Another DIY Stove

[gudspelr]

I also ordered the Ti from liteoutdoors. Great to deal with.

Jeremy

 

[JigStick]

I could not source stainless or titanium all thread around me. So I had to go with zinc plated. How are you guys handling that? Just burn the stove hot in an open area to burn off the zinc before using it inside your shelter?

 

[colonel00]

I could not source stainless or titanium all thread around me. So I had to go with zinc plated. How are you guys handling that? Just burn the stove hot in an open area to burn off the zinc before using it inside your shelter?

Off the top of my head I believe, and very well could be wrong, that it has to get to 700 degrees or more to put off toxic fumes. That said, do a hot burn in it in the open or with the tent open and you outside and you should be fine.

I think you can also use vinegar to eat the zinc off

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[JigStick]

Well i pretty much done with mine. I got my front and rear panels done. Im just waiting for my titanium and SS coil from TiGoat to finish it off. Finding a way to attach the legs in a secure manner took some tinkering. What I ended up doing is drilling a 1/4in hole through the lip of the plate, and then passing a 1/4in diameter piece of "all thread" through the hole, securing it with wing nuts from above and below. I had to buzz the tabs on the wing nuts to clear my door, but the legs are sturdy and easy to put on.

I ended up using stainless rivets to attach my door hinges, damper, and door latch. worked out good.

 

[DenverCountryBoy]

Could you just use bolts and wing nuts instead of all thread and two wing nuts?

 

[Napperm4]

Could you just use bolts and wing nuts instead of all thread and two wing nuts?

You could but it wouldn’t stand very securely.

I used these and bolts :

Access Denied

Works like a charm and solid as a rock.

 

[JigStick]

Used my stove in 0* temps here in western PA during out flint lock season. Stove was sturdy and very efficient. However Im having some sort of drafting problem. My door has two 1in holes to supply air, which I can close off. With the vents wide open and the door closed the stove would exhaust some smoke out the vent holes and it sounded like a jet engine. If I would crack the door a tad it immediately stopped.

I find it hard to believe that these vent holes are under sized. The total area of these holes is larger than the holes in my Seek Outside stove. Im using an 8ft stainless pipe. My only thought is that pipe wasn't drafting hard enough because it was just so dam cold out. Anybody else have issues like this?

 

[Napperm4]

Used my stove in 0* temps here in western PA during out flint lock season. Stove was sturdy and very efficient. However Im having some sort of drafting problem. My door has two 1in holes to supply air, which I can close off. With the vents wide open and the door closed the stove would exhaust some smoke out the vent holes and it sounded like a jet engine. If I would crack the door a tad it immediately stopped.

I find it hard to believe that these vent holes are under sized. The total area of these holes is larger than the holes in my Seek Outside stove. Im using an 8ft stainless pipe. My only thought is that pipe wasn't drafting hard enough because it was just so dam cold out. Anybody else have issues like this?

My home made stove did the same thing at first. 9”x15” cylinder with 3” chimney for reference. I ended up with 3 x 1 1/8” holes (maxed out my step bit) and it took care of it.

On the other hand I have a Lite outdoors 12” Stove that does the exact same thing when I have it roaring after it’s first lit no matter the temp.

Both calm down and doors stop rattling once the flue heats up and the fire dies down.

We had serious issues with the stove in our wall tent from a similar reason. Another trick I learned with that was to build the fire directly under the chimney and leave the door and damper fully open until everything heated up and it would start drafting better.

Simple bush fix, no extra holes and we didn’t have to open the tent doors to let smoke out anymore.

 

[colonel00]

I think it's normal actually. If you think about it, your pipe is huge compared to your intake holes. If you have a lot of air moving out of your pipe, it is going to be sucking through your intake to match that needed volume. Now, if you have a damper in your exhausts pipe, you can close that down to reduce the amount of air flowing out which will in turn reduce the amount of air being sucked in.

For me, I love that afterburner effect. Typically, I have my door cracked a bit and just use a stick propped up to hold the door in place. When I add new wood or need to stoke the fire a bit, that afterburner comes in handy.

 

[Napperm4]

Completely agree with you. My first diy stoves were not normal though. Had to open the doors of the tent to let the smoke out so we didn’t all choke.

Now we take pride in the new design we lovingly refer to as “the incinerator” due to the afterburner effect.

That’s the way they should work with proper venting / drafting in my opinion. Not leaking smoke back out of the vent holes into the tent. That was where the larger air holes came into play. It created the afterburner effect where the flames sometimes shoot out the vents and get sucked back in making the doors rattle. Awesome. But they carry all the smoke immediately out too.

My thoughts on it were if the holes are too big I can always close the vents / damper to regulate the flow but it’s tough to make the holes bigger 20 miles in

 

[rbinhood]

Lite Outdoors is now selling TI threaded rods to hold the front and back of the stove together. Titanium Rods -

 

[CDNPO]

Lite Outdoors is now selling TI threaded rods to hold the front and back of the stove together. Titanium Rods -

I just had a set come in the mail. Looking forward to trying them on my doctored Smith stove

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[young7.3]

Heres my DIY stainless steel stove. Its only 12” long but puts out plenty heat and provides a 2 hour burn.

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[snowburns]

How are the all thread legs attached to the end plates? IE, what's the name of that piece of hardware?

 

[Napperm4]

How are the all thread legs attached to the end plates? IE, what's the name of that piece of hardware?

They’re called threadserts.

Paulin Papc 8-32 Thread-Sert Kits | The Home Depot Canada

Also available with a gun similar to a river gun. Much better quality than the linked style but bigger investment if you’re only using them for a single stove build.


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[young7.3]

For those of you that have used the threadserts (rivet nut), did you use aluminum or stainless steel? I used stainless steel on mine but they were such a PIA to get squished. Was wandering if aluminum would hold up to the heat?


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[Napperm4]

For those of you that have used the threadserts (rivet nut), did you use aluminum or stainless steel? I used stainless steel on mine but they were such a PIA to get squished. Was wandering if aluminum would hold up to the heat?


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I use brass myself. Easy to set and have held up just fine to heat


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[young7.3]

I use brass myself. Easy to set and have held up just fine to heat


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Where do you source the brass nutserts?


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[Napperm4]

Where do you source the brass nutserts?


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I steal them from my machine shop. They tell me we source them from Gregg distributors up here in Canada


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[Napperm4]

Where do you source the brass nutserts?


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Did a quick google search. They should be readily available almost anywhere

I found some online at Walmart, Lowes, amazon and a lot of auto parts stores.


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