Annihilator Broadheads POA/POI Shift

[farhund]

Hello All,

I recently purchased some Annihilator broad heads in 125 grain. What drew me to them was the one-piece design and consistent good reviews I have seen.

I put three on and shot them side by side with field points to determine if there would be point of aim/ point of impact shift from the field points. At 30 yards I was seeing consistent signs of the Annihilators impacting to the left of my field points. I switched the Annihilators to different arrows to determine if it was a vane/arrow build issue. I also alternated my shots from field points to broad heads. I then walked back to 40 yards and observed even more shift. I've attached a photo of the results. All three arrows to the left had Annihilators, while the other three are field points.

I contacted Annihilator to see if they have had these issues before and the response I received was they believe it was a bow tuning issue. I had issues paper tuning the bow and had to adjust my grip to finally solve it. I was getting a consistent paper tear right, with the same arrows, but was able to adjust my grip to solve it.

I'm fairly new to Archery and just want some advice on how other bow hunters have solved these issues. Do you just tune your bow to the broadheads and only practice with them or is there something I am missing? I would like to be able to practice with field points.

My setup:

Prime Centergy 70lb 29" DL
Easton Axis 340's, Blazer vanes
QAD HDX ultra rest
Black Gold 5 pin

 

[Boxerboxer]

At 30 yards your broadheads and field points will group together provided:
1. Your bow is setup correctly - cam timing correct, nock point where it should be, D loop right, etc
2. Your arrow is properly tuned to your bow - spine, point wieght and shaft length allow it to fly true from your setup, and your broadhead spins true.
3. Your form (consistency of grip, anchor, alignment, shot activation) isn't causing variation.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

 

[SDHNTR]

Your issues have nothing to do with the broadheads.

 

[Reburn]

You are most likely underspined. Start there. Switch to 300's.

 

[SDHNTR]

Definitely underspined at 70# 29” and 125 tips with 340’s.

 

[Zac]

You are probably underspined, yet you probably still have a right tear. Your broadheads are planing to the left which indicated a R tear. A couple things you could try. First bump your rest ever so slighty to the left. This may fix your problem. If it is a spine issue, you may be able to cut your arrows as short as possible. You would wan't the broadhead literally right in front of the rest. If this doesn't work you can add more weight to the back of your arrow. Add a lighted nock, a wrap, or more fletching.

 

[Ucsdryder]

Zac has you going in the right direction. AlsoX play with the flexis. Tighten it all the way down, then loosen it In 1 turn increments. Don’t loosen more than 3 full turns. Sometimes it helps, sometimes it doesn’t.

 

[5MilesBack]

You already said you had a right tear issue........well, BH's will exacerbate any and all issues and they'll show up immediately in your shooting.......and they are. You still have a right tear issue.

 

[Ucsdryder]

I’ll add this. Having to adjust your form/grip to your bow rather than adjust your bow to your form, is a recipe for disaster. Go back to the pro shop, grip that bad boy who you feel comfortable, and have the shop see if they can get the bow shooting.

 

[Zac]

One thing I forgot to mention is that you can gradually turn down your poundage until your field tips are hitting with your broadheads. You could also use a fletched and a bare shaft to accomplish the same thing.

 

[adamfuzz8]

I have noticed the same thing with my setup where the Annihilator's were impacting to the left of my field points. I ordered the Annihilator 125XL earlier this spring because I liked the slightly larger cutting diameter. Really solid head but I think I might need to do some more tuning and testing. I've only every shot fixed blade broadheads when I first started archery hunting when I was young and was only shooting 55 lbs and never shot over 20 yards at deer so never really had much tuning to do. I also switched arrows this spring and haven't shot them back thru paper to see how everything is tuned.

I did a bunch of searching for the arrow that I thought would be perfect for my setup and basically only hunting whitetail with hopes of using the same setup in a year or two to head out west to hunt elk. I ended up going with an Easton arrow and based on all the charts they provide I was having a rough time deciding which spine to go with but I think I went with the slightly heavier side since I wanted to load up the front of the arrow.

Is anyone willing to run my setup info through one of the spine selector apps to see if I might have made the correct choice.

