Another Arrow Question - Thanks and sorry in advance

[540-Virginian]

I have two arrow builds and would love some opinions.

Shooting:
- Bowtech Revolt X (33" axle-to-axle)
- 60#
- 29.5" draw,
- QAD drop away rest

Two arrow setups I have (both using 100 gr heads). My arrow shafts are 29" (29.25" from knock point to cut):
- Gold Tip Hunters 400 spine, 8.2 gpi, total 389 gr (with knock, fletchings, wraps, field point, etc.)
- Easton Axis 5mm 400 spine, 9.0 gpi, total 413 gr

The GT's have the flatter trajectory as one would imagine, and tighter sight pins.
The Easton's drop a little more noticeably 25+ yards.

I don't know the FPS as the chrono is broken at the nearby shop. Should I find out the FPS (drive an hour/two to next closest shop)? I did the Omni Calculator online, and it it's calculating 287 for the GT's, and 280 for the Easton's.

As far as hunting Whitetail and Black Bear on the larger side (175 dressed bucks), and taking shots out to 40 yards, which do you think would be the better to hunt with?

Do you think a mechanical or fixed blade head would be better with these arrows and target game?

Last question, are you a fan of lighted nocks, and would the extra weight be unwise to add? My FOC's are both at 11%.

In the end, does it really matter at this point? OK with that is doesn't response . Thanks in advance!

 

[OR Archer]

If you’re dead set on those two arrow set ups definitely go with the axis. I’d opt for a good 3 blade cut on contact head also. You’ll have better penetration versus a mechanical with that light of a set up.

 

[540-Virginian]

If you’re dead set on those two arrow set ups definitely go with the axis. I’d opt for a good 3 blade cut on contact head also. You’ll have better penetration versus a mechanical with that light of a set up.

Thanks. I have Tooth Of The Arrow's I'm planning to hunt with in the future. 100 gr, 1" cutting diameter. I've been able to use their sharpener and get them scalpel sharp. I went with 1" thinking it'd help with accuracy.

 

[Greenmachine_1]

Add me to the Axis choice if you are going to only use those options.

I don't think you could go wrong with either, but I shoot Axis and that is probably influencing that choice that and I favor mass over speed.

I wouldn't worry too much about adding a lighted nock to the back of your arrow, if you want it and it is legal.

Bigger deal overall is to get a lot of arrows downrange to have confidence in your setup.

As for a broadhead, probably want a fixed head. I would try to use a larger cutting diameter head especially inside of 40. I've had good luck with QAD Exodus heads. I have some Ram Cats that fly okay for me. If you have the money, Iron Will wide have impressed me with their durability.

Good luck on your choice.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Billy Goat]

I don't see much difference at all with either arrow. Both are pretty close to the same.

I'd likely shoot a coc like recommended but around here you can get along ok with a high quality mechanical, no way would I use a Rage.

I'm not a big fan of light up nocks, unless you get a firenock I think they are pretty inconsistent.

I'm a little surprised you can get those to tune at that length. 60# with a 29" arrow seems weak to me. I'd think you should be 350-340 spine.

 

[540-Virginian]

I don't see much difference at all with either arrow. Both are pretty close to the same.

I'd likely shoot a coc like recommended but around here you can get along ok with a high quality mechanical, no way would I use a Rage.

I'm not a big fan of light up nocks, unless you get a firenock I think they are pretty inconsistent.

I'm a little surprised you can get those to tune at that length. 60# with a 29" arrow seems weak to me. I'd think you should be 350-340 spine.

Thanks for reply - I didn’t believe the 400 would work but tunes and flies great. The pro shop said they ‘tuned the bow to the arrow.’ I’m shooting bullets no problem and 1” groups at 40. Although I will get match grade arrows closer to season as there always seems to be 2-3 arrows that just fly poor.

 

[Billy Goat]

I don't see much difference at all with either arrow. Both are pretty close to the same.

Thanks for reply - I didn’t believe the 400 would work but tunes and flies great. The pro shop said they ‘tuned the bow to the arrow.’ I’m shooting bullets no problem and 1” groups at 40. Although I will get match grade arrows closer to season as there always seems to be 2-3 arrows that just fly poor.

You able to do that with broadheads on there?

