Accurate fixed blade broadheads

[JNDEER]

1” tooth of the arrow.
Wac’em 3 blade broadhead

Any smaller profile 1” type Broadheads will fly better for most average shooters in most conditions then a broadhead thats bigger than 1”.

 

[Beendare]

A Fixed BH not flying is Operator error.

In 4 decades of bowhunting, I've never found a fixed head that doesn't shoot with FP's.

1) I shoot a spine size higher,
2) I align my BH's- spin check on a straightener
3) I either bare shaft tune or shoot BH for groups against FP's at longer range to tune for perfect flight

Never had a problem with BH's after doing that.

 

[Smtn10pt]

Take it for what its worth and how it was tested, but the ballistics arrow study that was conducted this last year mentioned quite a few heads that grouped really well out of a shooting machine. I would start there and see what broadhead peaks your interest. I've always had good lucks with slick tricks and QAD Exodus.

The Arrow Ballistics Study Results

Explore the findings of our Arrow Ballistics Study and uncover the best vane shapes for optimal arrow flight.

westernhunter.net

Arrow ballistics study results....Only thing missing is the broadhead accuracy part, which is what matters the most.

 

[Wilderlife]

I recently re-tuned my compound bow for a new arrow recipe. I was shooting bulletholes through paper with fletched arrows and then my broadheads were a few inches to the right of my field points at 20m, so I ended up going somewhere around 40 clicks to the right total. It sounds like a lot but it's really not that much adjustment on a Hamskea Epsilon.

I shot a Terra Firma Gladius and Terra Firma Venator at 40 metres and hit within about a golf ball size, and my field points hit the same spot. I'll work on things a bit more as the rut comes clsoer as the chance of a slightly longer shot at a red stag is high, but for most of my hunting, shots are inside 35 metres (usually inside 30 metres) so I don't typically shoot my broadheads past about 40 metres anyway.

I'm keen to get one of the new Hoyts whenever I can be bothered to spend the money, because I like the idea of being able to do some broadhead tuning by moving the limbs a bit.

 

[5MilesBack]

When you say your nock tuning them the same that means your compressing them to find the weak side, and then orienting your nock so the weak side is leaving the bow the same way on every arrow right?

No. If I have arrows that don't group with the rest of them, in almost every case they're missing left or right. So I'll shoot every FP arrow at a verticle line. Those that don't hit the line I'll turn the arrow while it's on the string. With a 3-fletch arrow I'll have three options for arrow orientation, 4-fletch will be four options. I'll turn those arrows until they hit the line like the others. If they still won't hit the line, I'll change the nock and start over. If that doesn't work, those arrows go in a destruction bin. I'll use them for BH durability testing etc. But I rarely can't get an arrow to work.

I have never bare shaft tuned any arrows, but what are you doing for bh tuning after those two steps?

I have a few different BH's that I use for BH tuning. I'll shoot one at a spot at 60 yards and then shoot one of the FP arrows. I'll adjust as needed tuning-wise depending on where the two are hitting in relation to each other. But after BS tuning, especially at 40 yards any adjustments are very small.

Because, atleast with the muzzy’s, I’d randomly get arrows that at 60 yards would hit left or right 6 inches so I was stuck doing it with every arrow. Which is time consuming, and really chews up the target running that many bh’s through it each year.

Some of the earlier steps should help eliminate BH's hitting both left and right of FP's with different arrows. Also, make sure your BH's are spinning perfectly true on each arrow.

 

[Insomnia]

QAD, micro hades, evolution Jekyll, Iron Will, Cutthroat are all super accurate. The first two are the most budget.

 

[KevinClimbs]

I've practiced with way more heads than I've hunted with but here are a few that generally shot well (or tuned easily) for me: QAD Exodus, Iron Will Vented (both standard and wide), Slick trick standard.

 

[kcm2]

Ramcat Hydroshock with the pivoting blades flies and penetrates well. Just loctite in the tiny screws.

 

[jimh406]

I don't know if these will work for your arrows or not. Maybe you already use this approach.

I've used Bear Razorheads. Once it is screwed in, heat the insert to loosen the insert glue. Then, turn it to an indexed position. Then, rotate to make sure there isn't any wobble in it. Depending on the glue, you might have to pull the insert and/or replace the insert with a new one to accomplish this alignment.

Btw, I wound do this with any broadhead you switch to.

 

[Tilzbow]

I’m looking to switch my fixed blade broadheads, and wondering which ones you guys have found to fly most like your field tips without spending a bunch of time tuning each arrow?
I used muzzy 3 blades for a number of years, they work great if they hit their mark but don’t fly well and each arrow has to be tuned to each broadhead. I recently switched to shuttle t’s and they fly pretty good, but I don’t love them.
Ideally I’d like to find something I can screw into an insert, glue it into my arrows with the blades lined up with the vanes and know that it’s going to fly straight. Without having to shoot each individual arrow and broad head together.

Why are you trying to align the blades and vanes? It makes zero difference as far as accuracy. Absolutely zero.

It can help load a quiver and keep the vanes from touching if your quiver is pre-cut and broadheads can only be inserted one way. But as far as accuracy, no difference.