My current setup is:

BOW SPECS: 2018 Hoyt REDWRX Carbon RX-1 Turbo. IBO velocity = 350 fps; draw length = 28" w/o d-loop; draw weight = 70 lbs; brace height = 5.875"; axle to axle = 32"; letoff % = 85%

ARROW SPECS: Easton 6mm HEXX 260 spine; point weight = 125 gr; insert weight = 50 gr; shaft length = 26"; shaft GPI = 9.3; fletch qty = 3; fletching weight (each) = 7.4 gr; nock weight = 25 gr; total weight of arrow is roughly 462 gr

WEIGHT ON STRING: peep = 8 gr; d-loop = 8 gr

 

[wildwilderness]

As mentioned form and tune are very important in less forgiving Broadheads.

Having tested lots of different designs over the decades, there are some general rules I have found with broadheads-

solids are less forgiving vs vented heads

Shorter broadheads are more forgiving

smaller cut diameter more forgiving

mechanicals are more forgiving

straighter, spin tested are way more forgiving

I've shot long enough that I know my form isn't perfect and that I can't get my tune perfect! So I generally test multiple heads to see what works best for each setup. Sometimes I just cant get a head to work to my satisfaction.

 

[Billy Goat]

I have noticed the same thing with my setup where the Annihilator's were impacting to the left of my field points. I ordered the Annihilator 125XL earlier this spring because I liked the slightly larger cutting diameter. Really solid head but I think I might need to do some more tuning and testing. I've only every shot fixed blade broadheads when I first started archery hunting when I was young and was only shooting 55 lbs and never shot over 20 yards at deer so never really had much tuning to do. I also switched arrows this spring and haven't shot them back thru paper to see how everything is tuned.

I did a bunch of searching for the arrow that I thought would be perfect for my setup and basically only hunting whitetail with hopes of using the same setup in a year or two to head out west to hunt elk. I ended up going with an Easton arrow and based on all the charts they provide I was having a rough time deciding which spine to go with but I think I went with the slightly heavier side since I wanted to load up the front of the arrow.

Is anyone willing to run my setup info through one of the spine selector apps to see if I might have made the correct choice.

My current setup is:

BOW SPECS: 2018 Hoyt REDWRX Carbon RX-1 Turbo. IBO velocity = 350 fps; draw length = 28" w/o d-loop; draw weight = 70 lbs; brace height = 5.875"; axle to axle = 32"; letoff % = 85%

ARROW SPECS: Easton 6mm HEXX 260 spine; point weight = 125 gr; insert weight = 50 gr; shaft length = 26"; shaft GPI = 9.3; fletch qty = 3; fletching weight (each) = 7.4 gr; nock weight = 25 gr; total weight of arrow is roughly 462 gr

WEIGHT ON STRING: peep = 8 gr; d-loop = 8 gr

While I'm not familiar with the broadheads you are trying to use, your shaft specs look alright, probably on the stiff side. You should be able to get them to tune. On that bow I'd set the centershot, then yoke tune.

Do some research on broadhead tuning with a yoke system. You will need a bow press.

 

[Samdemarais]

Hello All,

I recently purchased some Annihilator broad heads in 125 grain. What drew me to them was the one-piece design and consistent good reviews I have seen.

I put three on and shot them side by side with field points to determine if there would be point of aim/ point of impact shift from the field points. At 30 yards I was seeing consistent signs of the Annihilators impacting to the left of my field points. I switched the Annihilators to different arrows to determine if it was a vane/arrow build issue. I also alternated my shots from field points to broad heads. I then walked back to 40 yards and observed even more shift. I've attached a photo of the results. All three arrows to the left had Annihilators, while the other three are field points.

I contacted Annihilator to see if they have had these issues before and the response I received was they believe it was a bow tuning issue. I had issues paper tuning the bow and had to adjust my grip to finally solve it. I was getting a consistent paper tear right, with the same arrows, but was able to adjust my grip to solve it.

I'm fairly new to Archery and just want some advice on how other bow hunters have solved these issues. Do you just tune your bow to the broadheads and only practice with them or is there something I am missing? I would like to be able to practice with field points.

My setup:

Prime Centergy 70lb 29" DL
Easton Axis 340's, Blazer vanes
QAD HDX ultra rest
Black Gold 5 pin

Turn your poundage down a full turn or two and see if that changes it. If it does, you know you are under spined. Then you can decide to switch arrows or just keep shooting.