to be a Dog. His time. You don't really train "Free". It starts day one. Walk the dog on Lead....unclip him..."FREE" His time. Released from a down, FREE. Open the truck door and you don't care where he blows off steam and what he pisses on...FREE.

I now let my dogs sleep with us on the bed. Never did as a single guy. Mrs loves them. But if that's the Rule....then that's the Rule. Allow them on the bed....and you're UnTraining. Allow them to NOT come when called....you're UnTraining. Allow them to drop a bird after ForceFetch...you're UnTraining.

You choose what's important to You as the Handler. And stick with it.

Like I said....my dogs CAN be Savages. if I allow them, But people LOVE them and all 3 "tricks". I can take them into a bar or outside restaurant and place them under the table. I put them there until I tell them Free. They get up without me telling them and we go Hand's On. The "regular people" shriek with disapproval. But my dogs behave. They are not free PetsMart, let's go choose a ball for Buster dogs. They are not Dog Park ass sniffers. One would probably kill or injure another dog. But I make the Human decision and not put him in those situations. I make the Human decision to roll up the truck window when a barn cat crosses the dirt road. And I make the Human decision to not shoot geese that could glide out crippled over thin ice.

Make good human decisions, let the dog be a dog (especially as a youngster). Throw on a Here, Heel and Down and release with Free. And you'll have a very fine and huntable dog with minimal work.

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

Thank you both. I'm just a novice with a couple decent dogs.

 

[KurtR]

When i hear people screaming here here here with no correction after the first one your just teaching them to ignore you

 

[SuperDUECE22]

Thank you both. I'm just a novice with a couple decent dogs.

no worries, just good SIMPLE advice. The single best command my 3 yr. old lab knows is "PLACE" which can be anything from an elevated bed to a small rug to the 4wheeler rack, but when i say place, she isn't moving for nothing no matter what

 

[Salmonchaser]

Last thing that came to mind after reading how Voyageur operates is: You're either Training or Untraining.

My dogs only know about 3 commands. But one of the biggest things I learned with my last few dogs is "FREE". Meaning....if I tell you to Down (and mean it) you're Down. And that's until I tell you otherwise. That's me out of sight, that's speaking to someone on a walk, that's while I move a porcupine into a place you can't get him. It's F'ing DOWN.

Free is simply releasing the dog to be a Dog. His time. You don't really train "Free". It starts day one. Walk the dog on Lead....unclip him..."FREE" His time. Released from a down, FREE. Open the truck door and you don't care where he blows off steam and what he pisses on...FREE.

I now let my dogs sleep with us on the bed. Never did as a single guy. Mrs loves them. But if that's the Rule....then that's the Rule. Allow them on the bed....and you're UnTraining. Allow them to NOT come when called....you're UnTraining. Allow them to drop a bird after ForceFetch...you're UnTraining.

You choose what's important to You as the Handler. And stick with it.

Like I said....my dogs CAN be Savages. if I allow them, But people LOVE them and all 3 "tricks". I can take them into a bar or outside restaurant and place them under the table. I put them there until I tell them Free. They get up without me telling them and we go Hand's On. The "regular people" shriek with disapproval. But my dogs behave. They are not free PetsMart, let's go choose a ball for Buster dogs. They are not Dog Park ass sniffers. One would probably kill or injure another dog. But I make the Human decision and not put him in those situations. I make the Human decision to roll up the truck window when a barn cat crosses the dirt road. And I make the Human decision to not shoot geese that could glide out crippled over thin ice.

Make good human decisions, let the dog be a dog (especially as a youngster). Throw on a Here, Heel and Down and release with Free. And you'll have a very fine and huntable dog with minimal work.

Very well thought out response.

 

[mwebs]

Last thing that came to mind after reading how Voyageur operates is: You're either Training or Untraining.

My dogs only know about 3 commands. But one of the biggest things I learned with my last few dogs is "FREE". Meaning....if I tell you to Down (and mean it) you're Down. And that's until I tell you otherwise. That's me out of sight, that's speaking to someone on a walk, that's while I move a porcupine into a place you can't get him. It's F'ing DOWN.

