Adding kickstand to frame pack

[Bendejo]

I'm toying w the idea of adding some pop out legs to the back of my frame pack to make a lounge style seat for turkey hunting. Has anyone made this work? If so I'm interested in hearing some tips on design.
Pack in question is exo k3 frame.
I tried a u shape piece of half inch elec conduit, but getting a hinge point that won't rub on the pack frame maybe a challenge.
My guess is using some sacrificial trekking poles from Costco, then adding hinges that the poles sit in, to the frame.
Is this crazy talk?

 

[sram9102]

Someone on here rigged up the alps turkey chair legs to a framed pack for coyote hunting. Looked sweet. I have been toying with the idea for a while. If you figure out a good diy setup post up some pictures!!

 

[GunsAreFun]

I have thought about doing this with trekking poles for a camp chair on my K2 but never got around to it.

I’m sure it is something that could be rigged up with zip ties or Velcro strips.

 

[RS_Non-Res]

Something like this? golf bag stand

 

[DawnPatrol]

You might look at a commercially available pack like the Osprey Poco AG that has a built in kickstand for inspiration on a reliable mechanism/design.

If you have friends that like to hike with little kids, you should be able to lay hands on one of those packs pretty easily.

 

[Randle]

What about a couple arrows that slip it to a tab loop that is sewed shut on the top?

 

[kbar]

I love my alps enforcer, but I really wish it had more room in it. May see if I can move over to my frame pack one day.

 

[fulltiltaudio]

I have played with trying to use my Trekking poles that way with OK luck, but something with a more reliable locking mechanism would be better. Not even sure exactly how I attached them last time I tried.

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[mcr-85]

I went the other way and added a kifaru Stryker to a Sly Dog ground and pound chair for coyote hunting. I didn't like the bag on that chair.

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[MTPipeliner]

I have used my trecking poles on my SO Lanner. It’s a roll top bag, so I just slip the handles of the poles into the “pocket” created by the rolled down top. Adjust the poles to fit whatever ground you’re sitting on. It works out pretty well for sitting somewhere that you can’t just lean against a tree.

 

[artripb13]

I went the other way and added a kifaru Stryker to a Sly Dog ground and pound chair for coyote hunting. I didn't like the bag on that chair.

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I feel like this style would be easiest to retrofit. I'd probably go with something like a tent pole pocket instead of hinges and maybe add a strap accross the back of the pack connecting the two poles. Hopefully I have time before turkey season to try this out!

 

[Bendejo]

In a strange discovery, I found this by a company called pack rabbit. It's probably a little too "extra" for what my purpose is, but it certainly is different from what I've been seeing. I really like that concept on the kings pack too.

 

[westco24]

Different concept, but I like this seat I had sewn up. Cordura pouch with velcro opening for inflatable or foam pad, and some straps with gate keeper buckles to attach to pack frame. Attach the back of the pouch to bottom of your pack. Easy to take on/off, and good back support-and your seat doesn't blow away.

 

[dtchhuntr]

This is exactly what I had been toying with. I love my Alps turkey vest with built in chair, one of my favorite turkey items. But if I'm packing in a bigger blind, full array of decoys, etc, my Hoodlum will be much easier to pack it all. I bought a crazy creek camp chair to thrown in for now instead. Slip out of the pack and lounge away while the gobblers take 2 hours to come 100 yards...

 

[Bendejo]

So, I've been messing around in the shop last few weeks putting this together.

I used some thick kydex and created a backer plate that wraps around the top of the k3 frame. Secured some pole hinges I found at a marine supply place with 1/4"-20 screws and t-nutz through some tabs that I folded over around the frame.

2" adhesive backed Velcro on either side of the kydex frame makes a landing for the Velcro on the k3 flap that would normally marry to itself.

Costco carbon fiber trekking poles with the ends cut off gave me just enough length to clear the bottom of the pack. Bonus here is I can unscrew the hinge with my Leatherman and use the trekking poles if I choose, as they're still long enough my preference. I had to sand the hinge nubbins down a little to get them to press fit. I'll add some epoxy to secure the pole half of the hinge, once I find the right adhesive.

Sourced a super padded seat from my alpz turkey vest and was able to thread the Velcro straps through the sliders on the bottom of the pack easy enough. Some shock cord tied to the pad buckles and cord locks zip tied to the frame make for an adjustable retention for the seat when it's flipped back. I messed around with some magnets to hold the seat up, but will wait till I get some field time in the setup to see if I don't like the shock cord.

The whole thing is pretty comfortable when seated, and the seat folds up and down easily without having to adjust the cords. It won't stay put if I'm not using the seat pad. Sitting on it crates an anchor for the whole system.
I can adjust the pole length clips easy enough by just reaching back and one handing it, but am a little worried that one of the clips will come undone and I'll lose a pole section in the brush somewhere, but whatever for now.
There's some flex of the poles at the hinge, which makes me question the strength of the nylon under torsion, but a metal one is proving hard to source. The nylon hinges should do for now. Flex at the hinge makes it easy to pivot in the seat to square up in different directions, actually a real dynamic feel I think this will help in using a rifle from the seat.

Bonus
I have been trying to make my mystery ranch mule bag work on my k3 frame for awhile now. By shortening the side straps and putting some double sided Velcro on them, I can get the lower ones to sit underneath the shoulder strap Velcro, which holds the sides in snug to the frame.

