Advice for choosing my path on an elk rifle

The min reason I’d suggest going down one step in recoil is because it’s usually a mistake to change a combination too much that has worked well for you.
 
How are you hunting elk? Hiking for miles or hunting where you watch a trail?

If I'm hunting a private ranch, it's probably my 270 Weatherby. If I'm hunting where I put a lot of miles on foot, my 270 Remington at 7 lbs scoped and loaded gets the nod. I can kill elk out to 519 yards with the 270, far enough for my skill level. IMO, there are more 800 yard elk rifles than 800 yard elk shooters. Yes, I know, there are many here but we are predominantly serious hunters.

In general, rifle choice depends upon how many miles you travel on foot and how many yards away you will shoot. Define that and the choices narrow significantly.
 
What brand of rifle is your 280ai? There doesn’t seem to be too many factory options… To get a light weight rifle for $1500ish it seemed like Kimber was the most highly regarded?
I might be called a Weatherby fanboy here, but my Mark V “Live Wild” in .280 AI is a slightly modified Mark V Hunter that sort of bridges the gap between the plain Mark V Hunter and the Carbon Fiber/Backcountry series rifles. It’s one of my favorites out of various makes/models of rifles I own. I don’t know if it will be light enough for what you’re wanting, but maybe?

I think mine with a Vortex Diamondback 4-12 and 4 rounds in the mag weights around 6-6.5 lbs but I’d have to check to verify that.
 
At your self imposed limit of 700-800 yards you aren’t gaining much of anything going to a 6.5prc with a 6.5CM sitting in the safe. It may sound bigger when you tell your buddies, but it’s the same bullet just more powder.

Now if you’re just wanting to go buy a new rifle. Tikka in a 6.5 PRC would be a pretty sweet rifle.
 
Thanks guys!! Very helpful and informative, except for one. There’s always at least one isn’t there…
No reason to be offended.

You asked a question that is asked dozens of times a year. Very few want to hear the truth.

A Tikka in 6.5 PRC and 280AI in a kimber are both going to push you around more than you'd think. I've got a Kimber MA in .308, with a brake, it still kicks like a mule, and more than any suppressed 300 I've shot at more normal weights (9-ish pounds)

Make sure you participate in the cold bore challenge with whatever magnum you decide on next Spring to show off that 7-800 yard marksmanship 😉
 
Do you want to buy a new rifle? I have a suspicion that just throwing a can on your WM isn’t going to give you the recoil reduction that you’re after.

I may be bias as I own a custom Tikka in 6.5PRC and it’s a badass rifle but idk that I would go out and build it again if I had a 300WM I could use for more stationary/longer range hunting and a 6.5CM sitting in the safe that I could potentially use for more mountain hunting.

My mind says the money you would spend on a new rifle setup you could easily dump into the two that you already have and end up with two very capable rifles for two different applications.

I think it’s gotta be asked: What rifle and setup is your 6.5CM?
 
@ianpadron isn't spewing baseless info. He and others on here with extensive experience know what they are talking about. Wounds created from a 300 and from a 6mm at like velocities are often indistinguishable from one another given correct bullet choice.

I'm also not 100% on any of the options proposed above - definitely open to your ideas.
Since youre open to ideas...and since youre using factory ammo and want a lightweight build, I would highly recommend something along the lines of a 6 creed. If your version of light weight is a little on the heavier side 6.5 prc is an excellent option for an 800 yard gun.

I mean this in the most genuine possible way, but out of curiosity, have you taken animals out to or close to your max distance? Did you experience something that made you think you needed "more gun"?
 
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