I have a couple annealers and have access to an AMP. I have done extensive tests with regard to group size, Velocity, SD. ( i use Labradar), and brass life/condition and the bottom line is I don't anneal any of my hunting brass and most of my target brass. To date I have tested 300 WM, 28 Nos., 308 Win, 280AI, 6 mm BR, 284 Win and 223. Most comparisons were 200 rounds + in each.
I have found the primer pockets get loose or incipient head separations occur before the necks start to split. Annealing won't help with the first 2.
All of the bras I hunt with are 1x or 2x fired in my gun , I won't risk a hunt on the small price of a piece of brass.
Overall brass fired 10x without annealing has the same or close to the same Group size, Velo, SD. and brass life. My 6mm BR loads had better SD when annealed and my 284 Win un-annealed brass had 10-15% split necks at 10X and up they are turned necks so somewhat thinner.
I don't subscribe to "If you think it works it works" I believe if I prove it works then it works.
Every gun/load is different so if you have the equipment take 20 new cases and load and shoot 10x in each annealing 10 every time and not in the other 10.
If you don't have the equipment just buy a couple hundred new brass shoot them all 1x, save 50 or so for hunting loads and the remaining brass will shoot good for practice till you need a new barrel.
When you hold a piece of brass in flame 3 things can happen
1) Brass Annealed
2) Brass not Annealed
3) Brass Ruined