Free is simply releasing the dog to be a Dog. His time. You don't really train "Free". It starts day one. Walk the dog on Lead....unclip him..."FREE" His time. Released from a down, FREE. Open the truck door and you don't care where he blows off steam and what he pisses on...FREE.

I now let my dogs sleep with us on the bed. Never did as a single guy. Mrs loves them. But if that's the Rule....then that's the Rule. Allow them on the bed....and you're UnTraining. Allow them to NOT come when called....you're UnTraining. Allow them to drop a bird after ForceFetch...you're UnTraining.

You choose what's important to You as the Handler. And stick with it.

Like I said....my dogs CAN be Savages. if I allow them, But people LOVE them and all 3 "tricks". I can take them into a bar or outside restaurant and place them under the table. I put them there until I tell them Free. They get up without me telling them and we go Hand's On. The "regular people" shriek with disapproval. But my dogs behave. They are not free PetsMart, let's go choose a ball for Buster dogs. They are not Dog Park ass sniffers. One would probably kill or injure another dog. But I make the Human decision and not put him in those situations. I make the Human decision to roll up the truck window when a barn cat crosses the dirt road. And I make the Human decision to not shoot geese that could glide out crippled over thin ice.

Make good human decisions, let the dog be a dog (especially as a youngster). Throw on a Here, Heel and Down and release with Free. And you'll have a very fine and huntable dog with minimal work.

This is a good tip, I have the same command for my dog but use “OK.” I use it to let her off heel, stay, down, etc. It’s very useful and helps with overall obedience. How would a dog know how long you want them to stay if you don’t have this command?

 

[cod007]

I chimed in on your other thread. With the direction you're going it's really very very simple. Do not over think it.

The answer is as much as possible. Simply take your dog EVERYWHERE and expose your pup to EVERYTHING. Truck rides, cattle, birds, other dogs (male/female, neutered and uncut-all of them). Exposed to kids, sounds, etc.

A quality dog will learn on it's own and can be Turn Key with simply a little structure.

The most simple training tip I've ever received was "Encourage what you like, discourage what you don't". If you've worked with "working dogs" you should know to be clear and timing is key. Your puppy picks up a Shed and you like that behavior.....jazz him up and pay him off...."WHAT A GOOD BOYY!!!!!!". Puppy gets mouthy with shoes, your hand, your kid....instant "NO" or "Ahhhhht". Whatever you choose, simply stay consistent.

He points birds, even Robins.....and you want a pointing dog....Pay him off "GOOD BOY".

You can dial them back easier than you can dial them up. Woods walks or prairie walks or swamp/river walks...whatever. Let him full the nose and brain to the max in the first several months. As I said...you can dial the dog back later.

It's difficult to push a dog out for more range....so let him rip as a pup. Don't nag the poor pup. So many people are up the pup's ass non stop. "Regal...here....here Regal". If you're in an urban environment where you need control with a young dog...move. Go somewhere else.

Last tip is You make the Human decision....let the dog make Dog decisions. You need to make good choices for the dog. Set him up for success and exposure.

Yep, this!

 

[2ski]

So many places to get exposure. Let your puppy be a puppy and learn the rules. Take it to the hardware store. The park. In the car. In the woods. Find people kids and other dogs. The more he gets that the more confident he will be. I see that in the difference between my dog and my brother's dog. Mine is way more confident around public places than his.

 

[CodeMonkey]

Get yourself a beagle. They're like your best buddy from college. They'll sit around the couch all day, happily snoring away, but when it's "go time" a switch gets flipped and all of a sudden, they are capable of shocking feats of agility and athletics.

Amazing with kids, and will always put on a smile for the ladies in yoga pants at the park. This has nearly gotten me in trouble with the Mrs. several times.

Will find sheds, small/large mammals, and most anything else that smells interesting. Mine loves to eat enough deer poop to puke, and will only then maybe find a shed or two.

Picture of the shit eater below.