‘94 f250 leaf spring mount replacement

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Hey guys, does anybody have experience changing the rear leaf spring mounts on a f250? The front mounts are rotted pretty good on both sides of my farm truck and I’m hesitant to load anything heavy until they’re swapped. Any process guidance would be appreciated. Thank you in advance!
 

rtrevith

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My dad and I replaced them on a '94 F150 at one point. The original brackets were riveted to the frame and we had to drill out the rivets and replace with bolts.
 
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jjohnsonElknewbie
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My dad and I replaced them on a '94 F150 at one point. The original brackets were riveted to the frame and we had to drill out the rivets and replace with bolts.
I haven't crawled underneath yet, but that was one thing I was wondering/afraid of... Thanks for the head's up
 
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How's the frame? Is it rotted also?

This.. The ole hammer test can tell you how bad it is, but its highly possible to still have a good frame. If the suspension has never been replaced, expect to use a torch and break some stuff. Hope you have a welder cuz you might need one. Buy new Ubolts since you gotta take those off anyway but don't take them off till you check out the frame mount bolt and shackle bolt and get them off first

If it ain't rusted shut then it's an easy job. You'll likely need a long breaker bar. 1/2 or 3/4" drive . A 3/8 drive socket will likely snap with the amount of torque you'll need to apply
 
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jjohnsonElknewbie
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I just crawled underneath, and other than knocking off some surface scale, the frame is solid all the way around front to back. The truck only has around 150k miles, and has the 460 and 5 speed. Previous owner had a pickup camper at one point, and he installed air bags on back to help with the weight. She'll knock your teeth out empty, but with a modest to heavy load she cruises smooth as glass down the highway.

I'll start looking for replacements, and hopefully there are some good ones made in the USA available.
 

BigK421

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I also don't drill the rivets unless I need to. I take a cutoff wheel and cut a slot in the rivet head and then take an airhammer with a sharp flat chisel bit to drive off rivet head. Switch to pointed chisel bit and drive rivet out of frame.
 
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jjohnsonElknewbie
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I also don't drill the rivets unless I need to. I take a cutoff wheel and cut a slot in the rivet head and then take an airhammer with a sharp flat chisel bit to drive off rivet head. Switch to pointed chisel bit and drive rivet out of frame.
Just watched several videos and some guys also grind the rivets flat and hammer/punch them out. Is there an advantage either way? I have a compressor, but I don't have an air hammer is why I'm asking...

EDIT: air hammers are pretty cheap and I'll probably go this route. I'm not a huge fan of the prospect of that many sparks near the gas tank. I know for a fact my front tank leaks, so there's that. LOL!
 

BigK421

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Just watched several videos and some guys also grind the rivets flat and hammer/punch them out. Is there an advantage either way? I have a compressor, but I don't have an air hammer is why I'm asking...

EDIT: air hammers are pretty cheap and I'll probably go this route. I'm not a huge fan of the prospect of that many sparks near the gas tank. I know for a fact my front tank leaks, so there's that. LOL!
I can remove them faster with a cutoff wheel and airhammer versus drilling. I use a diamond edge cutoff wheel so it makes less sparks then a conventional cutoff wheel.
 

Iowafarmer

Lil-Rokslider
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Jan 5, 2023
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Yeah changed em on my “97” f350 no big deal cutting torch is nice to have. They’re available aftermarket in the internet new ones just bolt in
 

dietridg

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It's pretty common on old fords. I agree on not drilling them and using grinder or cut off wheel. I remove the bed and do them all at once. The replacement are cheap and bolt right up.
 
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jjohnsonElknewbie
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I took another look today, and the rear hangers were already replaced at some point as they're bolted on now. The fronts still have rivets though and I'm picking up and air hammer today. Thanks fellas!
 
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