I'm sure you can get great groups with fieldpoints, broadheads change the game.



I'm not trying to be a dick, just trying to help. Were you shooting the bow at the shop? Or did you pick up a tuned bow?

 

[Zac]

I'm pretty sure you are weak as well. As stated above you definitely need to check your broadhead flight. However you will probably be able to cut that shaft down to around 27 inches which would help stiffen it up significantly. If your already teetering on your FOC than I wouldn't recommend a lighted nock. However that would help your spine if you are running weak. A more subtle change would be adding a 4th vane and possibly a wrap if you are running a 3 fletch. Dudley says you can usually drop a spine with a wrap and 4 decent sized fletchings.

 

[JayTx]

Make sure you have enough fletching for a fixed blade. Test the arrows you have built with broadheads. If they're weak cut them down some like Zac said and see if you can get them to fly. Don't forget to nock tune those arrows it makes a huge difference in my broadhead flight.

 

[540-Virginian]

You able to do that with broadheads on there?

I'm sure you can get great groups with fieldpoints, broadheads change the game.



I'm not trying to be a dick, just trying to help. Were you shooting the bow at the shop? Or did you pick up a tuned bow?

no offense taken appreciate help. I’ve shot tuned with broadheads too. Have shot bow at shop when originally purchased and went back a few time for tweaks. The Pro Shop is great (just far away). I’ve shot 340’s with heavier point weight and FMJ but there were drastically slow and the FMJ horrible to tune with BHs. These 400s tune the best all around for my bow.

 

[540-Virginian]

I'm pretty sure you are weak as well. As stated above you definitely need to check your broadhead flight. However you will probably be able to cut that shaft down to around 27 inches which would help stiffen it up significantly. If your already teetering on your FOC than I wouldn't recommend a lighted nock. However that would help your spine if you are running weak. A more subtle change would be adding a 4th vane and possibly a wrap if you are running a 3 fletch. Dudley says you can usually drop a spine with a wrap and 4 decent sized fletchings.

cutting to 27” puts the broadhead behind my bow hand which I don’t like. But thanks for tip. I have 3 fletch 2” blazers on a 4” wrap.

you are making like added weight would be better for the lighter spine, wouldnt it be opposite: to reduce weight so it doesnt weaken? Increasing the weight on the arrow would likely need a 340 spine based off the Easton spine selector. Maybe I’m reading it / your post wrong...

 

[Billy Goat]

cutting to 27” puts the broadhead behind my bow hand which I don’t like. But thanks for tip. I have 3 fletch 2” blazers on a 4” wrap.

you are making like added weight would be better for the lighter spine, wouldnt it be opposite: to reduce weight so it doesnt weaken? Increasing the weight on the arrow would likely need a 340 spine based off the Easton spine selector. Maybe I’m reading it / your post wrong...

Increasing weight on the front of the arrow weakens the spine, increasing weight on the back stiffens the spine.



Curiosity is getting to me, where are you located? I can't imagine we are far apart. I'm around 235 on I-81.

 

[Beendare]

So many guys making the mistake you are making with the 400’s Cutting the spine too close on a hunting arrow.

I too would recommend 340’s

You are borderline underspined....and with a hunting arrow there is no reason not to shoot a more durable arrow.

I bet if you BH tune with the 400’s you will find they dont group.

 

[Jimbob]

If they are grouping broadheads great at far distances then how can we argue. However, all conventional wisdom says you are well underspined.

If you are buying new arrows anyway then I would move to the Axis 340.

 

[Zac]

cutting to 27” puts the broadhead behind my bow hand which I don’t like. But thanks for tip. I have 3 fletch 2” blazers on a 4” wrap.

you are making like added weight would be better for the lighter spine, wouldnt it be opposite: to reduce weight so it doesnt weaken? Increasing the weight on the arrow would likely need a 340 spine based off the Easton spine selector. Maybe I’m reading it / your post wrong...

Sorry I was confusing. You can stiffen up that shaft with weight to the back of the shaft. However you don't want to add so much that your FOC falls below 10 percent.

 

[406unltd]

I’d go with the heavier setup for sure and add a sharp 2 or 3 blade head. Also add a heavier vane with a 4 fletch. Then again I’d just move to a 340 spine and and also use the above mentioned pieces. Good luck