Pics worked for me... What do you mean the leg came loose - was it not hooked by the bottom support? I liked the thicker wire because it seemed much more stable/solid.
Well, if you look at the photo, I have it clipped like you suggested. However, at some point that little clip worked itself off the leg where it was holding. It could have easily been from me messing with stuff. The thinner legs were plenty stable enough regarding the weight of the stove and all of that.
What have you found to be the best way for cutting out the door pieces? I tried using the metal blade on my dewalt oscillating tool and it just chewed the plates up. I managed to get the door cut out, but it doesn't look pretty.
Grinder with a cut-off wheel, or will a tin snips get the job done?
bbrown would have to answer the type of wire for the legs on the thicker legs I have pictured on the last page. However, I have used wire harvested from clothes hangers with good success too.
It's the wire used to suspend grid ceilings or acoustical grid ceilings (I work in construction). I'm using "#9" wire which is a bit thicker and I sent both #9 and #12 wire to colonel00. You should be able to find it at Home Depot by the ceiling grid section which should be close to the drywall.
As far as bending it, I used a pair of lineman's plyers and it was basically a bunch of guess and checking. I can measure the distances between bends but it may vary depending on your stove size.
Hopefully this makes sense but bending them so they go into the face and basically lever again the stove plates and holding them with the lower stove body support makes for a solid set up. Plus going into the face means no extra holes in the stove body.
I had a little time to play around yesterday and fashioned a simple latch to keep the door closed.
Here is a pic of the legs. Basically I found that once inserted in the holes on the front of the plate, I could spread the legs out a bit and that "peak" in the middle drops down.