All-
Having recently joined the esteemed ranks of Rokslide’s Mod crew, I wanted to share with the Slide how I do rifle builds.
I’m going to detail the steps I take from component selection all the way through load development and the final accuracy test for a rifle.
Why? Very few factory rifles do what I want them to. Weight, length, accuracy, accessories are all variables that I define for my specific application.
Price. Long range shooting, custom actions, western hunting-is any hobby really cheap? Hell no. I do however save money overall by procuring the exact components I want, versus buying a complete custom rifle. I have several “custom” rifles that are every bit accurate as a “full custom” for about half the price-which isn’t far off from factory rifle prices in some cases.
With the right components, a tried and true gunsmith, precise handloads, and solid shooting fundamentals, extreme accuracy is not only attainable but my expectation. I’m after ½ MOA or better. I will outline MY way, this is not to say it’s the only way, nor I am here to argue with or against your way.
Do I have a $300 savage axis that shoots ½ MOA? Yes I do. Do I own tikkas? Yes. Full customs that cost upwards of $6k-yes again.
This rifle builds’ purpose is light, short and accurate for backpack mountain hunts. This is not for plinking or stand hunting. ONLY YOU can define what is worth it to you. We have all heard the example on how a vehicle gets you point A to B. Whether it is a beater or a Ferrari is what YOU get to define based on what you value and dedicate to it.
I will touch on shooter ability. About the only truth generally agreeable is that most will never outshoot a rifle. From there, the discussion gets varied. My viewpoints will be directly related to my background, training and experience. I have been involved in long range precision and military and law enforcement sniping for almost 2 decades. I have been fortunate to have had excellent training, near unlimited round counts, and real-world deployments where the success/failure rate was not simply a hit/miss on an animal, but could prove fatal. I mention this because for some, an expensive rifle may not be necessary. My 10-year-old doesn’t need a $15k mountain bike for riding around the yard. If your skills and application don’t match, a sub $500 factory rifle may be a better fit.
Step 1 is defining the goal and purpose of the build.
LIGHT. EXTREME ACCURACY. MANUEVERABLE. DURABLE.
Notice above, I stated “light”. I did not say ULTRALIGHT. I will sacrifice weight for accuracy, durability and proven performers.
½ MOA is the goal for accuracy.
Barrel length selected is 21” for that sweet spot of muzzle velocity and maneuverability.
Durability is a factor for every component. More on this later.
The action I selected is the Kelbly Nanook. I have several rifles with Kelbly’s action, and quite frankly they are among my top performing rifles. The M40A3 that was custom built at Quantico by USMC 2112 armorers doesn’t come close-and that is a precision rifle.
This rifle will utilize an XLR magnesium chassis. I have several chassis rifles, and XLR has dialed this in to near perfection.
The barrel I selected is from Preferred Barrel Blanks. The process they utilize along with the extreme tolerances they select is what made my choice.
Optic-TBD
Trigger-TBD
Ammunition-Unknown munitions will be working up the loads on this one. Although I enjoy handloading, after speaking with Jake at UM, this is an easy call for me.
**This thread will remain locked to keep it clean throughout the build process.
Here is a link for the discussion thread on this RRB.
rokslide.com
Having recently joined the esteemed ranks of Rokslide’s Mod crew, I wanted to share with the Slide how I do rifle builds.
I’m going to detail the steps I take from component selection all the way through load development and the final accuracy test for a rifle.
Why? Very few factory rifles do what I want them to. Weight, length, accuracy, accessories are all variables that I define for my specific application.
Price. Long range shooting, custom actions, western hunting-is any hobby really cheap? Hell no. I do however save money overall by procuring the exact components I want, versus buying a complete custom rifle. I have several “custom” rifles that are every bit accurate as a “full custom” for about half the price-which isn’t far off from factory rifle prices in some cases.
With the right components, a tried and true gunsmith, precise handloads, and solid shooting fundamentals, extreme accuracy is not only attainable but my expectation. I’m after ½ MOA or better. I will outline MY way, this is not to say it’s the only way, nor I am here to argue with or against your way.
Do I have a $300 savage axis that shoots ½ MOA? Yes I do. Do I own tikkas? Yes. Full customs that cost upwards of $6k-yes again.
This rifle builds’ purpose is light, short and accurate for backpack mountain hunts. This is not for plinking or stand hunting. ONLY YOU can define what is worth it to you. We have all heard the example on how a vehicle gets you point A to B. Whether it is a beater or a Ferrari is what YOU get to define based on what you value and dedicate to it.
I will touch on shooter ability. About the only truth generally agreeable is that most will never outshoot a rifle. From there, the discussion gets varied. My viewpoints will be directly related to my background, training and experience. I have been involved in long range precision and military and law enforcement sniping for almost 2 decades. I have been fortunate to have had excellent training, near unlimited round counts, and real-world deployments where the success/failure rate was not simply a hit/miss on an animal, but could prove fatal. I mention this because for some, an expensive rifle may not be necessary. My 10-year-old doesn’t need a $15k mountain bike for riding around the yard. If your skills and application don’t match, a sub $500 factory rifle may be a better fit.
Step 1 is defining the goal and purpose of the build.
LIGHT. EXTREME ACCURACY. MANUEVERABLE. DURABLE.
Notice above, I stated “light”. I did not say ULTRALIGHT. I will sacrifice weight for accuracy, durability and proven performers.
½ MOA is the goal for accuracy.
Barrel length selected is 21” for that sweet spot of muzzle velocity and maneuverability.
Durability is a factor for every component. More on this later.
The action I selected is the Kelbly Nanook. I have several rifles with Kelbly’s action, and quite frankly they are among my top performing rifles. The M40A3 that was custom built at Quantico by USMC 2112 armorers doesn’t come close-and that is a precision rifle.
This rifle will utilize an XLR magnesium chassis. I have several chassis rifles, and XLR has dialed this in to near perfection.
The barrel I selected is from Preferred Barrel Blanks. The process they utilize along with the extreme tolerances they select is what made my choice.
Optic-TBD
Trigger-TBD
Ammunition-Unknown munitions will be working up the loads on this one. Although I enjoy handloading, after speaking with Jake at UM, this is an easy call for me.
**This thread will remain locked to keep it clean throughout the build process.
Here is a link for the discussion thread on this RRB.
7mm PRC RRB discussion
Post your thoughts, ideas and recommendations for this build here. https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/7mm-prc-rokslide-rifle-build.291500/
rokslide.com