Some g hooks on the load shelf and top straps made the rest of the attachments adjustable and pretty easy to take on and off.

One of the things I'm still figuring is the k3 bag straps and how to make them work with other, non exo bags. I'm leaning towards just adding some slide stops to the k3 bag and eliminating the clickers, which would make the whole thing a little less cluttered, but don't wanna make that decision till I'm sure it will be functional. For now I've got some repair buckles holding the upper and lower frame straps to the mule bag. The sea to summit 1 inchers actually click into the exo female clickers good enough to run with for awhile.This makes a nice amount of room for my turkey hunting stuff and give me the option to carry something large in or out of the woods with some adjusting.


This pack along with my fhf chest rig should be a cool, flexible combo for turkey hunting this season. Stoked to get outside and try it out.

 

[CMF]

Thanks for posting up the final result. I've considered doing something similar. I like getting the most of the gear I have and not having something special for every scenario.
I use my k3 for hauling my climber and ground blinds during deer season here in MS.
So far for turkey I've just used it to haul around the turkey chair I have, but I'd like to get rid of it.

 

[Dos Perros]

So, I've been messing around in the shop last few weeks putting this together.

I used some thick kydex and created a backer plate that wraps around the top of the k3 frame. Secured some pole hinges I found at a marine supply place with 1/4"-20 screws and t-nutz through some tabs that I folded over around the frame.

2" adhesive backed Velcro on either side of the kydex frame makes a landing for the Velcro on the k3 flap that would normally marry to itself.

Costco carbon fiber trekking poles with the ends cut off gave me just enough length to clear the bottom of the pack. Bonus here is I can unscrew the hinge with my Leatherman and use the trekking poles if I choose, as they're still long enough my preference. I had to sand the hinge nubbins down a little to get them to press fit. I'll add some epoxy to secure the pole half of the hinge, once I find the right adhesive.

Sourced a super padded seat from my alpz turkey vest and was able to thread the Velcro straps through the sliders on the bottom of the pack easy enough. Some shock cord tied to the pad buckles and cord locks zip tied to the frame make for an adjustable retention for the seat when it's flipped back. I messed around with some magnets to hold the seat up, but will wait till I get some field time in the setup to see if I don't like the shock cord.

The whole thing is pretty comfortable when seated, and the seat folds up and down easily without having to adjust the cords. It won't stay put if I'm not using the seat pad. Sitting on it crates an anchor for the whole system.
I can adjust the pole length clips easy enough by just reaching back and one handing it, but am a little worried that one of the clips will come undone and I'll lose a pole section in the brush somewhere, but whatever for now.
There's some flex of the poles at the hinge, which makes me question the strength of the nylon under torsion, but a metal one is proving hard to source. The nylon hinges should do for now. Flex at the hinge makes it easy to pivot in the seat to square up in different directions, actually a real dynamic feel I think this will help in using a rifle from the seat.

Bonus
I have been trying to make my mystery ranch mule bag work on my k3 frame for awhile now. By shortening the side straps and putting some double sided Velcro on them, I can get the lower ones to sit underneath the shoulder strap Velcro, which holds the sides in snug to the frame.

Some g hooks on the load shelf and top straps made the rest of the attachments adjustable and pretty easy to take on and off.

One of the things I'm still figuring is the k3 bag straps and how to make them work with other, non exo bags. I'm leaning towards just adding some slide stops to the k3 bag and eliminating the clickers, which would make the whole thing a little less cluttered, but don't wanna make that decision till I'm sure it will be functional. For now I've got some repair buckles holding the upper and lower frame straps to the mule bag. The sea to summit 1 inchers actually click into the exo female clickers good enough to run with for awhile.This makes a nice amount of room for my turkey hunting stuff and give me the option to carry something large in or out of the woods with some adjusting.


This pack along with my fhf chest rig should be a cool, flexible combo for turkey hunting this season. Stoked to get outside and try it out.

"Jesus Christ, that's Jason Bourne!"

Well done, awesome solution.

 

[Bendejo]

I've used the pack for a weeklong turkey trip, and plan to use it on another trip next week. Had an issue with the carbon poles blowing out so went to an aluminum pole set, which allowed me to put a set screw into the hinge nubbins.
Seat is pretty comfortable for a few hours. It was great being able to set up behind some cover and chill out .I ended up coming out of the shoulder straps for extended sits, which makes shouldering the gun and moving a bit more easy.
I removed the waist belt for this trip because I don't think it's needed for the weight im carrying. Additionally,I don't need much stuff on the belt either because of the storage in my cargo pants and chest pack. That kept the whole thing more streamlined, shotgun carried better on a sling , less rattle etc.
1 big and 1 small decoy, camo net sheet and my dayhunt stuff fit a little snug in the mule bag. I think it'll have more room later in the season (nowish), because I probably won't need the puffy in the am, and probably onlyb1 or no decoys.
I'll post some more pics after my next outing with it.

 

[CMF]

Nice! I might do this on my exo frame for turkey and small game hunting.
Never messed with kydex, how is it to deal with, need any special tools?

 

[Bendejo]

It's real easy to mold. For holster size pressings, I'd put it in the oven on 300 for a minute, but on this one I used a heat gun and just bent it around the frame. I make cuts with a hack or band saw, and finish the edges with sandpaper or a wire wheel.
I'll post the components and kyd3x thickness if you're interested.